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Yea Richard.... I kinda suspected I might be acid poor soon LOL. If I am looking at a CSI of -0.59 vs say something like -0.35, am I going to see a radical difference or am I looking at more of a long term difference (in years) I just want to make sure I am consistently pulling calcium off...

I was trying to keep the CSI the lowest it could be without exceeding -0.6 to descale a bit. I've been riding at -0.59 with the PH at 7.3

22000 Gallons Grey Plaster (Calcified pretty bad) FC 3.0 CC 0 TA 60 PH 7.2 CH 160 CYA Less than 30 (Taylor kit doesn't go that low) Guessing it's at 10 or so Borates 50 BBB Method here but using pucks to bring CYA up to 30-50 range Currently to keep Ph at 7.2-7.4 range I am consuming 1 Quart...

http://www.mcgrayel.com/scaletecplus.html Stain and scale remover.... works pretty good with calcium :party:

Ok so...... love borates.... love scaletec...... any reason they shouldn't be used together????? Pool FC 4 TA 120 PH 7.2 CH 120 Temp 75F

12" Bond beam, min 3" coverage on steel, 9-10" coves. Typical in Cali....

BBB method Will clean filter Friday.... Its really not that dirty but can't hurt.

BBB method Scale was formed from prolonged high TA and PH All of a sudden was overnight.... F

So the answer to my question is???? To little FC? I used the polyq as a preventative measure because i was running a lower FC to avoid fighting with the sequestering agent. If the cloudyness pre algae then I'll up the FC. If its Calcium then I'm fine with it... It's what I want. F

That is called "Mastic" or "Dec O Seal" It is a 2 part epozy. Use silica sand to fill the voids up to about 1/4" then top... F

Well the most important part is prep. what kind of finish is it? F

ooo forgot to say I run a lil polyq 60 to keep Chlorine on the min side

the 7.0 is intentional. Slow steady cleanup of calcium scale. I usually run 7.2 but dipped a bit. F

Bah!!! CC is .5 TC is 5.0

Cloudy Water BBB method FC 4.5 CC 5.0 PH 7.0 TA 50 B 50 CYA 70 CH 200 All of the sudden it went a little milky. Will clean the Quad DE 80 filter this weekend. I did add a treatment of stain and scale 3 weeks ago. Maybe it just started to work? :arrow:

Could also be a salt sensor, but my vote goes to temp sender.

A variable speed is worth the money if you want to be able to run a salt system or a heater on a lower speed. The 2 speed pumps low speed will not satisfy the flow switches on them. I sell both the 2 speed pumps and the VS pumps to my customers and have had a huge amount of warranty calls on...

I would ask the person who sold me the heater and pump together knowing that the heater couldn't be utilized on low. A VS pump is prob the best option to use the heater without a high speed. This same thing happens with SWG.

Re: Heate Pump will not turn on when pump is on low speed most heater pressure switches wont allow them to fire with a 2 speed pump on low. This is why a VS pump is so nice....

If its bonded to the motor it is in effect attached to the ground bus...

little tiny filter?

The pipe itself has nothing to do with the "drain cover". A crooked pipe will not show if the cover is plastered in straight.

Probably ran the pump dry and have a leaky nipple. Try placing something like a wet towel over the threads on the suction side of the pump to pull prime. You should feel a little suction at the threads and hear the "air" stop. Just one possibility.

Your system is manufactured by A&A manufacturing. If you are the original owner of the pool they have a lifetime warranty. If not you can purchase them as well. http://www.aamfg.com/

Dirty filter most likely... If not that, the water valve needs attention.

:hammer: Lol yeah Cc is 1. Me and math.

Just got a Taylor FAS DPD. It goes down to 7.0 so I'll prob hover there or a tic higher so I dont have to bypass the heater. Any thoughts on something to help? Caltreat or ???

oh and High TA too. finally getting serious before I ruin my plaster... F

got the scale from 8.4 ph all winter LOL LAzy me.... I thought the caltreat was touted as good stuff?

Forgot to add CSI is -.80 ATM...