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Apologies, I shoulda have mentioned that the heater isn't running (done for the season) and there's no bypass, so that water is constantly passing through the heat exchanger......which is why I mentioned the current 50F water temp

Thanks Texas......yes, the heater core/element is the primary focus of my concern and reason I am following CSI (was recommended to use Orenda app and balance to LSI numbers), but most folks here stated they follow CSI, so I will to. Originally (and most of this season) I had a CH of 25 (I never...

Paying more attention to CSI now after Jandy JXI heater installed, and per heater installer recommendation to balance the water consistently. So, up to this point all has been good and I have track CSI turned on in Pool Math app. Temperature of pool dropped quite a bit the last week and half or...

Meant to post these numbers earlier this morning and also thank everybody for the help. All looks good....but FC and pH both went up. I boosted the pump speed overnight to help it mix the 45lbs of calcium that I put in yesterday evening (mixed in bucket).....and I'm thinking the FC went up...

Thanks ajw....plugging in my numbers into Pool Math for CSI shows a CH of 200 would put me at -0.46 and CH of 300 would put me at -0.29

Should add, that the installer suggested bringing CH up to 400. Plugging that number into Pool Math brings CSI from -1.22 to -0.03, in range. In the Orenda app, taking CH to 400 brings LSI from -1.30 to -0.18. So I think this is pretty conclusive that on my current numbers adjusting the CH to a...

Just had a Jandy JXI 400 propane heater installed yesterday (didn't expect to be able to do a heater this season, but one was available and installer had an opening.....plumbed and electric hook-up yesterday), working on propane hook-up. Installer was discussing LSI with me and impact on the...

Just an update...it does look like the swcg is working, but I’ve been running it at 8hrs overnight in order to reach a FC of 4 or so. Still also getting a CC of 1 each morning. pH has been high throughout this whole time at about 8.0. I brought that down to pH 7.5 yesterday with some muriatic...

Looks like I'll be calling support today. Topped off the salt level yesterday from 2200ppm to 2500ppm and ran it for another 8 hours last night.....drop tested this morning at barely 1 FC.

That's pretty interesting to hear and good to note. I actually did mine a little differently initial operation, which may be the root cause. I actually got it setup and immediately went into heater mode to get the temp up to 102, which did take about 36 hrs. It really wasn't until then, or that...

So that hits two points I'm looking for opinions on....1) should CYA be in a spa 2)Is bleach safe to use for quick FC increase in a spa (in the right quantity of course)?

Here's numbers I just took (note FC has dropped from 1.5 at 7:30am to 1.0 at 10:00am...done with TF100 drop test). pH 8.0 FC 1 CC .5 (don't know if . numbers are valid, but with reagent it did turn back slightly pink, 1 drop to go back to clear) TA 50 CH 25 Water temp 100

I've read through most of the previous threads on spa water care, but not finding the exact answer I'm looking for, hoping someone can comment from experience. I have a new Intex PureSpa with built in SWCG, that I'm working on developing the right water care regimen for. This model has the built...

That's what I was looking for....I will work to bring CYA up, and then work FC from the chart at that new CYA level. As far as CSI, we don't have a heater. We will have stamped concrete cantilevered coping (not sure if that's of concern for keeping CH in proper range). I have been curious if I...

Realize I didn't "post numbers below"....here they are: FC 5 CC 0 pH 7.6 TA 60 CH 25 CYA 40'ish, maybe a little lower

Suggestions/advice needed. I have read through many of the previous CYA/FC discussions, but still haven't been able to determine what level I should put CYA at, so figured one more CYA/FC thread can't hurt....;). My numbers as of this morning are below. The CYA level is a bit of an art to get...

Their site is having an issue present a web page when clicked, but this hit implies it's rated for 25K gallons So, any additional opinions on running pump 24/7 with programmed speeds throughout the day, through swimming season until shutdown for winter? Obviously pump longevity is to be...

I'm thinking the P/N CLG525A-020 is indicating the rating, but haven't been able to decipher it yet on any Google hits

Guess that should have been proper referenced as 120v

I am definitely not against running the VS pump 24/7 until closing in fall. That's the main reason I spent the extra to get the VS......I know it's only aesthetic, but I personally like having the water moving......completely non-essential, but part of what I'm looking forward to enjoying with...

Before deciding to post this, I did spend quite a bit of time reviewing old threads and I believe I know what I need to do. But I did want to post this question just to see if anything had changed/advanced in the SWCG/VS pump wiring/relay options since the latest 2018/2019 threads that I've...

Wanted to report back that clarifier was what it finally needed. I went conservative and only started with 3 oz for our 26000 gal. 24 hours later and water is crystal clear!!!! It definitely was suspended silt that was just passing through our sand filter. Backwashed the bad stuff out of the...

Yep, sand filter (added to sig).

Okay, so after another day of letting everything settle (last addition was muriatic acid yesterday morning to pull down pH' to 7.5)....still very very cloudy. I can make out the drains at the bottom only when the sun is on it, but it hasn't changed any since yesterday....meaning the pH being...

Update: So I did the FC ramp up, pump off 24 hour settle. Some of the dirt did fall out, but it was minimal from what it had been. Still couldn't see the drains in the deep in, same thick dull cloudiness. So today, after validating pH was still high (this morning it was somwhere above 8.2...

So yes, the TA test was done with 25 ml. CH is 25 (all testing done with TF100 kit per their instructions). The Borax 20 Mule add was to get pH up, but it went way high (assuming this was because my TA at that time was really low). So based on that...before doing anything else drastic...

Good news with OCLT....FC was 5.5 at 9:30pm last night and 5.5 at 7:15am this morning. So the question is the cloudiness. I suppose it all could be suspended silt/dirt. I've had the pump/filter running since Tuesday and I have backwashed it twice and could see a good amount of red dirt being...

I do see settling on the steps, its the red clay silt/dirt that settles. With filter, I did do a backwash yesterday and it was really really dirty (red clay) water coming out a good amount too.