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I didn't want to spend the extra money without good reason, so thanks for your response.

My pool is 38,000 gallons and I was wondering if I should go with the SC48 or the SC60? I do run my pool pump 24x7 at a low speed. Ideally, 27 GPM to give me one turnover per day. Can anyone with autopilot experience advise if I should right size or go a little larger than needed? Thank you,

I was very close to getting an AutoPilot but thought I would try the cheap route first and see how much I would be spending on water refreshes. My concern about the salt chlorinators is the same as the 320; my pump speed. I am currently at 45gpm (I run my pump 24x7 with the theory that long...

Thanks, I will try it with air in the canister. Maybe having the canister full of water reduces the aggitation of the water and tablets. I am running at 45gpm in 2 inch pipe which is 4.6 fps but I am not getting alot of chlorine production. If that doesn't work I will try 1 inch tablets.

Should the canister be allowed to fill with water or should there just be water on the lowest couple of tabs? To fill the canister, I must allow the water to rise before I put the lid in place. I am not happy with the chlorine output I am getting so far. I run a low pressure plumbing system...

I read that 1 pound of dry acid = 10 ounces of MA, so I won't be doing that. I use 1 gallon of acid per week. So with MA more dense than water, is the issue is that the MA sits at the bottom while the water without MA is taken off the top? I thought MA mixed into water dispersed itself evenly...

Somebody must have tried this already. I have stopped using LQ for chlorine. I was wondering if it could be used to delivery muratic acid.

EQArtimus, I live about 5 miles west of Buda and have used the LQ for about three years. I am about to convert; probably trying tabs first. If the cost of partial drain/refill to control CYA is excessive I may switch to SWG. Heck, my salt level is already 2900 from all the bleach I have been...

Jason, For the autopilot is the amount of chlorine produced controlled by setting a level on the controller (5 ppm) OR is the chlorine output controlled by the combination of the percentage setting and pump run time? Do you still use the acid pump even though you disabled the ph/orp sensor?

I will definitely shock - I have only done it once and that was over a year ago. I have four lights and four drain covers so removing them all would be a chore.

I have some green spots on the lights and drain covers which scrub off. Looks like algae but I have no CC. FC is available. Is it possible to have algae with no CC? FC 3.0 CC 0.0 pH 7.4 TA 60 CYA 30 CH 960 PH rise is a constant problem but I do have a large water feature that aerates.

thank you, I think I will leave my TA at 70 and add borates in the next couple of weeks. I removed everything from my Liquidator lines; check valves, control valve and flow indicator. I finally seem to have enough flow to keep my FC up and its easier to clean. I just adjust FC using pump...

It was suggested that I raise my TA from 70 to 100 to help with constantly rising PH. However, I then read on the forum that higher TA only helps control falling PH but doesn't help stabilize rising PH. I use 85 ounces of MA per week. I want to get the TA ironed out so I can add borates...

The water looks clear. I will need a week to keep an eye on the PH. Can I go ahead with the borates or should I wait until I am satisfied with TA? I added CYA yesterday but the test results didn't change much. I think I had less CYA than I originally thought. I am going to bump it another...

I have my made some adjustments and I am about to add borates as well. I wanted to ask about the TA recommendation of 100. 70 to 90 seems to be the normal range for plaster pools. What would higher TA provide to help me retain FC or stabilize my PH from rising? FC 5.5 CC 0 TA 70 PH 7.4 CH...

I will raise TA and CYA but how much should I lower CH? We are under water restrictions and that is going to be a tough one to pull off. Here is an older pic - I will try to get some newer ones including the equipment pad. http://s371.photobucket.com/albums/oo15 ... t=pool.jpg Thanks.

I have been having trouble getting FC with the Liquidator. I run the Intelliflo VF at 50 gpm 24x7 and this doesn't produce enough flow through the LQ. I am looking at adjustments now. I am also adding 60 ounces of MA twice a week. I was wondering the following. Should I raise TA? Should I...

yes, its somewhat rough not smooth like the walls which are mostly undamaged - it looks like small pits/holes in the plaster Would high PH cause this? I thought only low PH caused this effect. thanks,

I don't use anything that is granular. Liquid Bleach with Liquidator. CYA was liquid form. Only sand or dirt blown into the pool would be granular and I don't fertilize or anything similar.

This problem seemed to sneak up on me quickly. Its 6 month old grey plaster. I have let the PH get high a few times but I can't believe enough times to cause this level of damage. Here are links to the pictures. http://i371.photobucket.com/albums/oo152/jollyroger31/2009_02_02_misc019.jpg...

Thanks, Better late than never! I have kept mine off as well; it just ruins the look of the pool. Water temp here is about 50. Not much better than 40 but March and 90 degree weather is just around the corner. carlos

I have a new Aquabot Pool Rover Plus from Costco. I generally like its performance although its weak when using the fine filter bag. The reason I selected this model was its reasonable price, for a robot, and it can't climb my steps or walls. This was important for me because if it gets into...

I said I would post a picture so hopefully here it is. It's an older one but you get the idea. http://s371.photobucket.com/albums/oo152/jollyroger31/?action=view&current=pool.jpg carlos

Well, I still don't have the pictures, but I did fix the autofill. Dug out a hole big enough to get under the deck and found that I dry fit the pipe but must have forgotton to glue it. :oops: The good news is that makes for an easy fix. Everything working now; except my camera.

Well my FC was 8 this morning with CC = 0 so the LQ is working well with my indicator bouncing between 0 and 1. I should also mention I am using the 10% bleach from HD and running my pump 24x7, so high flow may not necessary for my application. My gauges are working. In addition to the...

Is there a minimum pressure required for a DE filter? I am running very low pressure with my Quad DE100. The filter gauge usually reads 0 - 3 psi. I know water is flowing because I see the check valve open and the flow meter indicating 35 to 45 gpm. However, is this a problem for the filter...

Yes, its definitely a lack of pressure. It resolves as I increase pressure by closing down my master return valve. I wonder why the instructions have that line after the filter? I should get higher pressure placing the line before the filter. Has anyone tried this? TizMe, there are many...

I installed the Liquidator along with all of Rabbit's modifications. The larger tubes, check valves, etc. The suction side is plugged into the drain plug under the basket of an Intelliflo 4x160. The pressure side is installed into a barb located after the filter and filter bypass valve...

got it. keep it simple. I am making it too complicated. thanks,

I need a vacuum that can handle the fine dust/dirt which collects at the bottom of my pool. leaves are not a big deal for me. It must have an option switch to stay on the floor. I don't care if its suction side, pressure, robot, dust fairy, anything! It needs to last for a couple years...