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Darn your right!! LOL I forgot the R0013 :oops: Just retested and got a read of 45..kinda overcast outside

Thanks Jason..I actually tried that but I didnt get any reading that way..filled the tube all the way up

Just tested my water today and CYA was about 90-100 using the TF100 kit..From reading pool school, levels should be 80 for a SWP..Should I be worried about the elevated levels ? my FC is at 8ppm, ph 7.3, TA 80..Thanks!

:mrgreen: Im gonna try and store the cord laid out straight instead of coiled up to see if that helps..the thing really does work great!

Thanks for the advice..I did everything you said but I do remember raising the hose out of the water to connect it to the skimmer..Ill have to give it another try and pay more attention..I got a rover jr and the only issue so far with that is keeping the cord straight.

Just got mine and it really cleans great..MUCH better than the Pentair Lil Shark I have..I cant seem to keep the cord straight either..I have switched the pins and starightened the cord out before putting it away and it still gets all balled up..Im going to try and store it with the cord lying...

Had one for two weeks and am really disappointed..When its moving it does a good job of sucking up fine sand/dirt however it only works for a short time and then just stops moving..Ive tried different lenghts for the hose as well as changing the settings and still the same.It will just stop cold...

Gotcha..I will keep raising the level..no sense in shortening the cell life for no reason.

Thanks for the reply..I just put in a swg (intellichlor) for my AG and my pool gets 100% direct sun every day..not an ounce of shade. I've always kept my cya levels around 30-40 but that was when I was using the tabs with added stabilizer. I've raised it to about 40 so far and everything has...

Just wondering why swg's recquire/work better with higher levels of cya?

Yea I agree..every inspector is different..I tried to get away with the single point but he handed me the code and highlighted where it said "4" points...lol...guess that was my subtle hint :-D

The wall is definitely the best but I was told I needed to be connected at 4 points so if I did the single lug only I would have failed.

My pool is all resin as well and I was told I needed to bond it. Since there is a layer of sand that the liner sits on you can drill a small hole through the metal wall without damaging the liner. I dug under the plastic track until I could feel the back of the metal wall and got a bonding lug...

I just went through the same thing. Had a new AG pool installed a few weeks ago. I did the electrical myself and according to the 2008 NEC code, I had to run a #8 copper wire all the way around the pool and it needed to connect to 4 different points around the pool. Then I had to install a metal...

That looks great! I want to do the same with my pool (not Intex) but I havent been able to find a fitting for my skimmer..Its all molded as one piece.

Great...Thanks!

Yea I think you may be right..they had issues at a freinds pool so I dont know how he was taking care of it. So if I understand correctly, FC is not the cause of skin irritations, red eye, etc and the saltwater basically softens the water. The chloromines are the culprit.

Thanks guys..Funny thing is I started questioning him after reading pool school!! LOL...The thing that threw me a bit was when he said if the chlorine is kept at levels like a regular chlorine pool than I wont be getting the benefit of the salt..My kids have a slight allergy to chlorine so thats...

Hi Guys..just got a Pentair IC40 installed. 24X52 AG round pool. My dealer is giving me some info that honestly doesn't make sense to me. He is telling me that I should have very low FC readings on a daily basis..he said that it should be kept at .5-1 ??? :?: I questioned him and he said if I...