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Re: Yet another priming issue with Hayward EcoStar 3400VSP.. It doesn't matter how much air is in the pump basket as long as it's not passing through the pump which, as noted by the absence of bubbles at the returns, it isn't. In terms of documentation of an air bubble of various sizes in the...

Re: Yet another priming issue with Hayward EcoStar 3400VSP.. Easy enough to check - turn on the SWG to max output, i.e. make sure it's producing chlorine, and check to see if it's making little bubbles at the returns. Then turn it off and see if the bubbles disappear within 30 sec. or so...

Re: Yet another priming issue with Hayward EcoStar 3400VSP.. Might work, but it's usually easier for a system to suck air in than to pump a fluid out. Is you pool set up with a salt water chlorine generator (SWG)? If so, that would be where the tiny bubbles are coming from and it's normal...

Re: Yet another priming issue with Hayward EcoStar 3400VSP.. Glad to hear that you found and fixed the problem. Just out of curiosity, do you have a working pressure gauge mounted on the filter? if so, what pressure reading were you getting before you put in the new filter? What is it reading...

Re: Yet another priming issue with Hayward EcoStar 3400VSP.. Is your main concern that the filter basket won't fill past half full? If so, don't worry about it. I have the same pump and had the same concerns about air being drawn into the system somewhere. I pressure tested my system from...

Thanks Mark, I'll be keeping an eye on it. Gary

Thanks for the reply. As far as I can tell the filter pressure is the same as before, though it's a bit high as I need to clean it. If a seal is leaking would it just leak out of the pump housing onto the ground or would it leak into the motor bearings? Gary

My son and his girlfriend came over to swim while we were gone. Apparently, the pool cleaner hose kept getting in their way so they took it out and set it on the deck. Problem is, the cleaner valve was open and it pulled all the water through and then began sucking air. He didn't know any...

I used the Taylor FAS-DPD kit where it says to use 25 ml of water, add 2 dippers of R-0870 DPD powder and then count the drops of R-0871 titrating reagent till it becomes colorless. The first test, at sundown, took 17 drops for a reading of 3.4 ppm FC. The next morning, just after dawn, it...

Sorry, that should have read "FC Decrease = .2 ppm" I edited the original message to correct this. Thanks for pointing it out. Gary

I tested the FC and CC this morning and here are the results: FC Decrease = .2 ppm CC = .2 ppm With those results I guess I don't have to worry about anything growing at the moment. I put some more conditioner in a sock a couple of days ago to continue bringing the CYA level up. When it's...

Thanks for the quick reply. The water is perfectly clear, the only places I saw any algae at all are the ones mentioned above. I'll check the CC's tomorrow and post the results. I'll also do the Overnight FC Loss Test tomorrow night and post it on Mon. AM. No, none at all, just a variable...

Hey everybody, I've been away from the forum for a while since everything seemed to be trouble free. ( that's the point, right? ) Over the Memorial Day weekend we were gone for 5 days. When we were about 100 miles away I realized I hadn't balanced the pool water before we left, and it had...

I'm using laundry bleach from Wal-Mart (6% sodium hypochlorite) for the chlorine when it's too cold for the SWCG to work and I'm not using any shock at all.

As noted in my original post, fill water CH is 160 ppm. Is it ok to just leave it at that level and let it rise on it's own, or is that too low? What's the minimum CH I can get away with for semi long-term use? Gary

Hi all, I'm having a problem with high CH levels and I'm wondering what causes it to rise over time. The level was at 250 ppm in early January, 2011 and then started rising in mid-March. Between April, 2011 and June, 2012 it rose from 270 ppm to 575 ppm. It's now up to 675 ppm and I'm in the...

I had my pool replastered in Sept. 2010 and I've kept a pretty close eye on the chemistry, but the CH level has been steadily climbing. My fill water has a CH of 140 and as of Feb. 2011 the pool CH was 250. Since then it's been steadily climbing until it's now up to 575. I'm going to have to...

I hadn't realized I never updated this thread. Thanks for JamesW for bringing it to my attention. The problem ended up being a dead cell and was replaced without question by Pentair. It's been working great since except for a recent problem here that was solved with a cell cleaning in an acid...

JamesW - The earlier problem was different in that the "Cell" light would never come on and hence, no chlorine production. They ended up replacing the unit under warranty. (I'll update the other post - thanks for bringing it to my attention) However, the problem seems to be solved for the...

James - This is part of my concern. the Low Salt light is solid red and the Cell light is solid green and producing chlorine. My salt level is a minimum of 3570 (test strip) to a maximum of 4000 (drop test). I can understand that the unit thinks the salt is somewhat low due to the reduced...

A quick addendum to my last post: I just found the owner's manual and it states the following: "If the salinity is below 2600 ppm, the salt display will light the red LOW SALT indicator, and the CELL light will go blank, indicating there is not enough salt in the pool for chlorine to be...

Thanks for the info. One last question: it's been just abut 3 mos. since I cleaned the unit (the recommended cleaning interval) but the pool has seen very little use and chlorine levels have been fairly stable. If it is in need of cleaning could this also cause it to read low and turn on the...

Recently the low salt light came on on my IC-40. The cell light is still green and it appears to make chlorine. The salt readings are 3570 with the Aquacheck test strips and an even 4000 with the Taylor 1766 drop test (not sure which one is the more accurate - anybody know?). The water temp...

Recently the color of my pH samples has gotten more intense and it makes it difficult to accurately determine what the proper color match is on my Taylor test kit. Nothing has changed in the chemicals I'm using however the water temp has gone from 74 deg. to 64 deg. in the last 12 days. I've...

Thanks Jason.

How sensitive is the FAS-DPD test to the amount of DPD powder used? This morning when I tested my water I used 2 scoops of DPD powder. The first scoop turned the water pink as it usually does and then I added the second scoop. In this particular instance both scoops were just a little less...

I have to disagree with your opinion on the Pool Calc app. I've been running it on my iPod Touch since last September and more recently on my iPad 2. I use it probably 3 times a week or so and I've never had it lose any of the settings. Possibly it was a faulty installation and deleting and...

Any downside or potential problems related to having the TA so low? Gary

I've already lowered the TA to 70. Are you saying I should go lower? 60? 50? Is the acid demand still likely due to the new plaster from Sept. last year? If so, will the lower TA and/or higher pH still have a beneficial effect on the acid demand, or not until the plaster cures completely? Gary

If I did that I'd be adding acid daily! It only takes a day to go from 7.8 to 8.0 and beyond the next day. Gary