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New motor from pool store Very simple design. Wire run into the back and connect to 3 terminals. Voltage change plug and capacitor. Nothing else to touch. Yes, ammeter tested on AC unit. Working fine. Yes, fan is working and exhaust vents are clear. Motor runs hot, but these size motors...

Thanks for checking. Ok so new timer and breaker. I sure hope switching to 220 works

I've got an intermatic t101r. Can this handle 220?

Sorry, meant to say white/neutral. Typed too fast. I'm thinking about switching it over to 220V, but it's running now and no trip outs, so...?

Black/neutral is hot. White is warm. Black is hot at the timer. White is cool. Do you think there is a problem with the neutral?

OK, so just stopped home. Pump is running, good pressure, no indication of tripping the breaker. Motor casing is hot and still drawing 18A. Will watch it to see if thermo goes.

Why didn't they set it up like this to begin with if it's so much better?

I was thinking of this too. I can still use the 10awg for 220V? And what size breaker? I also need to check if I have room in the panel. The dryer and maybe the air handler are on 220...? Not at home yet to check on pump, but I can tell if it was cycling based on the timer.

No stranded ROMEX available at 3 stores. Going for the regular THHN. Not so cheap at $80 a coil x 3.

The conduit can definitely handle it, but like you said, hard to find stranded ROMEX. OK, off to Lowes. Will report back later. Thanks.

I'm running the pump now to get some circulation in the pool. I'm in south florida and the pool has been idle for 3 days. We'll have a small swamp soon without some movement. It's only been about 30 minutes and no breaker trip or overload of the thermo. I'll see which goes first. I'm using...

OK, timer taken out of the process. No light transformer. Wire from main panel to the motor with a simple switch in the circuit. Still drawing 19A at the motor under load. And I noticed that the wire from the main panel to the timer is 10 awg stranded. Wire from timer to the motor is 12...

Yes, original mechanical timer. I did disconnect the light transformer thinking that maybe causing an issue. No change. I think I did bypass the timer previously but will try again in the morning. Thanks. After that, any ideas?

Sorry. 12 AWG

And just for giggles, I switched the setting back to 220 and ran it under load. 118V 13.2A Ran for about 10 minutes and overheated.

Main Breaker to Timer = 75 feet Timer to Motor = 8 feet

Bench test complete. Approximately 6 feet from the main breaker panel. 118V 8.8 - 9.3 A What do you think?

Will do bench test and report back. The motor company is going to freak. Two bad motors in less than 3 months...?

When you say panel to pump, do you mean from the main breaker panel to the pump? And, do you mean a bench test with a pigtail attached? Are you thinking the wire run from the main panel to the pump is damaged?

At the motor under load (coupled to the pump and in the casing moving water) 112V 19.5A

No load means the motor is uncoupled from the pump...same as you described. Motor has juice and spins no problem. Will double-check on amp output and repost, but fairly certain it draws around 10A. How can it be the pump? Can you elaborate, please? Impeller, diffuser, and casing. That's...

100% positive on impeller. Double-checked at store and online. SF is 1.0 ~10 psi

PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE help me. I'm at my wits end. Hayward Super II Pump 1hp Marathon motor running on 110V, 12.6A C1200 filter In short, motor under load is drawing 18-20A. Motor will run for a while, thermo will pop from overheating, cool, and then restart. Called electric company. No...