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It sounds like you have it figured out. I will say that since my Stenner is on a new digital timer, and the pool pump is still on an old mechanical timer, I schedule the chlorine injections to be 3 hours inside the filter pump on/off times to account for any timer drift and short power outages.

1. Which liquid chlorine dosing system do you use? (Stenner) 2. Does your system respond to a sensor, or do you dial it in based on your drop-based testing? (drop-based) 3. What is your current pump run time? (9AM-9PM at 1100RPM, 2600RPM w/solar on) 4. What is the run time of your liquid...

I would just make sure the rollers spin freely, no lube.

Your numbers look perfect. Just keep doing what you're doing.

Any time! That looks like a great setup.

You definitely want it installed after the heater. I wouldn't take the risk of expensive heater parts getting damaged.

Here's my electric bill that shows this year's usage vs last year. May and June look pretty good so far!

Check the drain plugs on the suction side of the pump as well as the pump lid seal.

With a little more effort, you can install a T connector with a threaded outlet that the injector threads into. To me, it seems a little more sturdy that way.

If you can protect the pump and tank from the elements, and it's still easy to get at, then do that. Most people use the 1/4" chemical resistant black tubing. Will you be using a timer? You would need easy access to that as well. If it were me, I'd want everything positioned in a way so i can...

Water clarity is back to normal. All I can surmise is that there was dissolved stuff in the water that came out of suspension with the pH change. I noticed the filter pressure also went up enough to require a backwash, so the filter was catching whatever it was. I guess this means my water is...

Yup, I just gave the pool a half gallon dose and bumped up the Stenner by a few minutes to increase the FC.

What did I mess up? Pool has been crystalline beautiful up til 2 days ago when I measured pH and found it was a bit high at 8.0. I mixed a pound of dry acid with 3 gallons of water and slowly poured half in the skimmer and the other half in the deep end. A few minutes later my wife goes "What...

It also depends on your chemical regimen. If you do it my old way with chlorine tablets, and only checking total chlorine and pH, you could end up running for 18 hours a day and never have clear water. If you do it the TFP way, you can run the pump way less.

I almost went with the Stenner Econ T pump, but I wasn't sure how it would mount to a flat tank. I'll be interested to see how it works for you.

About the timer, I'm always leery of anything that connects to the web. How "chatty" is it with the server(s) in Taiwan, and can your timer's location be pinpointed via MAC address or some other metric? Can usage patterns be read to determine whether you are away on vacation? Can the server...

Sadly I saw the same thing with my new installation, and maybe it needs very high back pressure to seal properly. But I do think the chlorine supply is safe from pool water back-flow.

The only reason to keep it running during the more expensive daytime hours is for solar gain. Otherwise if your electric rates are tiered like ours, try to run it more during the cheapest times.

I'm running the Stenner 17 GPD and I figure it's dispensing a little less than 2 oz. per minute. Considering a filter flow rate of 30 GPM, that's less than 2 oz. chlorine diluted into 30 gallons of water. Then it dilutes even further the moment it hits the pool water. I don't think you will have...

They are the Home depot variety of stainless, so I may be looking at plastic replacements soon enough. Thanks for the tip.

Why do you want the Stenner grinding away all that time? Get the cheap Woods timer and the 10 or 17 GPD Stenner. Then run it for just a few minutes, several times a day. Much less wear and tear that way. The Woods timer can be programmed for up to 20 events per day.

I bought stainless steel. That's the $6 in mounting hardware. They are 10-24 button head allen cap screws, and under that is a neoprene washer to keep it water tight from above.

I wouldn't install more than the first 2 you mentioned, which are the ones you really need. Every valve becomes a maintenance item sooner or later. Are you running solar without check valves now? Do you have a vacuum check valve near the solar panels?

Plus they run cool, which means less wear and less electricity converted into useless heat. It's a great thing. VS pumps will become the norm as prices continue to go down, just like when everyone went from CRT to flat screen TVs. I suspect my electric bill will be looking A LOT better.

Any kind of a leak is always a bigger deal when its inside rather than outside. As long as someone keeps an eye on it, then it should be OK. Will the 7 ft. run be underground, or protected from people accidentally kicking it, etc? Here I thought folks are generally happy with SWG and stick with...

It's a concern because the pool pump is on a mechanical timer. If the power goes out for a few hours, then it's possible the Stenner will inject chlorine into a non-running system when the power comes back. In that case, the chlorine will dilute with the water still in the pipe and slowly drift...

Call it Stenner for cheap-skates, because that's how I roll. :) After reading almost everything in TFP about automated chlorination, I decided that the Stenner was the best overall option for us. The thing that bothered me though was the price and dimensions of the Stenner tanks. So I looked...