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Yay! Congrats on passing your SLAM!

Yes, based on your description I suspect it's copper staining. Do you have any dry acid? If so, try putting some dry acid in a sock and rubbing it on the stain (it should lift a copper stain). I also recommend you discontinue the use of copper containing products. I don't have direct...

They are probably springtails in which case they are harmless but annoying.

In the pictures the lines look more of a blue/teal color than black. Does it come off when you scrub it? Can you scrape any off with your fingernail and smear it on a white towel/napkin? If you can and it smears green it's likely algae. Due to the blue/teal color though, I'm wondering if it...

You are correct, the answer is to keep SLAMing. With the rate of chlorine loss you have reported, you still have live algae in the water so keep checking your levels and bringing FC back up to SLAM level at least 3-4 times per day, and brush at least once per day until you pass all 3 criteria to...

For your filter, you want to clean it when the pressure rises 25% over clean pressure. That means if your clean pressure is 16, you should clean it when the pressure reads 20. I don't have a DE filter, but you should be recharging a % of the DE each time you clean, and all the DE for the full...

Ok, so that means you have CYA but it's less than 30. I would add 5 or 10 ppm CYA, lower your pH to 7.2 and do a quick SLAM.

Do not leave FC at mustard level for longer than 24 hours. You risk damage to your equipment. After the 24 hours you are done and should let it drop back down to the upper range of your maintenance level.

No, I don't think dilluting will help, it shouldn't turn orange. What is the expiration date on the reagents?

What was your FC level before your added the 4 gallons? According to pool math, you added 28ppm of FC. If that was your target did you start at FC of 0?

The more you can vacuum and brush to get the dust into your filter, the faster you will get it out of the pool. Have you considered adding DE as a filter aid? It may speed up the process.

Definitely good to know, whichever spot had the lowest FC, that should be where you pull any and all test samples from ?.

Clarifier and FLOC are not recommended because they could damage your filter. Both work by making particles stick together. Both can result in gumming up your filter to the point where you need to replace the sand. Keeping your FC on the high end of the range is because you have a lot of extra...

It sounds like you still have a little bit of algae hiding somewhere. Have you checked inside or under your stairs/ladder, inside the skimmer/weir door, do you have a light niche it could be hiding behind? I would also recommend a deep clean of your sand filter. Sand doesn't really go bad unless...

Chlorine does not affect actual pH values. It does affect the accuracy of the pH test when FC is over 10... At least for the recommended test kits... I don't know how it would impact the iDip.

The Taylor k2006 / k2006C, and TF100 test kits are primarily drop based titration tests. For FC/CC, depending on which water sample size you use results are either in increments of 0.2 or 0.5. having a result end in 0.3 is not possible. Similarly, the CH and TA tests are in increments of 10 or...

Ok, thank you for the explanation. Idip not a tester I have heard of before or seen discussed on this site so I was curious. As for your SLAM, there are 3 criteria you must meet to end a SLAM 1) clear water - this refers to both clarity (should be able to read heads or tails of a coin in the...

We recommend using PoolMath to calculate how much of a given chemical is needed. If you are on a computer, there is a link to the PoolMath webpage at the bottom of the page. If you are on a mobile device, there is also an app available. How much chlorine and acid to add will depend on what...

Mdragger beat me to it, let us know if you have more questions ?

It doesn't look like you pool math logs are shared. What is your current TA and what is your target?

The test kits we recommend cannot produce test result numbers that look like that. I see in your signature that you have an iDip digital test kit. I'm not entirely sure how that one works. It is a digital test strip reader?

1) No guarantees, but I would expect it to take a few days to a week tops. If it takes longer than that you're either not following the procedure or haven't found where the algae is hiding. 2) Low speed on your pump is fine

No, phosphate remover removes phosphates, it does not kill algae. In most cases there is no need to worry about phosphate levels, even if you have algae. The best way to kill algae is to follow the SLAM process. (If you go to the menu and click on pool school, the section on algae will describe...

1) If you lost 2 FC overnight, then it's most likely algae. You should follow the SLAM process to get rid of it. 2) It's not dead yet or you would have passed your OCLT. That said, it's safe to swim if FC is between minimum and SLAM level FC per the FC/CYA chart AND you can see the entire...

How much stabilizer did you add? That will tell you your FC target. You say it's a bit over 30 (how are you testing?) So we suggest rounding up to 40 and using an FC target of 16. Test your FC level 3-4 times per day minimum and use PoolMath to calculate how much liquid chlorine to add to get...

Do you have your test kit yet?

When I say don't stare, I mean don't watch the dot the entire time you are doing the test. It's important to look away and look back so that your mind doesn't play tricks on you where you think you still see the dot when you don't. You shouldn't be looking at it for more than a few seconds at a...

1) Test CYA outside in full sun. Turn your back to the sun so the tube is in the shadow of your body and hold it at waist level. Add a little testing liquid at a time and quickly glance in the tube (don't stare). When you no longer see the dot on first glance the test is done. If the door...

Good point, I missed the length of time between tests. Since some FC held overnight, you are correct that ammonia is ruled out (good news!). In that case I agree with what you and others said above already. I am still curious about the extreme CC though. Did you (@Janet51) add any other...

Your combination of green water, very high CCs, and 0 CYA is a bit of a red flag to me that you may have ammonia in your water. Can you do a test for me before you add anymore CYA to your pool? Add enough liquid chlorine to raise your FC to 10, wait 20-30 minutes then test FC/CC again and post...