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After looking at wiring diagram some more realized there are 2 sensors on the other side of manifold lower one is HLS. Jumped the lower one and heater starts and runs fine now. So I am ordering new HLS sensor from Amazon. I was jumping AGS sensor earlier which is on other side... While I'm at it...

Heater has been working fine for past year since fixing gas flow issue (thank you to this forum for helping me troubleshoot and solve that issue). Now I am back for more advice. Heater does not fire and service heater led is on. Immediately after turning on power the PS led comes on, then a...

Yes water restrictions still in place at least for outdoor water watering I believe pools too. I should only need to remove 10% to get the salt down to 3600 and CYA to 80. Or maybe I can just add liquid Clorine for next couple months to keep at 5ppm and deal with later this summer.

And they were wrong on salt too. I checked it using K-1766 kit and I get 3800. The SWG is registering 3950. So I am done with Leslie's they were the ones that told me to add 2 bags of salt in the spring. I guess another example of them just trying to sell more chemicals - I'm sure no surprise...

You're right their test was way off. I just tested myself used up my last R0013 and I get CYA of 90. Also last night before posting I added 1 bag of their "powder plus" and the SWG has been running 100% for past 12 hrs. Just checked FC is now 5ppm and CC is 0. I'll read up on SLAM now. I am...

Yes I am getting some light green algae in the deep end of the pool that easily brushes off, which I know from experience is due to lack of chlorine. I test it and its 0 so not much surprise there! I have Taylor k2006 kit using the sbd titration test so i know my test is accurate. My CYA is...

I'm having problems this season with the system being able to keep chlorine in range. System is about 3 years old. First year worked great consistently had 2-3ppm all summer with IC40 set at 25%. Second year started out ok but then I had to increase output to 50% to keep chlorine in range then...

Yep it was the brick. Got a replacement today, plugged it in and now I can connect local and from mobile app again. So now just need to install the new thermostat this weekend and then will be 100% operational again, and just in time usually April is when it gets warm enough here to start...

I'll give it a try. But when I ran the updater last time it could not find the brick to update it. I'll check support site make sure I have latest versiond and try again. Sent from mobile using Tapatalk

Ok thx that's good to know for future reference. No groove on this one. The plumbers that came out to look, and the gas company when they replaced the meter did not catch it either. Sent from mobile using Tapatalk

I found this diagram online it actually acts as a temperature controlled mixing valve when the outlet temp reaches 120 or higher the thermostat opens and allows "cool" inlet water to bypass the heater coils thus lowering outlet temp into safe range. How a Gas Pool Heater Works Sent from...

Yeah that's what I immediately realized when I saw it too, looks like it's been this way since the beginning. And check out the position of the bolt compared to the open valve position it has to be at an angle I have never seen that before on a valve like this usually the bolt shroud be square...

Seems my brick is bricked. I called pentair today they said it has not connected to their system since the fall. I had a problem with last year too tech support did some updates while remotely connected to my PC that fixed the problem for a few months before it failed again. This time I think...

Important point. Yes I use Pro Dope on all gas threads. This is not a typical DIY project and should only be done by someone with proper plumbing experience. Sent from mobile using Tapatalk

Yep that seems to be the culprit. Took it out and it does look a bit gunked up. I put the cover back on without the thermostat and the heater runs fine up to the set point so I'll get a new one. What does this thermostat do anyway is it a safety feature? I figured it might work without just like...

Yep its the thermostat. Temporarily removed it from the housing, ran the heater without it and it kept going right on up to 100. Going to order replacement on amazon. Sent from mobile using Tapatalk

Well I'm making progress but heater is now having a new problem. Gets the spa to 90 degrees then burner is cycling again. New problem, now the red service heater light comes on. I looked on back of the control board and the HLS led is on. Going to check the other posts on here now I'm sure...

Problem solved! The issue was indeed low flow, but not due to the line it was just a faulty valve. The stopper on back of the valve was loose so it was not closing or opening at the right position. In addition there was what looked like rubber sealant that had accumulated in the valve opening...

The old heater only worked for about 3 months after I bought the house, that failure and the high electric bill due to single speed pump is what led me to replace the whole system. There is no sediment trap by the heater, yes I would suspect the screen too but it's been cycling since day 1...

No, they did not test, but I tested it myself this week: reading at meter with ALL gas appliances in house running: static 7.3, dynamic (+pool heater running) 7 reading at inlet side of heater valve (house gas appliances off): static 8.29, dynamic -1.17 The manual says the dynamic needs to be...

I was relying on my pool service, who did the install of the automation and the heater. He investigated, called Pentair, told me the problem was "low gas flow" and most likely was a bad line. I trust him, but I also wanted to get a second opinion from a plumber before I spend $3000+ and rip up...

Yes the mastertemp replaced the old pool heater which was probably the original heater. I'm not sure if the pipe is actually 30 years old, the tile in the pool looks to be from the 80's though, so my guess is the original owners build the pool in mod 80's.

Thanks this is helpful, also says that 1 1/4 is good up to 100ft, so my line is correctly sized. When I replace I will still go oversize and have 1 1/2 run just to be safe. Sent from mobile using Tapatalk

Thanks for letting me know, but with a drop in pressure so severe pretty sure now my line is shot. 30 years in the ground guess it must have rusted out. Probably will start leaking any day now. Sent from mobile using Tapatalk

I just noticed that the second reading is negative! so the heater is sure trying to stay running sucking every last bit of gas out of line, must be really plugged. Wow. Sent from mobile using Tapatalk

Meter came today one day early, thank you amazon prime :) Right after connecting the meter had a pretty definitive diagnosis. Looks like it's time to write a big check for new line. I also did a test at the meter, no significant drop when heater came on (8.0 drop to 7.8 and that was with both...

The RPM is 2800 for heater/pool and 3200 when on spa. Temp sensor on the automation is about 2 ft downstream of the pump outlet. Sent from mobile using Tapatalk

I decided to skip the homemade manometer project, after seeing I could get a Pyle digital one an amazon for $58 that comes with the tube and 1/8 fitting. I want to also test and keep an eye on the propane pressure on my RV, so a compact meter will work well for that. Amazon should deliver it...

Thanks for the suggestions. The pipe size out of the the meter is 1 1/2 then it goes into a T one side goes into wall of hois and other side and reduces to 1 1/4 before it goes into ground on its way to pool heater. It comes out of the ground by heater as 1 1/4 then is reduced down to the size...