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I compared my test strips against my Taylor kit results just to use up the strips (and out of curiosity). The strips I was using (HTH brand, I think) were surprisingly accurate. They are certainly handy and much easier during the long process of reducing high alkalinity using the "drop it by 1/2...

Assuming that your tests are valid, then you must have something in your water that is using up the bromine. Excess bromide (bank) shouldn't be much of a problem. I suspect biofilm in your plumbing. I'd do an AhhSome treatment and refill.

I think a good/thick/tight-sealing cover is as important, or maybe more important, than the lower insulation. The cover is an easy way for a seller to skimp because a buyer is likely to be more focused on the fun aspects of what they're buying.

Yes. Add chlorine to create bromine. I don't think the 2x bromide you added is a problem.

I suspect that there was water left in the system from the factory wet test and it has contaminated your water. I would recommend running an AhhSome treatment and refilling. You could try a "super" shock treatment but if there is biofilm in your system that effort would be in vain.

Sounds like you have a high sanitizer demand. Probably needs a shock or water replaced. I suspect you may have biofilm established in your plumbing. You might consider an AhhSome treatment(s). That's what I would do.

As MPurcell stated, you should add pure sodium bromide to your water to establish a bromide "bank". He is one example of what you might use: https://www.walmart.com/ip/HTH-Spa-Brom-Start/17043650 Then when you add an oxidizer, such as liquid chlorine bleach, some of the bromide is converted to...

Ditch all that stuff. Read the "stickys" at the top of the forum list.

I'd bet you have biofilm established in your plumbing (and maybe the filters too). Do an Ahh-Some treatment. Maybe more than one.

If there's any chance that it could encounter freezing temperatures before you decide to use it again then I would shoot some RV anti-freeze in there. I was lucky to only have to replace a heater when that happened to me.

I'm using the TF-100 kit. Twice. Then I tried my HTH kit. Neither indicate any hardness.

Taylor kit and HTH kit both @ 2 yrs. old. Pool Calc said I needed @ 11 oz. of calcium chloride or 20 oz. of of calcium chloride dihydrate. Not sure which I have so I started with 10 oz. and got no red. Added 10 oz. more and still no red. 350 gal. tub.

I just refilled my tub. Soft water. My Taylor kit test says the sample should turn red if calcium is present. It didn't so I added 10 oz. calcium chloride and ran jets. Tested again and still no red. Added 10 oz. more and ran jets. Still no red. Tried my HTH test kit thinking maybe Taylor test...

I don't think temp. or balance matters for the Ahhsome treatment.

Yes on the Ahhsome. You could take your chances by skipping it but if you start wondering why you can't keep your water balanced/sanitary then you'll know why. As far as leveling... - You could pour new level concrete over the existing. - You could box in an area with pressure-treated lumber...

Sit in it for 1/2 hour or more. Try all the different seats and jet and air settings. It's the only way to know if you like it. The store may arrange a time when you can try the tub(s) while the showroom is closed to others.

Welcome to TFP. I haven't tried either of those brands but if I was spending $ for a new tub I would want to try it before I bought it. We are all built differently, and use our tubs for different reasons, so it's hard for us to know which one you'd like more. If that store doesn't do "test...

You may be fine with 1 or 2 treatments. Especially if you're not having high chlorine demand now. If the foam comes up white then I wouldn't bother with any more treatments until your next water change.

I don't think you need to drain it, but if you do make sure all the water is out of the plumbing. I had some water left in my heater that froze and expanded and broke it.

I suspect you've got some biofilm in your system. Chlorine or bromine won't kill it. Many here recommend an Ahh-Some cleaning treatment and then new water.

I would be concerned that if the fiberglass insulation got wet then it becomes ineffective and a nasty mess to clean out.

How about just stuffing lots of bubble wrap in there? That's what I did where I had to dig out some foam to repair a leak.

Why do you say that?

I use a stick-type water gun from the dollar store. ;-)

I hadn't heard that. Curious why.

I'm very much looking forward to your results. I've been using sodium bromide with bleach as the "kicker".

I would blow air through all openings and even consider pumping in some RV anti-freeze using a turkey baster or garden sprayer. Just my $.02

I have test strips, a TF-100 kit, and the pool that I "pool sit" for has a digital strip reader. The strip reader just analyzes the color on the strips for you and you have to use their strips which only test 3 parameters. Kinda pricey for what it does, unless you're color blind, and it's still...

Sodium bromide is the "inert" chemical you want in your water waiting to be "activated". We often call it a bromide "bank". This should be @ 30ppm. We normally add it when we fill the tub. You can buy a packet of it for @ $3.00 You don't need to add any more until the next water change. When you...