Search results

Hello folks, it's been a while since I posted here. Recently the chlorine dipped low for several days, maybe a week or more, and this staining took over large (and I mean LARGE) sections of the grout in between the tiles. It doesn't appear to be much (if at all) on the tile itself, just the...

I recently did a partial drain and refill to get my 100+ cya levels down to a manageable level. Been using mostly bleach and cal hypo as main sources of Chlorine since then. Current numbers: FC 4.2 CC 0 pH 7.5 - 7.6 TA 40 CH 270 CYA 30 (or maybe even less) Here's the thing. After the drain I...

So you would only recommend brushing the walls in the general area of the pour if you dumped it too quickly by accident? This whole brushing thing... I really need to know how effective or important this step is in adding either of these 2 chemicals. Mostly because I REALLY hate brushing the...

Thank you all for the help so far. This is what concerns me. So if I pour too quickly, why would brushing the sides help? Do these chemicals tend to spread over the walls near the area they went in if you dump it?

I tend to be a paranoid person when it comes to my children's safety. My worst fear is either of these liquids creating a pocket or saturated area that someone swims through and has irreversible eye damage (or something else equally nasty). 1) I guess the best way to look at this is, what...

Hmmm....I see that, but now I'm actually more confused. Most of what I've seen that quotes the standard 1.25lbs to raise 10ppm in 10k mentions calcium chloride, or hardness increaser, but do not specifically mention "dihydrate." For example, this guy HOW TO RAISE CALCIUM HARDNESS IN A SWIMMING...

If you google this question or if you look at the instructions for some calcium chloride packages you will get the standard answer that seems most common, which is about 1.25 lbs to raise 10 ppm in 10,000 gallons. Some other sources say 1 - 1.25 lbs to raise 10 in 10k. Pool Math...

The definitions were based on this chart Chlorine/CYA Chart which is more detailed than this chart Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart. The value that was in the first chart that is absent from the second chart is Yel/Mstrd Min. I think that one is causing me the most confusion.

I thought I understood what the target FC levels meant, and I know the specific numbers are related to your cya level, but the more I think about it the more I think I need a clarification. I'm assuming that you should shoot to keep your FC at the the "target FC" number and never let the FC...

Thank you all for the info so far. It's been really excellent. I know I should bring down cya levels, but I'm not sure how low I should go, or how low is even practical. I live in a very sunny area and my pool is fairly large at about 35,000 gallons. I should probably make a different thread...

It wasn't that high. I don't remember exactly but it was probably under 10 but over 7.

So in your experience both with your own pool, and/or pools you service and time on this forum is there any significant risk to pool equipment, tile, grout, piping, etc when performing a SLAM with higher cya levels? As far as the mustard algae question that was mostly based on the earlier part...

That whole pH test not being reliable above a FC of 10 really concerns me. If you have higher cya levels, like I do, and consequently have to keep FC above 8 and really near 10-13 anyway, then it's almost like you will never get a reliable pH test, and regular pH testing is the second most...

The thing is I already have 3 out of 3 criteria. The pool water is always clear, and even when I get a small bloom of algae the water usually remains clear (but that may be because I kind of overdo my filtration with my pump running longer than it needs to). Every time I test for CC it's usually...

I did the overnight FC loss test, and it showed no drop. The local pool store 5 minutes from my house does not do metal testing, and neither does the one they referred me to call. I'm still looking around for someone who will do it. I should take a picture of it the next time I have it, both...

The Calcium and TA were probably low for 6-12 months, maybe somewhere in the 60-70 range for calcium and 50-60 for TA. The thing is living in hawaii I do not have pool heating equipment, but I don't know what kind of pipes are running underground to the pump. The house and the pipes are probably...

I used the Taylor 2006, and to get a CYA reading above 100 I carefully use half pool water and half tap water for the 7mm part of the beaker before adding the reagent. Whatever reading I get, I double it since the solution is diluted by half. Then I run it a second time. I always get a reading...

Little background: I have been taking care of my pool solo for 2 little more than 2 years, but haven't been as consistent as I should be. The pool may have had very low TA levels and calcium levels for an extended period of time. My current numbers are: FC - fluctuates daily but right now...

My CH started at about 110 and now am about 150 (bringing it up slowly).

Whenever I test for CH, after adding the 20 drops of the buffer, and 5 drops of the #11 coloring, I always get pink water, never red. Is this common based on my other numbers given above? Causes? I don't think I'm getting the fading endpoint problem. As I add and count the drops #12 hardness...

I'm curious as to why some would choose not to add calcium? Are these people living in very hard water areas or some other reason? Again, thank you to all for help. Some excellent and detailed responses so far. ;)

Thank you for all of the advice. I may start another thread about CYA struggles and recommendations. That is going to be a journey in and of itself - not just to reduce CYA but to keep it at manageable levels indefinitely. As far as the CH goes, 250 would be the minimum recommended specifically...

Yes,the entire pool is tiled. I used di-chlor and tri-chlor

It seems the recommended CH levels have a huge range. I have a tiled pool. Test results (taylor 2006): FC - 1.2-1.4 (low because I'm doing a bioactive test to try to lower CYA) CC - 0-0.2 pH - 7.4 TA - 140 CH - 110 CYA - 110 I'm currently increasing CH with calcium chloride, but I'm not sure...

Hello all. First post. I've been taking care of my own pool for almost 2 years now, and I wish I had been more consistent at the start. I'm here to learn consistency and fight some problems that have developed. Test results (taylor 2006): FC - 1.2-1.4 (Was 3.6 two days ago. I'm trying to keep...