Hello, I'm new here and been lurking for a while. I hope someone here can give some suggestions to fix my latest pool problem. I have an Intex Krystalclear saltwater system that I've had about two months, got it second hand off CL. It's worked great until yesterday - when I noticed it's red service light was on and solid (not blinking). I turned the unit off at the back switch, turned it back on and it's green "working" light came on for a few minutes then went off (back to solid red service light). So, I thought I'd clean the electrolytic unit. Unfortunately I was only able to soak and clean the copper electrode (with vinegar) as I didn't have the end caps for the clear housing that the titanium pieces are in. The end caps are now on order. Anyway after cleaning the copper pieces, I put it back together, turned the pump on, waited a few minutes and then turned on the SWG. Again the green "working" light came on for a few minutes then went off... back to the red "service" light. Anyone have an idea of what's going on? BTW, I'm pretty handy and have no problem working on the unit with a little guidance. I really appreciate any help I can get on this. My little girl's been planning a back to school pool party coming up in about a week - my finger's are crossed.

Im sorry I cant help, but I would suggest you getting some chlorine bleach on hand and in the pool to keep your FC level up. Just mentioning incase you havent already. Welcome to TPF and there will be someone along to help soon Im sure.

Ditto on getting the bleach in there now.

You'll probably fix your problem once you clean the cell. You don't need the caps to clean the cell some. You can pour the vinegar through the cell into a bucket. It'll dissolve any deposits. You could try that and see if it helps.

Bleach, household bleach? How much for a 5100 gal pool? BTW - I forgot to mention that for the almost two months I've had the pool up and SWG connected, I (embarrassingly) didn't check the water with any kind of strips or any other testing methods. I just simply relied on the intex unit's digital display which never gave any kind of negative codes before the red service light came on. It's not that I didn't mean to get some test strips, cyanuric acids, etc.. but I just haven't YET. I figured "the water's nice and clear so it can wait a little longer.". The thing is - I assumed that since the titanium plates are not dirty looking, then they don't need cleaning.. but I realize too this could be a mistake. Would that have messed something up?

If you haven't done any testing then we really don't ahve a clue what it might be. You really need a good test kit.

You need to tell us what chems you've added to the pool. we need to know how much of each, especially CYA and salt.

You can use the Pool Calculator to fugure out how much to add but you're going to need to know FC now and CYA.

Thanks Bama, I've added nothing but water and pool salt (three - 40lb bags / 5100 gal pool as per Intex's instruction PDF) when I built the pool. Water has stayed clear as a bell for 2 months and the Krystalclear digital read out has given NO negative codes. I know that the test kit and full chemical makeup of the water is important though, even if the water's clear - can you recommend a good and simple test kit for me. I'd rather order it on line rather than get from Leslie's (I HATE that place, lol). Thanks again!

Do you have a chlorine/pH test kit? If so then I'd order the TF-50 from tftestkits. There's a link in my sig for them. If you don't have any test kit I'd go ahead and get the TF-100. It'll last you at least this year and next, and maybe a third year. I'd be remiss if I didn't recommend the SpeedStir also. It's the handiest thing for running the tests, especially the CH test.

I know that's a lot for a test kit but it's definitely worth it and it'll save you tons of heart ache. And you'll never have to visit the pool store again unless you want to.

If you haven't added any CYA you need some. While we're trying to figure out what's wrong with your swcg, you can get a floater at Wally-World and keep the chlorine in there. It'll add a little CYA as it's adding the chlorine too.

Bama, I'll keep that info on the kits tucked away until the off-season when I can afford it... I'm affraid that any extra funds I have available is about to go on buying another Intex Krystalclear SWG . I just got back from Wally-world, picked up test strips and some CYU acid, will report back on my finds.

Update - I cleaned the entire cell (titanium plates and copper unit) with "Distilled White Vinegar", the thing still only works for about three minutes before shutting off. So two questions: 1) Will "distilled" vinegar clean just as well as any other vinegar? and.. 2) Are there any conditions that the water could be in that would shut the chlorinator off ? [remember my water is clear, if not a little cloudy now].

Update 2: Strips show what I thought... only "water hardness" is in spec. FC is at zero (I just added a big chlorine tab to the float). Ph was as zero, Alkalinity at zero, Cyu acid at zero (so I just added some). Still though to the root of this thread, no of this should 'cause as SWG shut down, should it?

Don't trust those strips. There's no way the pH is zero. Low maybe but not zero. Take a sample to the pool store and have them test it before you go adjusting anything seriously.

HTH has a 6 way test kit (very similar to the tftestkit) at wal-mart for around $19 - any reason to skip on that one?

That kit's a good interim kit. It's ok until you can get a good kit. it only has 2 CYA tests IIRC. The TF kits wind up being cheaper per test when you figure in the number of each test.

Did you ever figure out what made your light come on mine has been doing the same thing this year and i cant figure out what is wrong with it, we just bought it last summer and intex will not tell you anything