AquaLogic to Omni PL Upgrade Kit Install

kello711

Member
May 25, 2019
22
St Louis
Pool Size
30000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
I did the upgrade last spring from the AquaLogic to the Omni PL. I took lots of pictures but never ended up posting them. Here is my attempt now. Keep in mind I did this over a year ago, so my memory is foggy at best; however, the process was pretty easy.

Here is my panel with the cover off before I started. You will notice I don't have too much automation going on, but nevertheless this is it. I took the picture so I could remember where everything was later if I forgot. This will make more sense later.
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Close up of the various connections. These will actually directly plug into the same positions on the new board. This is true for all boards except the E-command (I believe). Read the docs it is in there.
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My box had a quick connect for the panel, so I reused it. This is different that what the directs say but in the end it is all the same.
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I'm going to skip including all the pictures of the current settings, but it goes without saying that you should document all the settings so you can input them into the new system. There is a spot to write them all down in the upgrade manual as well.

This is the first picture of me actually starting the upgrade. I've removed all the connections for the transformer. The manual should tell you how to match the colors up with the wiring harness that is in the kit. You can also see I've removed the wirings coming from the breaker as well (black and white wires).
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Here you can see where I've disconnected the harness for the relays (red/black wires and black connector). Also the connectors on the left side are removed. They are just hanging down to the side. At this point the board should be ready to come out. Only a couple screws holding it in. It was "fun" getting the board out but it will make it without removing anything else.
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All wires disconnected and AquaLogic board is out and ready to install new hardware.
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All the extra wires hanging off these bad boys can come out as well. They will not be used but you leave the blocks in since the box was designed to be waterproof with them in there. I suppose you could take them out and seal up the holes, but that is more work than necessary.
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Go ahead and install the new board pretty much the same way the old board came out. The first connection was the yellow wires. Wire harness with wago connectors included.
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Continued below.
 
Here you can see where I shortened the included harness for the black/white power line to plug into the existing wiring block.
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Next I connected the wires from the transformer to the included harness. The colors should match up. And plugged into the board.
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Connect the relays to the board.
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Reconnect the green wiring blocks back to the left side of the board. Again, the AquaLogic is a direct swap, so no need to rewire them. Also I connected the flow switch to the board.
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Find a suitable mounting location for the control panel. Mine is right next to the box. Feed the wire into the panel at the bottom left and connect to the top of the board.
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Throw away the old cover and install the new cover. Don't forget to plug in the SWG cable.
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Finished installing, now do all the software stuff based on the install manual. This should include any updates, wireless connection, and adding the configuration settings from your old system (e.g. schedules, etc.).
 
I did everything as you outlined and upgraded from a p-4 system. None of my equipment (all Hayward) is being recognized. That includes all relays as well as the air and water temperature sensors. Any ideas on how to troubleshoot this?
 
I'm interested in your filter wiring. It is definitely different than how mine was wired.. but I have a pentair vsp.
My pump is a Hayward VSP. The control wires are in the top green block (red/black wires). The power is directly wired into the circuit breaker (big 220v on the left side of the panel.
 
I did everything as you outlined and upgraded from a p-4 system. None of my equipment (all Hayward) is being recognized. That includes all relays as well as the air and water temperature sensors. Any ideas on how to troubleshoot this?
Without seeing any pictures of what you did, this might be challenging.
 
I undertook this upgrade today and happily it all seems to be working. It took me about two hours. I needed:
- a regular Phillips head screwdriver (to get the faceplate off),
- a tiny glasses-style flat head screw driver (to loosen and then retighten a couple wiring connectors),
- a socket wrench (to get the two bolts holding the old board off, and then reattach them for the new board),
- a wire cutter/stripper tool (for the yellow wires), and
- a drill and two regular not-provided screws (to mount the controller).

In retrospect a set of needle nose pliers would probably have made pulling out some of the wires from the old board easier.

I was also upgrading from an AquaLogic but in one respect my old board was different than the pictured one: the heater relays were part of the taller green wire connector on the upper left. The instructions in fact warned that those wires were not the same so you couldn't just plug the tall green connector back in or it would damage the equipment, contrary to what this post says about just plugging everything back in. So I needed to take out the two wires for the heater and instead attach them to the lower smaller green connector on the new board before plugging the tall green guy back in. Not a big deal just something to watch out for - I guess Hayward changed the AquaLogic boards at some point.

I had been torn about whether to have a pool company do this or risk doing it myself. In retrospect, it was totally doable and a big savings.

Here you can see how my AquaLogic Board had the heater relays as part of the long green connector:
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So before reattaching that green connector to the new OmniPL board, I just had to just take those two wires and stick them on the small green connector that sits below the tall one on the OmniPL board - no big deal. But the original poster's AquaLogic board already had the heater relays in a separate smaller green connector so he could just pop the connectors onto the new board without this step.
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