Impeller Broke on Polaris Booster Pump - Questions

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JSnake Repair

Well-known member
Apr 26, 2024
53
Texas
Our pool that came with our house had a broken Pool Cleaner (Polaris 380) and Booster Pump (Polaris PB4-60). Knowing how to manually clean a pool and no idea how to fix a pool cleaner, I tossed the cleaner in storage. Fast forward a year when manually cleaning is losing its luster, I discover that the cleaner is actually a very good one and fix it. I set it up and it runs for about an hour and stops moving. Find out that the booster pump is not working properly, and investigating a rattling sound reveals a broken impeller (middle is completely broken off).

This pump is likely around 10 years old, but it hasn't been used at all in the last year. And when it was used last, the cleaner didn't even work properly (broken belt, among other things).

I am thinking that the pump broke due to excess strain (well, obviously, but let me continue). I have 2 filters on the 380: a small one at the wall quick connect and another longer in-line one (that is likely not doing anything as the previous filter is before it). The pool is very dirty at present, and this small filter is filling up fast. When the cleaner stopped moving (impeller broke) I checked this filter and it was covered over with debris...

Prior to fixing the the 380, the previous small filter had a hole in it, and there was no in-line filter...

Last thing to note is the intake line for the booster pump has a crack in it (air getting in). Just now discovered and repairing.
  1. Is this normally enough strain to kill an impeller (either the filter clogging, air getting in, or both)?
  2. Should I remove this small filter and use the larger filter until the pool reaches a cleaner state?

    Just trying to understand why this impeller broke before I install a new one. Thank you!
 
Impellers are mechanical so these things happen. The intake to the booster pump should come from the return which is after the filter so the water should be debris free going into the booster pump.
I only used the inline filter that is directly after the wall connection for the cleaner. I remove it occasionally but hardly have had any debris in it.
 
Unfortunately, I figured that is how it SHOULD be but is not the case with our setup...

The intake is split going into both the booster pump and the cartridge filter. Annoyingly, the booster pump is part of the loop with no shutoff valves; so now that the booster pump needs service you can see I have connected the out-hose for the booster pump directly to the in-hose connection to bypass

Unfortunately most of this setup is a mess. Foundation work has raised the back of the concrete pad, and there are numerous leaks in the PVC (all problems I inherited). You can see large crack in the strainer pot that I patched (have a new replacement...waiting for this to break for good). I have little experience with PVC, but at this point I have disassembled both pumps, the pot, and the filter...I think a few careful measurements and some PVC cement I could redo this setup with new pipe; namely the pipes going in and out of the filter (that have suffered the most stress from the pad shifting).

Could you markup any changes or additions to this setup?
 

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While you are doing PVC work remove the tablet chlorinator and install a SWG.

A VS pump would be a good upgrade.
 
The intake for the booster pump is after your filter and tab chlorinator in your pics.
The output of the booster pump is the vertical pipe going into the ground.
This provides filtered water to booster pump.
 
JSnake Repair said:
The intake is split going into both the booster pump and the cartridge filter. Annoyingly, the booster pump is part of the loop with no shutoff valves; so now that the booster pump needs service you can see I have connected the out-hose for the booster pump directly to the in-hose connection to bypass
Click to expand...
I think you have this reversed. The main filter pump flows to the filter then from the filter it goes to the return to pool but also TEEs to the inlet of the booster pump. I am not sure what that second TEE is for other than a drain line. See the photo marked up
IMG_9957-modified.JPG

JSnake Repair said:
You can see large crack in the strainer pot that I patched (have a new replacement...waiting for this to break for good). I have little experience with PVC, but at this point I have disassembled both pumps, the pot, and the filter...I think a few careful measurements and some PVC cement I could redo this setup with new pipe; namely the pipes going in and out of the filter (that have suffered the most stress from the pad shifting).
Click to expand...
since that pump strainer is already cracked, it would be a good time to buy a variable Speed pump. That will pay back to you with lower energy costs.
PVC is fairly easy to work with, if you can disassemble the booster pump. Just dry fit everything before applying the PVC cement. There are good YT videos to give you some guidance.
I would start at the pump and redo all plumbing to filter and then from filter to return line.
If that 2nd TEE is a drain line then suggest it be put between pump and filter.
If you go with a VS pump, it will come with unions to install before and after the pump.
Let us know what you plan to do.
 
That tablet feeder before the booster supply, if used, can damage the booster. Impellers do break at times, its the nature of a pump. That's why you can purchase them as a replacement part. Why it happened may not be clear, but if you have a large suction leak, a lot of air entering the booster while it is running will cause it to run dry, the seal will overheat and damage the impeller and that may have happened to yours. I've seen it many times, including my own system.
Your pool is plumbed correctly, the supply to the booster is after the filter (below that annoying tab feeder). The supply to the cleaner is the vertical pipe.
 
Last edited:
HermanTX said:
I think you have this reversed. The main filter pump flows to the filter then from the filter it goes to the return to pool but also TEEs to the inlet of the booster pump. I am not sure what that second TEE is for other than a drain line. See the photo marked up
View attachment 568004


since that pump strainer is already cracked, it would be a good time to buy a variable Speed pump. That will pay back to you with lower energy costs.
PVC is fairly easy to work with, if you can disassemble the booster pump. Just dry fit everything before applying the PVC cement. There are good YT videos to give you some guidance.
I would start at the pump and redo all plumbing to filter and then from filter to return line.
If that 2nd TEE is a drain line then suggest it be put between pump and filter.
If you go with a VS pump, it will come with unions to install before and after the pump.
Let us know what you plan to do.
Click to expand...
Thanks for your response.

I have mixed up the flow of this system so often I don't know why I never bothered to draw arrows like this photo. Thanks a lot.

That being said, if it is true that FILTERED water is going to the cleaner...why is the cleaner's filter getting so dirty? Is this a sign I need to replace the cartridge filters (they are old...)?

Also, this is not the first time I have been recommended a variable speed pump. However, I mentioned I already have a brand new oem pump strainer, just waiting for that patched one to keel over. Regardless...I actually appreciate the energy inefficiency of my pumps because I have an energy plan that credits me to use more energy in a certain window (when I primarily run the pumps).

The busted lines I am replacing are due to the concrete pad shifting dramatically (the pumps are partly floating). I am getting a foundation company to come and level everything soon. Was planning to enroll in YouTube university to learn PVC ironically. The second tee leads to a handy valve followed by a garden hose fitting...I guess the crank knob on the hose fitting is not suitable for that amount of pressure...or why would they do that?
 
How do you chlorinate your pool?

What is your CYA level?
 

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ajw22 said:
How do you chlorinate your pool?

What is your CYA level?
Click to expand...
Chlorine tabs in that tab feeder as well as a free floating one; a bag of shock each week. That's usually the extent of chemicals I need.

I am just running the pump part of the day with some chlorine at the moment; Not cleaning or balancing chemicals. Focused on fixing the other issues first.
 
Next time you have you filter open, check the manifold for cracks. If it's an older SwimClear (pre-2012) the manifold is on the bottom. Those were a pretty common failure, hence they redesigned for a top manifold. The "fun" part is that if it's the bottom style, you'll have to remove the lower bulkhead to access it. The cracks occur on the bottom side where you cant see them.
I've replaced many of those type manifolds.
 
JSnake Repair said:
That being said, if it is true that FILTERED water is going to the cleaner...why is the cleaner's filter getting so dirty? Is this a sign I need to replace the cartridge filters (they are old...)?
Click to expand...
The photo shows you have a Hayward cartridge cleaner. You should clean that annually by removing the cartridges, hosing them off and reinstalling them. A pool service can also do this for you.
The stuff in your cleaner inline filter can be from the main filter or even parts of the impeller from the booster pump.
I would clean the main filter, repair the booster pump and see how it flows.
Also, rather than using the chlorinator, just use the floater with 5-6 pucks for the time being until your get all the repairs done.

You do not need to have a VS pump to run a SWCG but it has its advantages. A SWCG is a big investment, but basically purchaing your chlorine now for the future so you avoid any price increases in tabs and liquid chlorine. It does make pool care easier and you will not have to shock your pool weekly as you are doing now. Just maintain a consistent level of chlorine.
 
Mayorb said:
Next time you have you filter open, check the manifold for cracks. If it's an older SwimClear (pre-2012) the manifold is on the bottom. Those were a pretty common failure, hence they redesigned for a top manifold. The "fun" part is that if it's the bottom style, you'll have to remove the lower bulkhead to access it. The cracks occur on the bottom side where you cant see them.
I've replaced many of those type manifolds.
Click to expand...
It is the 'newer' style...info I learned when buying the new impeller.
 
HermanTX said:
The photo shows you have a Hayward cartridge cleaner. You should clean that annually by removing the cartridges, hosing them off and reinstalling them. A pool service can also do this for you.
The stuff in your cleaner inline filter can be from the main filter or even parts of the impeller from the booster pump.
I would clean the main filter, repair the booster pump and see how it flows.
Also, rather than using the chlorinator, just use the floater with 5-6 pucks for the time being until your get all the repairs done.

You do not need to have a VS pump to run a SWCG but it has its advantages. A SWCG is a big investment, but basically purchaing your chlorine now for the future so you avoid any price increases in tabs and liquid chlorine. It does make pool care easier and you will not have to shock your pool weekly as you are doing now. Just maintain a consistent level of chlorine.
Click to expand...
I hose them down at least twice a year actually (just did it). But again, these are very old filters that I imagine degrade over time.

The content of the in-line filter was all algae/organic material.
 

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