Bonding and grounding

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Tnt17tnt

Tnt17tnt

Well-known member
Oct 6, 2023
91
Duncan SC
Pool Size
18600
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
I've researched on here and read posts from 2007-2017 and also have looked at NEC and changes last year and even the current recommended change and the debating updates to come later this month.
I will attach what I have for my 52" deep pool.
The lug i have- is it for both grounding (to a ground rod) and bonding??
I have the regular 3 prong plug going to a GFCI. That goes to the garage and main panel breaker which of course has ground rods to the house.
Pool installer last summer said don't worry about either grounding or bonding.
Former electrician says he's never heard of bonding 🤔 and says my lug is for the ground to a ground rod 3 to 4 foot away, down 8 foot. And then connecting to another 8 foot ground rod which is 6 feet away from it.
*note- I've put one of the ground rods in. Used a hammer drill and bought an adaptor to go on the 1/2" rod. However the next rod I hit hard earth 4 foot down and had to pull it out which then bent. I plan on doing another one in another spot but before I did I wanted to see what helpful knowledgeable advice I could get currently here.
Our county inspector via a neighbor friend who has no fence around his AG pool (they say the county doesn't have guidelines or permits) supposedly shrugged his shoulders when asked about grounding and bonding here in upstate SC.
 

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JamesW said:
The external lug is for bonding.

The ground lug is inside the wiring compartment where the power wires connect.
Click to expand...
So you will agree with me then- I've already buried a 8 foot rod. Why bother burying another one to run wire to that lug per the electrician "knowledge" last month.
 
House electric system should only have one ground at the main electrical panel and all electrical wiring should be connected back to the main ground.

Ground rods are only used when there are secondary structures and sub panels outside the main building.

Equipotential bonding grid is never directly connected to a ground rod or electrical ground in the US.

Electrical Bonding - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
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ajw22 said:
House electric system should only have one ground at the main electrical panel and all electrical wiring should be connected back to the main ground.

Ground rods are only used when there are secondary structures and sub panels outside the main building.

Equipotential bonding grid is never directly connected to a ground rod or electrical ground in the US.

Electrical Bonding - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
Click to expand...
2023 is the last update. I've been reading the 2024 breaking updates and "notes" as they call them. What they adapt now is comical
 

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Tnt17tnt said:
*note- I've put one of the ground rods in. Used a hammer drill and bought an adaptor to go on the 1/2" rod. However the next rod I hit hard earth 4 foot down and had to pull it out which then bent. I plan on doing another one in another spot
Click to expand...

You may want to call 811 before driving a ground rod. I have seen them go through a number of things - storm drains, sanitary sewers, telephone cables, etc.
 
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phonedave said:
You may want to call 811 before driving a ground rod. I have seen them go through a number of things - storm drains, sanitary sewers, telephone cables, etc.
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I had done that. and pre marked lines and septic from when I had the install done myself with flags as well as a sketch and video of that area.
 
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ajw22 said:
Thanks for that. Great video and I was not aware of the TIA.
Click to expand...
I am dreading what I need to do...but the after moment effect is telling me to turn off the pump for now when anyone is in the pool (kids and 2 year old grandson)
Since nothing was done at installation last summer and then I built a half round deck on one side towards the house my obligation would be to follow code and crawl under the deck that has 2-3' clearance and dig out what i need to and lay the wire. The only bolt connection I can see is near the top of the upright aluminum brace that connects to the panels. Plastic covers the bottom and top of each upright. So if I connect a wire to that but yet run back down underground as called for to 4 equal spots would I be "safe" while the pump is running? I can attach pictures tomorrow of what I have to deal with if that helps.
Edit- added old winter photo of side view and me in the pool cleaning a few days ago when the water hit 78ish. Tomorrow I can snap a picture of the screw to metal upper to explain what I'm thinking. But I also want to dig down to the base and see what is under the plastic cover for any more possibilities
Thanks
 

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Last edited:
The pump not running does not make the pool more safe.

As the video you linked to explained, voltages can be in the ground from sources outside of your pool equipment.
 
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ajw22 said:
The pump not running does not make the pool more safe.

As the video you liked to explained voltages can be in the ground from sources outside of your pool equipment.
Click to expand...
Thanks. The denial phase and the ignorant past is haunting me is all. Off to work I go in the dark.
 
Tnt17tnt said:
Yes. It's a 3 foot cord/3 prong going to a GFCI on a post. Then wired 50 feet or so underground back to the garage and main break panel with a 15 amp breaker for the pump.
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If the pump is on a GFCI you have as much protection with the pump running or off.
 
Tnt17tnt said:
I am dreading what I need to do...but the after moment effect is telling me to turn off the pump for now when anyone is in the pool (kids and 2 year old grandson)
Since nothing was done at installation last summer and then I built a half round deck on one side towards the house my obligation would be to follow code and crawl under the deck that has 2-3' clearance and dig out what i need to and lay the wire. The only bolt connection I can see is near the top of the upright aluminum brace that connects to the panels. Plastic covers the bottom and top of each upright. So if I connect a wire to that but yet run back down underground as called for to 4 equal spots would I be "safe" while the pump is running? I can attach pictures tomorrow of what I have to deal with if that helps.
Edit- added old winter photo of side view and me in the pool cleaning a few days ago when the water hit 78ish. Tomorrow I can snap a picture of the screw to metal upper to explain what I'm thinking. But I also want to dig down to the base and see what is under the plastic cover for any more possibilities
Thanks
Click to expand...
Bonding is for different potentials, which do not necessary have to come from energized equipment

You should have the following:

A copper ring around your pool, buried 4-6" in the ground. That ring should be tied into the metal uprights at 4 equal points around the pool. Technically you are not supposed to use self tapping screws to attach the lugs to the uprights, as they do not make enough contact. You are supposed to use a nut and bolt. I'm not sure how you do that after the fact. I attached my lugs with stainless steel bolts and nuts before installing the uprights.

Anyway, the copper gets buried around the pool, and attached at 4 points. You also need to connect the bonding lugs on any electrical equipment (pumps, SWCG, etc) to this ring. You also need to bond the water to this ring. You can bond the water in a variety of ways - via a plate in the skimmer, through a section of metal piping, or sometimes via a heater. You also need to bond anything metal that is within 6' of the waters edge. A ladder, a diving board, a gazebo, etc. It all gets connected together.

You do not want to bond to plastic on your uprights, you want to bond to the metal. My uprights have plastic "shoes" as well. You could slide the shoe up, attach to the metal underneath, and slide the shoe back down, or you can do what I did and just bond into the leg above the shoe.
 

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