BioGuard BioLab UV sanitizer bulb replacement.

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i_intub8_u

i_intub8_u

Well-known member
Nov 13, 2023
90
Wisconsin
Pool Size
17000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool Core-55
I am looking to replace a UVc light bulb for my pool UV sanitation unit. It is a LC10 model number UV sanitizer by Bioguard BioLab (was told Delta UV made it for them).

This unit is 14 years old (I just purchased the home last fall).

The bulb I took out says 70-18420 BL (which I thought meant blacklight, which I wouldn't want). I think the other owner added the wrong bulb (and it has long since burned out). Delta UV makes a 70-18420 bulb but it has the wrong connector on it. The bulb also says 7303-L30 on it. It has a very unique connector on it. 2 sunken pins in the middle with 2 raised on the outside (rather than your typical T5 connector).

Here are some pictures of the old bulb and the UV sanitizer unit (sorry for all the corrosion, the old owner had somewhat neglected everything so we are getting it all back up to standards).

Any idea where to source a compatible replacement? BioGuard themselves were little help as they said that was discontinued over a decade ago. Delta UV has been sold multiple times and the tech support guy said he had no idea where to source the custom bulb.

Could I cut the old connector off the unit and put a standard T5 pin connector and use a more standard UVc bulb in it?

Wild West Pool Supplies has one in stock online but it’s listed for $156 plus shipping. For a bulb that will last 1 year. I can source regular UVc delta UV bulbs with a standard connector for $40 or so.

Just seeing if anyone has come across this recently and has advice.

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How about replacing your entire UV system where parts should be available?
 
 
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Have you pulled the quartz sleeve out of the unit to inspect? The quartz sleeves need cleaning and replacement regularly as well because the UV light eventually creates high absorption color centers in the glass which degrades the performance of the system. The glass also gets deposits on it that need to be cleaned off.

Those connectors are designed the way that are because the bulbs need a very high voltage kick from the power supply to start the cold mercury plasma. Two of the leads supply the current to the tungsten filament inside which gets very hot. A standard T5 connector would likely burn up.
 
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JoyfulNoise said:
Have you pulled the quartz sleeve out of the unit to inspect? The quartz sleeves need cleaning and replacement regularly as well because the UV light eventually creates high absorption color centers in the glass which degrades the performance of the system. The glass also gets deposits on it that need to be cleaned off.

Those connectors are designed the way that are because the bulbs need a very high voltage kick from the power supply to start the cold mercury plasma. Two of the leads supply the current to the tungsten filament inside which gets very hot. A standard T5 connector would likely burn up.
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I haven’t pulled the quartz sleeve yet, but I will if I can source a replacement bulb. Any other ideas on where to find this bulb? It’s 36” long.

Here is the Wild West listing for the lamp: Custom Molded Products UV Replacement Lamp Assembly, Delta UV, Bio-Lab UV System | 1000-2670
 
i_intub8_u said:
I haven’t pulled the quartz sleeve yet, but I will if I can source a replacement bulb. Any other ideas on where to find this bulb? It’s 36” long.

Here is the Wild West listing for the lamp: Custom Molded Products UV Replacement Lamp Assembly, Delta UV, Bio-Lab UV System | 1000-2670
Click to expand...
I guess here it’s $117 plus $15 shipping for the lamp.

pool-spa-supplies.com

UV Replacement Lamp Assembly, Delta UV, Bio-Lab UV System

UV Replacement Lamp Assembly, Delta UV, Bio-Lab UV System
pool-spa-supplies.com pool-spa-supplies.com
 
It’s just going to cost what it costs. This is a 13 year old system from a company that no longer sells the unit made by a manufacturer that no longer exists. The fact that you can even find a replacement bulb is a minor miracle and if you’re insistent on keeping the old unit in place, you should probably buy two bulbs … I would call first and make sure the reseller actually has them for immediate shipment and isn’t just posting a stock photo.

Long term solution is to replace the unit entirely with a system that is actually supported.
 
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JoyfulNoise said:
It’s just going to cost what it costs. This is a 13 year old system from a company that no longer sells the unit made by a manufacturer that no longer exists. The fact that you can even find a replacement bulb is a minor miracle and if you’re insistent on keeping the old unit in place, you should probably buy two bulbs … I would call first and make sure the reseller actually has them for immediate shipment and isn’t just posting a stock photo.

Long term solution is to replace the unit entirely with a system that is actually supported.
Click to expand...
Right. I was just wondering if anyone had an easy solution for this. I have a Circupool Core-55 SWCG on the way I’m planning to self-install. But figured if I can get this UV system up and running since it’s already plumbed in line, it would just help the efficiency of the SWG. I’m just a bit concerned about the SWG with an indoor pool and how my equipment and automatic pool cover will hold out regarding corrosion. The guys at the pool company keep warning the SWG will corrode things out. Coming to the forum again for all the wonderful help and wealth of knowledge contained here.
 
i_intub8_u said:
The guys at the pool company keep warning the SWG will corrode things out
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Hogwash. With an indoor pool that gets no rain dilution, the salt will climb from all that sodium hyperchlorite over time.

They are thinking about salt water, which isn't pool water.

The only reason the salinity wouldn't match or exceed 'salt pool' salinity is from mismanagement needing to drain every year or two. It'll be neat to see what the salt level is, which is never tested in 'chlorine pools'.
 
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Newdude said:
Hogwash. With an indoor pool that gets no rain dilution, the salt will climb from all that sodium hyperchlorite over time.

They are thinking about salt water, which isn't pool water.

The only reason the salinity wouldn't match or exceed 'salt pool' salinity is from mismanagement needing to drain every year or two. It'll be neat to see what the salt level is, which is never tested in 'chlorine pools'.
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Ok that makes me feel better!
 
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I’d like to know what your auto cover rails are made of?

Aluminum and salt water (even mildly salty water found in pools) isn’t a great combo. Cheap stainless steel rails and fasteners will corrode.
 
You might not need the UV.

I know that you initially had persistent CCs due to something in your fill water.

Are you still getting CCs?

If yes, UV will probably help.

If no, UV is probably not necessary.
 
JoyfulNoise said:
I’d like to know what your auto cover rails are made of?

Aluminum and salt water (even mildly salty water found in pools) isn’t a great combo. Cheap stainless steel rails and fasteners will corrode.
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It’s an Aquamatic Hydramatic automatic pool cover system.

I’m not exactly sure what the rails are made out of. But the manual online mentions salt water pools and to keep the salt level around 3000-3200 ppm max.


I received the Circupool SWG today and my digital salinity tester. The Taylor salinity kit is coming but not until next Thursday. The tester says my salt level is 1576ppm already. I suppose that’s probably true since I add liquid chlorine as my sanitizer. So going to 3000ppm isn’t a huge jump anyway.

I want to go slow with adding salt to the pool to get to 3000ppm so I don’t overshoot it as it’s an indoor pool (so no rain water dilution) and my well water isn’t a great fill water.

I’m guessing I should keep my CYA at as close to 0 as I can for the indoor pool? Or do I want some for the SWG? I see conflicting recs on the forum for CYA level. I haven’t seen an indoor pool SWG thread specifically mention CYA level. So I just want to be sure.

My latest tests:
pH 7.0
FC 2
CC 0.5
TA 60
CH 150 (vinyl liner pool)
CYA 5 (according to 2 pool company tests, the rest of the data is my TFT test kit)
TDS 1800 (from pool company)

Thanks!
 

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JamesW said:
You might not need the UV.

I know that you initially had persistent CCs due to something in your fill water.

Are you still getting CCs?

If yes, UV will probably help.

If no, UV is probably not necessary.
Click to expand...
Very little CCs since refilling with known good water. Sometimes 0 or 0.5 on my drop test. I just figured if I could get the UV up and running relatively economically, it would make the SWG’s job easier and let the cell last longer.
 
You should keep your CYA at 30ppm for bather comfort. Chlorinated water with no CYA is incredibly harsh and will cause the formation of much nastier CCs due to the reaction rates involved. CYA is a chlorine buffer as well as a stabilizer against UV loss.
 
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