New T-15 Cell Showing High Salt and Timing Out

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TAMC93

TAMC93

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May 25, 2013
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Replaced an old cell that was showing low salt and planning on cleaning it as a backup in case it has life. Will try to reinstall after checking salt levels at Pool Store.

Installed new cell and it is currently showing 6,400 ppm (checking actual salt levels next), but have added plenty of water and almost running pure water now through the filter - no change. Also reading 24.1 V and 10 amps when it starts.

Control Board is a Hayward ProLogic installed around 2012.

Thoughts?
 
You should never believe the low salt warning from Hayward SWG systems. It sounds like you did and added salt before realizing your cell was the problem.

High salt, 6,400 ppm and 10 amps all indicate your actual salt. You need the Taylor K-17866 or TFT Salt to determine what your actual salt level is. Then you need to drain enough water to reduce your salt to around 3200 ppm to make your system happy.

To learn more about how Hayward systems determine salinity read Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading
 
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Thank you. Pool Store reading was 7,000 so did a partial drain and refill.

Currently according to the diagnostics, it around 6,400, but less than 10 amps. The salt reading is saying 4,300. I bought some test strips and will double check in the morning once it finishes topping off.

Is there a way to reconcile the 6,400 vs 4,300 with a menu setting? That seems to be a wide spread.
 
TAMC93 said:
Is there a way to reconcile the 6,400 vs 4,300 with a menu setting? That seems to be a wide spread.
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Nope. The Aquarite calculates what it thinks the salt is.

You need to keep on draining until the actual sanity is around 3200 or the cell is happy with whatever it is.

Test strips are not very accurate. You really need to get one of the salt test kits in the prior post .
 
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Can you check the instant salinity, temperature, voltage and amperage?

The 6,400 ppm might be the average salinity, which will come down on its own or you can reset it, but it does not matter as long as you are not getting a high salt warning.
 
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Some systems give a high salt/amps warning at 8.0 amps and some use 10.0 amps.

If you are not getting a high salt warning, you are ok, but the amps will go up as the water gets warmer.

To keep the system circuit board from overheating, I would keep the amperage below 7.5 amps.

If the amps are above 7.5, lower the salinity until the amperage is below 7.5 amps.
 
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I think I finally got it so the system is happy. Will see, but will continue to drain/refill as necessary.

The system board is Crud if it was that far off, but I guess you already know that.

I agree test strips are not the best, but that was what was available. Also, I feel bad at times for using the local store for spot tests and rarely buying anything (thank you TFP!).

New test kits ordered from TFP.
 
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