Adding valve actuator to hose bib - no overflow port in pool

Katygreys

Gold Supporter
Mar 5, 2022
340
Katy, TX
Pool Size
18000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Hi all - my pool strangely does not have an overflow port. This is super annoying because hopefully I just happen to be home when we get 3" of rain in 1 day in Houston, and...I have to go out in the rain, turn the spigot on, set a timer on my iphone so I don't forget about it, then go back out in the pouring rain to shut it off. My main concern with current method is, aside from the annoyance and lack of remotely operating, is that I have to remember to go outside and turn it off. If I don't remember, I'm burning up a pump...

Anyone ever automate this by installing a valve actuator before the spigot? Any reason not to, or any tips? Anything that could go wrong here with this solution?

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Grey,

I do basically the opposite. I use a sprinkler valve to add water to my pool and my automation shuts if off after X amount of time.

I use a 24 VAC transformer to power the sprinkler valve, and one of my automation relays to power the transformer..

The same basic idea should work for you.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
It looks like valve 3 is available and you can put it on a countdown timer.

Do you have a remote access (wired, wireless) to the Prologic?

What is the model number of the Prologic?

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Black - Common

Red - Switch Leg

White - Switch Leg

Note that the voltage is AC, not DC.

You should measure 24 volts AC from black to red or black to white when the valve is off.

When the valve is on, the voltage switches from red to white or white to red.

So, if you had 24 volts AC from Black to Red with the valve off, the voltage should be 24 volts AC from Black to White when the valve is on.

For an On/Off valve, connect to Black and Red or Black and White whichever is not powered when the valve is off.


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Grey,

You can use the 24 VAC that the automation generates and it will work fine.. I use a separate 24 VAC transformer, just because if things go bad, I don't want the automation to blow up. It is not necessary, but cheap insurance..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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if things go bad, I don't want the automation to blow up. It is not necessary, but cheap insurance..
Each JVA requires .75 amps at 24V AC.

You can install an inline fuse to help protect the system in case there is an issue.

A 1 to 3 amp fuse should be fine.

A separate power supply is not expensive, so that is a possible solution and just go through an available relay.

Make sure that the transformer can meet the power supply requirements.

0.75 amps at 24 volts is 18 VA (Volt-Amps).

So, a 20 VA transformer should work.

Check the power required by the actual valve to make sure the power supply is adequate.

The system is designed to drive a valve actuator, so hopefully, it should not exceed the board supply.

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Wow y’all. Great feedback.
I have a PL PS 8 with clunky aqua link. OmniPL arrives tomorrow so will hopefully upgrade this weekend along with adding SWG, FINALLY!!
 
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Grey,

I do basically the opposite. I use a sprinkler valve to add water to my pool and my automation shuts if off after X amount of time.

I use a 24 VAC transformer to power the sprinkler valve, and one of my automation relays to power the transformer..

The same basic idea should work for you.

Thanks,

Jim R.
Funny you should mention…

 
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I would put a powered valve in place of your spigot. Use a relay in your automation to open/close it. You will need to leave in place a hose or whatever you need to direct the water away from the pad.
 
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I would put a powered valve in place of your spigot. Use a relay in your automation to open/close it. You will need to leave in place a hose or whatever you need to direct the water away from the pad.
Yep that’s what I was asking about. Mainly looking for any down side to doing this that I didn’t think about. But anything has got to be better than the current process.
 
I use a powered valve (110v) controlled by my automation to run my autofill.

There are many valves on Amazon. I would suggest getting one that is Normally Closed. And Closes when power is removed.
 
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I use this on my faucet to fill. Its battery powered and connects to your wifi. You can either schedule it to come on, or in this case, just use the phone app with built in timer to turn it on for x minutes to drain your pool. Its nothing fancy, but installs in 2 minutes for well under $100.

 

Hmm so let me ask…

I’ll be converting my prologic to Omnipl, and adding SWCG hopefully this weekend. The current wiring you see here is for a 2 speed pump(very recently replaced with a variable speed), heater, blower, pool light, spa light, and two valve actuators. My main question is will the Omni PL have enough relays for me?

In the picture you see, Aux1 is spa light, and Aux2 is blower. Aux 3 is for the now-nonexistent 2 speed pump and is currently unused (although yes, you do see wires hooked up to it). So, do I need more relays??
 
adding SWCG hopefully this weekend.
You know that the Prologic has the SWG power center included, right?

All you need is the cell.

ProLogic 8 Relays, 4 Valves, 2 Heater, Solar
Hayward

SKU: PL-PS-8


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The current wiring you see here is for a 2 speed pump(very recently replaced with a variable speed), heater, blower, pool light, spa light, and two valve actuators. My main question is will the Omni PL have enough relays for me?

In the picture you see, Aux1 is spa light, and Aux2 is blower. Aux 3 is for the now-nonexistent 2 speed pump and is currently unused (although yes, you do see wires hooked up to it). So, do I need more relays??

1) Filter Pump needs a relay.
2) Blower
3) Pool Light needs a relay.
4) Spa Light needs a relay.
The Pool Light and Spa Light can go on the same relay or you can put them on separate relays if you want independent control.

The Heater does not need a relay.

The ProLogic has 8 Relays and can do 4 Valves.

You can operate the drain valve using a relay or a valve actuator or you can use the same valve as your fill line and control it from your app.
 
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