No Lights on Mastertemp 400HD

Jump to latest Follow Reply
D

delvarela

New member
Mar 20, 2024
4
Los Angeles, CA
Hi everyone,
Heater was working for several years. It is about 8 years old. I live by a wash and foothills and have lots of bunnies and rats. Replaced the glow plug couple years ago because of chewed wire. New problem is no lights whatsoever on the heater. Heater was switched on and off by timer clock since variable speed pump installed. Looked at time clock and looked to be fried. I bypassed the clock and added a breaker to pool panel for heater. But still no lights at all. Can't see any damage on control panel. Tried jumping control panel at ribbon connector without success like other suggestions. Fuse looks intact. Maybe transformer? Appreciate any help thanks!
 

Attachments

  • image_67235329.JPG
    image_67235329.JPG
    595.7 KB · Views: 26
  • image_67511553.JPG
    image_67511553.JPG
    575.8 KB · Views: 24
  • image_67520257.JPG
    image_67520257.JPG
    470.2 KB · Views: 14
  • image_67220481.JPG
    image_67220481.JPG
    448.7 KB · Views: 22
Poolbreh said:
I’m guessing the blue wire is to the new breaker? That’s a twin 2x 120v same leg and not double pole 240v each leg. Since the 240v socket plug is in there, it appears it was originally 240v.
Click to expand...
+1

It seems you replaced a double-pole tandem breaker that was on the left side, with a dual single-pole on the bottom right side.

These do not work the same way.

You need a hot from the other side of the bus and a common trip for proper 240v, which can only be done using a tandem breaker that takes up two breaker slots in order to connect to both legs. It will look exactly like the breaker in the upper right.

Or, you need to swap the plugs on your fenwal and convert a hot lead to a neutral and connect it to your neutral bus to make it 120v. But changing your breaker to a tandem and sticking with 240v is easier.

Let's start with that. It needs to be corrected before we do anything else.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: delvarela
bradgray said:
+1

It seems you replaced a double-pole tandem breaker that was on the left side, with a dual single-pole on the bottom right side.

These do not work the same way.

You need a hot from the other side of the bus and a common trip for proper 240v, which can only be done using a tandem breaker that takes up two breaker slots in order to connect to both legs. It will look exactly like the breaker in the upper left.

Or, you need to swap the plugs on your fenwal and convert a hot lead to a neutral and connect it to your neutral bus to make it 120v. But changing your breaker to a tandem and sticking with 240v is easier.

Let's start with that. It needs to be corrected before we do anything else.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply! There was only one pole open in the breaker box. Can I double up on one of the other breakers or should I upgrade the breaker panel?
 
@delvarela before you go following our advice: did you remove a breaker? Or just add another for the heater?

Why not just bypass the failed switch using the old wires already in the box? Why run a new source breaker?

I see a 15 & 20amp tandem. The heater can be on the same breaker as your pump (doubled, as you said). And as suggested above, it should be gfci protected. Those breakers are $150 or so. So be prepared for that.

Beyond the obvious misapplication of the new breaker, I'm trying to understand why the new one was used/needed.
 
  • Like
Reactions: delvarela
bradgray said:
@delvarela before you go following our advice: did you remove a breaker? Or just add another for the heater?

Why not just bypass the failed switch using the old wires already in the box? Why run a new source breaker?

I see a 15 & 20amp tandem. The heater can be on the same breaker as your pump (doubled, as you said). And as suggested above, it should be gfci protected. Those breakers are $150 or so. So be prepared for that.

Beyond the obvious misapplication of the new breaker, I'm trying to understand why the new one was used/needed.
Click to expand...
That's a good question! I guess there is no need. I just assumed because the installer put it on the timer switch it was better that way. But now that you mention it there is an on off switch on the pump membrane panel. The only possible advantage to having the heater with a separate switch might be if there is a power outage and when the power comes back maybe the heater might turn on and heat the whole pool? Thank you for the advice!
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thank you everyone for your advice! You guys were right it was the wrong breaker. Although it looks like there is room there is no pole on the bottom of the left side of the panel. So I put in a 4 pole piggy back breaker and the heater fires up! Two different repairmen said the heater was too old and just install a new one for 5,000. You guys are awesome! Thanks.
 

Attachments

  • image_67199233.JPG
    image_67199233.JPG
    468.6 KB · Views: 8
  • image_67173633.JPG
    image_67173633.JPG
    267.1 KB · Views: 8
  • Like
Reactions: Poolbreh
Something seems off with your bus bars or breakers.

There should be 8 copper tabs where the breakers push on.

Maybe the breakers are not correct for that panel?

Each panel lists the compatible breakers on the door label.

You can buy the new busbar assembly if necessary.

image_67199233.JPG


1711141766162.png
1711142027776.png
1711142298181.png
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply