Home Depot carries regular chlorinating liquid in the outdoor sections. I’d use that rather than any cleaning bleach. All the other stuff will be more expensive and have other junk in it you don’t want. Even a pool store may carry plain chlorine/bleach.
Strong 'skin sensitivity' reaction to Bromine hot tub. How to do a bathtub test for a “Chlorine” reaction?
- Thread starter Davekro
- Start date
@Davekro. +1 to all the posts above.
I've lost count how many posts I've seen like yours with a new/casual member concerned about chlorine. Not a one of them to my best knowledge came back with an issue if they gave TFP an honest try. Somebody, somewhere, has to be so sensitive that they can't even bathe in municipal water, but we haven't met them yet.
I fought getting a pool myself because pools were nasty. I needed a shower immediately afterwards, whether it was a pool or spa, private or public. Then I often smelt and felt it for at least a day.
I myself though chlorone was to blame.
It's not. It's the unsanitary conditions that made it nasty, on every last pool/spa I was ever in before my own. I honestly believe it was every last one because 1 or 2 that didn't feel/smell the same would have stood out in memory.
*disclaimer: a hot tub has insane bather load compared to a pool. 2 people in 500 gallons is the same as 136 in my pool. Dump at the first sign of the chemistry getting away from you, which could be as soon as 3 months depending on use.
I've lost count how many posts I've seen like yours with a new/casual member concerned about chlorine. Not a one of them to my best knowledge came back with an issue if they gave TFP an honest try. Somebody, somewhere, has to be so sensitive that they can't even bathe in municipal water, but we haven't met them yet.
I fought getting a pool myself because pools were nasty. I needed a shower immediately afterwards, whether it was a pool or spa, private or public. Then I often smelt and felt it for at least a day.
I myself though chlorone was to blame.
It's not. It's the unsanitary conditions that made it nasty, on every last pool/spa I was ever in before my own. I honestly believe it was every last one because 1 or 2 that didn't feel/smell the same would have stood out in memory.
*disclaimer: a hot tub has insane bather load compared to a pool. 2 people in 500 gallons is the same as 136 in my pool. Dump at the first sign of the chemistry getting away from you, which could be as soon as 3 months depending on use.
- May 23, 2015
- 24,434
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
My suggestion would be -
1. Do another full Ahhsome purge with the current tub water. Many TFP hot tub owners have reported the need to do multiple purges with new tubs to get all of the gunk out.
2. ChloroMax doesn’t dissipate or go away. You’ll need to purge and then drain the tub.
3. If you need to use chlorine to activate the bromine then only use either dichlor granules or liquid chlorine from a pool store. Stay away from all laundry and disinfecting bleach. The ChloroMax Technology was specifically marketed to both the laundry industry as well as the healthcare industry. It is approved for use in healthcare settings. So even “disinfecting bleach” can have the additives in it without any additional labeling.
4. Most hot tub users on TFP prefer using chlorine in their tubs and many find it much easier to use a drape-over SWG like the Saltron Mini to generate chlorine in-situ. The added salt to the water might make it softer and easier on you wife’s skin.
5. Skin irritations/inflammations are hard to deal with and don’t often have a definitive cause. There could be a combination of factors at play both chemical and mechanical. You might try chlorine and then only have your wife soak in the tub without sitting near the jets and then limit soak times to just a few minutes (try 10-15mins at first). Then build up slowly from there. I would also suggest replenishing skin moisture using a dermatologist approved lotion like CeraVe cream after soaking.
Water can strip the skin of vital protective oils and sebum as well as destroy the natural bacterial flora that lives symbiotically on our skin. Just as antibiotics can create an imbalance in our intestinal flora and lead to antibiotic-induced GI disturbances, so too can washing away the “good bacteria” off of our skin cause problems. So you have to do a bit of trial and error to see what your wife can tolerate in terms of soaking in a hot tub.
1. Do another full Ahhsome purge with the current tub water. Many TFP hot tub owners have reported the need to do multiple purges with new tubs to get all of the gunk out.
2. ChloroMax doesn’t dissipate or go away. You’ll need to purge and then drain the tub.
3. If you need to use chlorine to activate the bromine then only use either dichlor granules or liquid chlorine from a pool store. Stay away from all laundry and disinfecting bleach. The ChloroMax Technology was specifically marketed to both the laundry industry as well as the healthcare industry. It is approved for use in healthcare settings. So even “disinfecting bleach” can have the additives in it without any additional labeling.
4. Most hot tub users on TFP prefer using chlorine in their tubs and many find it much easier to use a drape-over SWG like the Saltron Mini to generate chlorine in-situ. The added salt to the water might make it softer and easier on you wife’s skin.
5. Skin irritations/inflammations are hard to deal with and don’t often have a definitive cause. There could be a combination of factors at play both chemical and mechanical. You might try chlorine and then only have your wife soak in the tub without sitting near the jets and then limit soak times to just a few minutes (try 10-15mins at first). Then build up slowly from there. I would also suggest replenishing skin moisture using a dermatologist approved lotion like CeraVe cream after soaking.
Water can strip the skin of vital protective oils and sebum as well as destroy the natural bacterial flora that lives symbiotically on our skin. Just as antibiotics can create an imbalance in our intestinal flora and lead to antibiotic-induced GI disturbances, so too can washing away the “good bacteria” off of our skin cause problems. So you have to do a bit of trial and error to see what your wife can tolerate in terms of soaking in a hot tub.
One other idea.
Did you use any "non-chlorine shock" or "oxygen shock" aka MPS?
Some people claim they have reactions to MPS.
Did you use any "non-chlorine shock" or "oxygen shock" aka MPS?
Some people claim they have reactions to MPS.
I'd like to know more about why you dislike it. I haven't found a downside using it in my spa yet. More information is great!
- Jun 1, 2018
- 13,760
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Bromine is very irritating to me. At least the ones I have been in. That said- They may have very well been mismanaged. Some people have no issues.
My thoughts are that Its a few hundred gallons of water to try chlorine. If you have the same issue you can easily go back to bromine without a water exchange by just adding sodium bromide.
I have to preface it with a disclaimer to remember we specialize in Vacation Rentals. It's a certain type of user.
Below is my experience. Nothing more.
- Bromine is weaker and does not endure overuse very well
- it's harder to recover overuse in both chemical need and time
- generally looks dull compared to chlorine & optics are over-important in a STR
- smells like crayons and guests complain about it 10x more than the classic chlorine smell when they pee in it
- we have to drain due to abuse frequently and having to restore the bromide reserve is annoying and costly by comparison
- we can't control what people put in them while we aren't there, and while most shock is technically compatible, we don't take the risk
- related to above - people stick trichlor tabs in our floaters against our wishes
- bromine seems to oxidate a brilliant green with our heavy water, while we've never had this happen with chlorine
- bromine tabs are more expensive, and we include chems on spa agreements
- bromine went extinct during covid in our area
- more people have a real sensitivity to bromine than chlorine
I'm sure if I was ornery enough I could remember a few others. Any one or two of the above would put it at the bottom of my list.
The only good things about bromine are its stability in high temps and its resurrective properties. But in application these haven't proven useful and are offset by all of the above.
Last edited:
- May 23, 2015
- 24,434
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Are you running spas or nuclear reactors?
Under acidic water conditions, free bromine levels can get high enough and will cause water to have a yellow’ish tint. Bromine can react with iron (from the heater element) to create ferrous bromide which is a pale yellow to brown color. Depending on the water and lighting conditions of the tub, that could look greenish colored.
The reaction was similar to the typical "emerald-green-magic" immediately after shocking with metals. And would fade after a short period of time once the metals we reuptaken.
I always put in in the same category of reaction we would see in pools with copper algacide or that were filled from a well. Like you said, iron and copper.
I'd be interested in other theories if you have them. Bromine unequivocally produced this several magnitudes more often than LC. Water often relatively fresh.
Bromine was a non-start so we never chased the snipe.
Last edited:
@JoyfulNoise ,
1) Done
3) I will need to make a trip to the store to buy Liquid Pool Chlorine, because I want to avoid Bleach additives a possible skin sensitivity reactants. I have read a few references to using DICHLOR. Is that instead of liquid pool chlorine? Are there pros and cons to one or the other? I don't know what specific product "Dichlor" refers to. I have two SpaGuard products that came free with my new hot tub. Are either of these exactly what is meant when referring to using 'Dichlor' for sanitization? I want to use exactly the right 'Dichlor'.
- Chlorinating Concentrate 99% Sodium dichloro-s-triazinetrione dihydrate
- Enhanced Shock 58.2% Sodium dichloro-s-triazinetrione (dihydrate not in name), 41.8% Other ingreds.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 13,760
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
- Chlorinating Concentrate 99% Sodium dichloro-s-triazinetrione dihydrate
This is the one you want to use.
Not the one with “41% other ingredients”
Dedicated pool liquid chlorine can also be purchased at walmart, lowes, & Home Depot as well in the pool section
This is the one you want to use.
Not the one with “41% other ingredients”
Dedicated pool liquid chlorine can also be purchased at walmart, lowes, & Home Depot as well in the pool section
- May 23, 2015
- 24,434
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
You would use dichlor like any other chlorine source. PoolMath will tell you the exact amount you need to add to achieve a desired ppm level. Since the chlorine reacts immediately to oxidize the bromine in the tub, you can add it and let it circulate for 15mins or so and then measure your bromine levels. Dichlor is a chlorine cyanurate compound so it adds cyanuric acid to the tub which’s builds up CYA over time. In a chlorine only tub, the increasing CYA levels would cause sanitation problems but, because CYA has very little interaction with bromine, it doesn’t cause any problems. You’d be drawing and refilling the tub well before the CYA ever became an issue. PoolMath will tell you exactly the effects of adding dichlor - both the increase in FC as well as CYA. You can limit your dichlor use until your CYA reaches 30-50ppm or so and then switch exclusively to liquid chlorine. There’s no problems using either chlorine source to activate bromine.
@Mdragger88 ,
Is there any downside to using the Granular Version of Chlorinating Concentrate 99% Sodium dichloro-s-triazinetrione dihydrate? I have a 2 lb container of this from SpaGuard.
- May 23, 2015
- 24,434
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
That is dichlor. Dichlor is just a shorthand way of saying sodium dichloro-s-triazinetrione dihydrate. As long as the dichlor is 99% then it doesn’t matter who the retail supplier is. Most chlorinating chemicals in the USA are made at a handful of industrial chemical manufacturing plants and the product is simply labeled for whomever the retailer is. Just as liquid chlorine is mostly manufactured by one company (KIK Industries). Clorox doesn’t even make chemicals anymore - they purchase the premade chemicals and just stick their label on the bottle.
@JoyfulNoise ,
My just refilled tub will be use CHLORINE as the sanitizer, not Bromine. My tap/fill water has zero CYA. Do I NEED SOME CYA? DO I need to add CYA (via Dichlor) to get to 30-50ppm CYA, or is it best with a fresh start to just start sanitizing with the Liquid Pool Chlorine and have zero CYA for a while?
EDIT::: I'm reading Nitros Dichlor/Bleach method post that he put together from many of ChemGeek's post. I see that, yes, I want to use the granular Dichlor 99% that I have as sanitization chlorinator until I get to between 20 -30 ppm CYA, then switch to Liquid Pool Chlorine as my sanitizer.
I have not been able to figure out how to use the PoolMath App yet. I'll look for a tutorial later
Last edited:
- May 23, 2015
- 24,434
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
If you plan to use chlorine only in your hot tub then you need to follow the process in this sticky -
How do I use Chlorine in my Spa (or pool)?
You can use dichlor initially to chlorinate but only up to the amount that would raise your CYA to 30ppm. After that you want to switch to exclusively using liquid chlorine only. You don’t want the CYA to be greater than 30ppm.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 13,760
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
I want to report that the new chlorine sanitization after the fresh refill and purge is a big success. My wife is having zero skin sensitivity to the chlorine. After the initial shock with .8 oz of Dichlor (per PoolMath, the FC was at 11 ppm. Overnight the spa heated to 103º and in the mid morning when tested, the FC level was at 6.5 ppm. We went in for a soak. She was in for twenty minutes and no skin irritation at all. Woo Hoo! Thank yo to all for the helpful information.
Now I have a question that I started this thread for, since it is a different topic: CYA test shows no CYA after adding 2 oz Dichlor? Should be ≈ 23 ppm.
Again, thank you all for the info and patience with my skepticism. I am VERY happy that I turned out to be overly concerned.
Now I have a question that I started this thread for, since it is a different topic: CYA test shows no CYA after adding 2 oz Dichlor? Should be ≈ 23 ppm.
Again, thank you all for the info and patience with my skepticism.
I am VERY happy that I turned out to be overly concerned. Under 30 is sketchy to read at best. If you added it, it's in there. On a fresh fill, it's the only time you can trust it because of what you see now. When you test with some already in the water it may be 23 but look like 0 to 20 so we only add 10 or 15 at a time until it reads a solid 30. When folks overshoot at that point, it's only a 40 and manageable.