Rheem / Raypak 406A Gas Pressure Issues - Fixed, Now Will Not Start

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I installed new burners but understand that conditions in the boiler will produce this issue again.

I had a salt system installed 1 or 2 years after this heater was installed.

I just ran the ground to the rod serving the pool. Same result. Not firing.
 
As indicated, cut your losses and get a new heater.

We really cannot help you with this heater anymore.

Have a qualified gas contractor figure out the gas supply and have them Commission the new heater at startup.
 
I would go with pentair mastertemp. Raypak has gone downhill in recent years imo. Pictures of equipment? In line tab feeder, or were pucks used in the skimmer at any point? Is the swg after the heater? An internal leak can destroy a heater pretty quickly, but yours seems excessive for 5 years.
 
I will take pics of the unit tomorrow. I was planning on replacing in-kind so I can use the old one for parts. Also, I would like to avoid rerouting gas and water lines.

I have used pucks in the skimmers for various purposes whether it be chlorinating or managing PH. I don't really use them anymore since I have the salt water generator. There was an in-line tab feeder before the SWG as well. I didn't really use it though. I opted to chlorinate using a floater.

I will double check on the positioning of the SWG tomorrow.


Thank you again, ya'll are awesome.
 
System looks fine. I see why you want to stick with raypak. As long as gas wc is addressed as mentioned above, you should be fine. Add the sediment trap. No more pucks in the skimmer. I would also inspect the headers on a regular basis for any leaks.
 

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Flex is usually discouraged.

It can be used if it is sized properly.

The flex used looks way too small.

What is the thing that the red arrow is pointing to?

Is that a second regulator?

Why is that there?

The supply pressure is 2 psi.

For a 400,000 btu/hr (400 CFH) heater, you can do 1/2" up to about 50 to 125 feet depending on the reference.

How far is the heater from the meter?

I would limit 1/2" to 50 feet.

Over 50 feet, I would use 3/4" pipe.
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lesjonpool said:
I cannot get my Rheem 406A with Honeywell gas valve to sustain heating.
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lesjonpool said:
The yellow flex pipe was installed by the plumber who installed the larger regulator.
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Appears to be a 24" long 1/2"ID gas connector. For natural gas, that is a line that can supply no more than 150K btu through it at the pressures used by a pool heater, less than half the heater's requirement. That results in destroyed heaters. Lots of soot.
For propane it is slightly more.
Flex line of 3/4" will get closer to 300K btu through it and the heater would work almost efficiently.
Most plumbers, unless they work on a lot of pools, are not familiar with the large amount of gas that a pool heater that size uses. Most home furnaces top out at 100K or less. Water heaters about 50K. Even a gourmet stove will use about 150k with all burners firing.
I have seen at least 5 heaters over the years that wouldn't even fire with flex line. Hard pipe it and no issues.
Is it harder? Yes! Does it take more time? Yes. Does it cost more? Yes.
 
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JamesW said:
Even a 3/4" gas line is too small for a flex pipe.


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As I said, "Close." I've seen them work on a 400K, though poorly, and always replaced them or no work would be done on any other piece of equipment. Anytime I ever saw flex in use has been a DIY installation, or "by my friend who's a plumber." The 1" ID variety is never seen. They are so expensive (about 2X) that a DIY or home plumber always incorrectly figures the 3/4" is good enough

Flex, though occasionally used outdoors, is not safe, especially in a pool environment, where access to the equipment is ongoing, not even the stainless-steel variety. Too much liability to leave it in place, even if it isn't being worked on. Its easily damaged. You note an unsafe condition, document it, give the customer the opportunity to have it corrected, or walk away. Have I lost customers? Yes. Have I ever been sued? No.
 
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