Mastertemp 400 w/ a PS error. Heater fires-up but cuts off after 4mins. Replaced the pressure switch but have the same issue. Funny thing is that it will stay on when heating the pool but when I heat the spa the same issue arises. Pool is about 68f. When heating the spa it sounds like water surging at the manifold. Baffled and greatly appreciate any direction.
New Member w/ a Heater Issue
- Thread starter JayCrain
- Start date
- Jun 7, 2017
- 9,321
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
Sounds like the problem is plumbing and not the heater. Can you post a pic of your plumbing?
PS error is a waterflow-error, not enough flow to keep the pressure switch closed. Dirty filter, clogged pump basket, RPM too low, clogged spa jet, bypass not closed, anything that interferes with water flow can cause that issue.
Pictures of everything?
Maybe a video (Post at YouTube and link).
How old is the heater?
Was the heater installed today or 30 years ago or what?
Did it ever work correctly?
What is the elevation of the heater relative to the pool?
What make and model of pump and what pump speed?
What is the filter pressure?
Maybe a video (Post at YouTube and link).
How old is the heater?
Was the heater installed today or 30 years ago or what?
Did it ever work correctly?
What is the elevation of the heater relative to the pool?
What make and model of pump and what pump speed?
What is the filter pressure?
Thanks for the reply!
Heater is 2 y/o and this is the first issue. Had an e5 error 2 weeks ago and it wouldn’t fire at all. Replaced the sfs and it started throwing the PS. Cleaned cartridges, filter basket etc and replaced the pressure switch.
Pump is within 1 foot of pool level. Pump is Hayward Superpump II.
Filter pressure is 14-15.
Heater is 2 y/o and this is the first issue. Had an e5 error 2 weeks ago and it wouldn’t fire at all. Replaced the sfs and it started throwing the PS. Cleaned cartridges, filter basket etc and replaced the pressure switch.
Pump is within 1 foot of pool level. Pump is Hayward Superpump II.
Filter pressure is 14-15.
Attachments
It seems like you should have enough pressure.
Is the pressure switch closing?
Check with a multimeter.
Is the pressure switch closing?
Check with a multimeter.
Thanks for the reply!
Heater is 2 y/o and this is the first issue. Had an e5 error 2 weeks ago and it wouldn’t fire at all. Replaced the sfs and it started throwing the PS. Cleaned cartridges, filter basket etc and replaced the pressure switch.
Pump is within 1 foot of pool level. Pump is Hayward Superpump II.
Filter pressure is 14-15
Appreciate the help.
Heater is 2 y/o and this is the first issue. Had an e5 error 2 weeks ago and it wouldn’t fire at all. Replaced the sfs and it started throwing the PS. Cleaned cartridges, filter basket etc and replaced the pressure switch.
Pump is within 1 foot of pool level. Pump is Hayward Superpump II.
Filter pressure is 14-15
No signs of mice. Will check with multimeter tomorrow. The fact that I have no problem heating the pool makes me think the issue is on the spa side. Considering a flow meter going into the heater.
Appreciate the help.
Also- when I cleaned the pump basket there was probably enough stuff in there to cause an issue initially.
Misspoke- closed when the filter came on in both modes. Opened when no flow.
Check the internal bypass and the thermal regulator.
This is usually a flow issue, so maybe a bad internal bypass or thermal regulator.
Pull the thermal regulator and look for the internal bypass disc at the top of the regulator pipe hole where the thermal regulator goes.
Look into the inlet to see if the internal bypass looks ok.
Internal bypass.
You can see the spring part if you look into the inlet.
You can see the disc part if you look into the thermal regulator hole.
This is usually a flow issue, so maybe a bad internal bypass or thermal regulator.
Pull the thermal regulator and look for the internal bypass disc at the top of the regulator pipe hole where the thermal regulator goes.
Look into the inlet to see if the internal bypass looks ok.
Internal bypass.
You can see the spring part if you look into the inlet.
You can see the disc part if you look into the thermal regulator hole.
Thanks for the detail- will check and get back. Away from the house so it’ll be a day or 2.
OK- the saga continues. Since my last post I spoke with Pentair and was advised that the control panel still registered a PS error with the switch bypassed, the control panel was likely the culprit. Switched out the control panel. Fired is up and an AFS error flashed when the blower came on and went away immediately. No LEDs on the back of the control panel. Checked intake and tubes for blockages. Same problem- heats for 3-4 minutes then turns off.
Thermal regulator opened at 120 and closed just below. Did notice something that looked like corrosion (green in pic).
Cant figure out what would cut the gas after 3-4 minutes. A flame sensor/ignitor issue shoulda’t take that long.
Looking for a stick of dynamite at this point.
Thermal regulator opened at 120 and closed just below. Did notice something that looked like corrosion (green in pic).
Cant figure out what would cut the gas after 3-4 minutes. A flame sensor/ignitor issue shoulda’t take that long.
Looking for a stick of dynamite at this point.
Attachments
Check the Stack Flue Temperature with the thermal Regulator in and with it out.
Exhaust Gas Temperature
While running, press and hold the On button to display the exhaust temperature (Older Models).
The new models use the Menu to get the SFS.
Here is what the normal exhaust temperature should be:
Below 250 degrees...very low
250 to 290 ..................low
290 to 350.................acceptable
350 to 480 ..................high
Above 480...................error/shutdown.
Note: HD models can be up to 75 degrees higher. HD models use a cupro nickel exchanger and the efficiency is slightly lower resulting in less heat transfer and more waste heat.
If the exhaust gas temperature is higher then normal then water may be bypassing the heat exchanger through a broken bypass valve.
If you hold down the "pool on" button, it stays on 80, then flashes to 40, then back to 80, then the 80/40 reading and E05 indicate that the board is not getting a reading from the sensor. It's usually a bad sensor or damaged wires.
www.troublefreepool.com
Exhaust Gas Temperature
While running, press and hold the On button to display the exhaust temperature (Older Models).
The new models use the Menu to get the SFS.
Here is what the normal exhaust temperature should be:
Below 250 degrees...very low
250 to 290 ..................low
290 to 350.................acceptable
350 to 480 ..................high
Above 480...................error/shutdown.
Note: HD models can be up to 75 degrees higher. HD models use a cupro nickel exchanger and the efficiency is slightly lower resulting in less heat transfer and more waste heat.
If the exhaust gas temperature is higher then normal then water may be bypassing the heat exchanger through a broken bypass valve.
If you hold down the "pool on" button, it stays on 80, then flashes to 40, then back to 80, then the 80/40 reading and E05 indicate that the board is not getting a reading from the sensor. It's usually a bad sensor or damaged wires.
Pentair MasterTemp Heaters - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com