Circupool Edge40 Installation

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tcpiii

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Feb 24, 2008
47
Charlotte NC
I'm planning to install a Circupool Edge40 this week and could use some help on wiring and plumbing.

Plumbing: We have a simple setup: no heater, no spa, no water features. There is plenty of space to install the unit and the flow switch. The complication is that both the former owner and myself have ignorantly installed dwv elbows numerous places. To get rid of them will require replacing almost all the plumbing that's more than 6" above the ground. How important is that?

Wiring: Prior to installing the VS pump, I used the pictured timer to run a 3/4 hp single speed pump. The VS pump is still wired to the ancient timer, the timer (3rd picture) never goes off and the VS pump is scheduled to run 24x7. I plan to mount the control box to the right (after replacing the rotting 2x4!). I could easily connect the control box to the 110v power in the nearby junction box (close up in the 4th picture). That, however, is on a separate circuit from the 220v line running the pump, and thus I would be dependent on the flow switch to turn off power to the SWG if something went wrong with the pump. Would you suggest a different wiring setup?

Additional consideration: I suspect we will be moving in a couple of years, so our time horizon on improvements has shortened...

Thanks for your help.

Pic 1.jpgPic 2.jpgPic 3.jpgPic 4.jpg
 
tcpiii said:
I'm planning to install a Circupool Edge40 this week and could use some help on wiring and plumbing.

Plumbing: We have a simple setup: no heater, no spa, no water features. There is plenty of space to install the unit and the flow switch. The complication is that both the former owner and myself have ignorantly installed dwv elbows numerous places. To get rid of them will require replacing almost all the plumbing that's more than 6" above the ground. How important is that?

Wiring: Prior to installing the VS pump, I used the pictured timer to run a 3/4 hp single speed pump. The VS pump is still wired to the ancient timer, the timer (3rd picture) never goes off and the VS pump is scheduled to run 24x7. I plan to mount the control box to the right (after replacing the rotting 2x4!). I could easily connect the control box to the 110v power in the nearby junction box (close up in the 4th picture). That, however, is on a separate circuit from the 220v line running the pump, and thus I would be dependent on the flow switch to turn off power to the SWG if something went wrong with the pump. Would you suggest a different wiring setup?

Additional consideration: I suspect we will be moving in a couple of years, so our time horizon on improvements has shortened...

Thanks for your help.

View attachment 556183View attachment 556184View attachment 556185View attachment 556186
Click to expand...
The installation of the SWG could easily be done while replacing the DWV fittings after the filter at the same time. Get a 2" pipe extender and use it at the last 90 going to the returns, cut out the rest of the fittings and install the cell and flow switch.
1709433838583.png
If that timer works, move the wires going to the pump to terminals 1 and 3, wire the SWG to 2 and 4. Install trippers and set the time you want the SWG to run in between the run times set on the pump.

As that old Intermatic is a T104 (indoor enclosure) and not a T014R (outdoor enclosure) it might be good to go ahead and replace it entirely. There are several less expensive time clocks in outdoor enclosures available, some even wifi controlled. The Intermatics are, basically, "bullet-proof" mechanical time clocks that have been used on the vast majority of pools for decades.

 
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If it were my pool, I would redo all the plumbing. PVC is cheap and easy to work with and adding the SWG is a good starting point to the project. I'd be more concerned about the flex hose/hose clamp connection..That said, assuming the DWV fittings are not leaking, there's no hurry.

Your timer can provide constant power to the pump and timed-switched power to the SWG. The pump should be connected to Terminals 1 and 3 and the SWG to Terminals 2 and 4.

As @1poolman1 mentioned, there are other timer options out there. Your's is open to the elements and is probably due for a replacement.

Best of luck!
 
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1poolman1 said:
The installation of the SWG could easily be done while replacing the DWV fittings after the filter at the same time. Get a 2" pipe extender and use it at the last 90 going to the returns, cut out the rest of the fittings and install the cell and flow switch.
View attachment 556254
If that timer works, move the wires going to the pump to terminals 1 and 3, wire the SWG to 2 and 4. Install trippers and set the time you want the SWG to run in between the run times set on the pump.

As that old Intermatic is a T104 (indoor enclosure) and not a T014R (outdoor enclosure) it might be good to go ahead and replace it entirely. There are several less expensive time clocks in outdoor enclosures available, some even wifi controlled. The Intermatics are, basically, "bullet-proof" mechanical time clocks that have been used on the vast majority of pools for decades.

Click to expand...
Thanks so much, @1poolman1. To be clear: The purpose of the pipe extender is to raise the pipe going to the returns so that there is one, straight, horizontal run from the filter to the elbow above the returns - correct?
 
tcpiii said:
Thanks so much, @1poolman1. To be clear: The purpose of the pipe extender is to raise the pipe going to the returns so that there is one, straight, horizontal run from the filter to the elbow above the returns - correct?
Click to expand...
It will allow you to use the proper PVC fitting from that point back to the filter, including the SWG. Yes, you can raise the pipe so that there is a straight run. Its a way to save the rest of the plumbing.
 
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