New Heater Installed, Check Valve is making things tough with a variable speed pump

May 7, 2013
50
Brookeville, MD
Pool Size
20000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool Core-55
Last season I had a new heater installed after 23 year with a Pentair Minimax, with a new Pentair heater and the shop also installed a Jandy 7305 backflow valve. It seems to work fine, but the issue I'm having is the backflow valve requires the pump be on full (almost 3,000 RPM) or else there is not enough pressure to open the valve.

While I appreciate the need to eliminate backflow from the salt generator upstream when it switches to a lower RPM, I don't want to run a variable speed pump at high RPMs just to make the heater work, and so I wondered if there was a backflow valve with a lower pressure rating that would allow the heater to run with the pump at 1500 RPM and still heat the pool.

My pool guy claims you can get lower pressure (strength) check valves, but I have yet to find specs on any of them that would let me determine if one is stronger than another. Is there such a thing as a pressure rating on check valves? Or is there an alternative that the heater can be adjusted for lower pressure?

Thanks.

EDIT: Looking in the installer's manual, I found this on page 44; this may be the easiest way of setting this so it works:
For deck-level heater installations, the Water Pressure Switch is factory set at 3.00 psi (20.6 kPa).NOTE: SEE, BELOW POOL LEVEL INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS ON PAGE 15. If the pressure switch is one feet (.3M) below or above the pool water level, reset the switch so that it is open when the pump is off and closed when the pump is running. Turn the star-wheel on the switch clockwise ( ) to raise setting (heater below the pool) and counterclockwise ( ) to lower the setting (heater above the pool – see Figure 40.
 
Last edited:
T,

The only time you need a check valve is if you have a chlorine tab feeder... The check valve prevents the low pH water inside the tab feeder from going backwards into the heater, when the pump is off.

SWCG's do not have this issue.. When they are off they are off.. There is nothing to drip backwards into the heater.

Your check valve is basically useless.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Adjusting the pressure switch should help. I don’t know if Pentair uses the same as Hayward but I have to adjust them because they come from the factory all the way down.
 

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You have to be careful about adjusting the pressure switch.

If you do not know exactly what you are doing, the heater can fire without flow and destroy the heater and possibly cause damages beyond the heater.
 
That valve takes only a tiny amount of pressure to open.

Something else is wrong.

Pictures?
It's a relatively simple hookup. When they installed the heater it did have a chlorine tablet feeder and I replaced it mid-summer with a salt generator. At that time I did remove the check valve, but my people who close the pool in the fall told me if anything went wrong, they'd look at the lack of a check valve and not provide warranty coverage.
 
T,

I doubt that the unit is going to fail under warranty, but if it does, they will find some excuse to say it is your fault anyway. :(

I'd take the guts out of the check valve and see if it makes any difference.. If it does great! If not, then just put the guts back in.

Personally, I don't take equipment advice from people that close or open pools.. :mrgreen:

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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