Alternatives when replacing Raypak 406A heater?

ajw22 said:

Nope.

Show us pics of why adjusting the plumbing is so difficult.

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Thanks; so far I've found no standardization of the vendors' geometries. I've been unable to find any other vendor that might be a drop-in fit except possibly an elevated Lochinvar ERN402. Does anyone have experience with those? Are they much more reliable than Raypak or Pentair?

While the pool & heater & salt system were professionally installed and maintained, it wasn't done well. For example, they installed a Raypak heater with a copper (rather than nickel-copper) heat exchanger in a saltwater pool; it corroded through quickly. They used three 90deg bends just between the filter and heater, and all of it is surrounded by an enclosure-limiting space. Some of the underground lines have been leaking at least since installation + 6 years; possibly from day 1. The salt system had totally failed by installation + 6 years.

Of course, you're right - I could cobble up some patch for a different geometry, or dig up, cut out and replace all the existing plumbing and redo it properly, but I'd rather avoid all that hassle and expense. Unless I can find something that's a fairly easy fit, I'll probably order another Raypak 406A, but this time with the nickel-copper heat exhanger in the hope that it's less corrosion-prone. Raypak is the devil I know; I've fixed it enough times already!

ajw22 said:

It is really not much better. Copper heat exchangers last many years in “salt pools” with the correct water chemistry.

I suggest you spend time learning about pool chemistry the way you have about mechanical repairs.

if you want to discuss the way you maintain your water chemistry we may be able to help the life of your next heater.

Pool Care Basics Archives

Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!

www.troublefreepool.com

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Thanks.

The previous owner professionally maintained (~$2K/yr) the pool for 6 years after construction, but the copper heat exchanger was leaking well before the end of that time based on the extensive corrosion and the salt system had completely failed. My wife has handled the chemistry in the 12 years since; during those years the leaking has only slowly increased. That leads me to suspect that it should have had the cupro-nickel to start. The pool chemistry is now probably as good as it's going to get.

INYO pools says on their website:

Cupro-nickel is an alloy of copper that contains nickel and other strengthening elements. Because of this, it is highly resistant to corrosion in salt water. Pool heaters with a cupro-nickel heat exchanger are recommended for customers with a salt pool. Using one with a cupro-nickel heat exchanger will extend the life of your heater.

The same message is reiterated in multiple places on their webpages and by other vendors. On the other hand, Raypak's website doesn't seem to say anything about the corrosion difference that I could find. My Raypak owner's manual doesn't list different chemistry specs for the different material heat exchangers (6000 ppm salt max, 2-3 ppm free cholorine). That Raypak manual has been very helpful troubleshooting & repairing my P-R406A-EP-C; I've had to replace various sensors, boards, wiring and igniters, some more than once. Apart from the actual heat exchanger itself, it shares all parts with the P-R406A-EP-X model.

Other than cost (>$300) and slightly decreased thermal conductivity and efficiency, are there any drawbacks to the nickel-copper option? Overall, the Raypak seems fairly reasonably designed, but their quality control on their parts suppliers is not great.

Thanks again.

just FYI - the new 2024 Raypak 406A has slightly different dimensions than my old 2006 406A...