Pool Pilot DIG-220 check flow in constant alarm condition

Turbine Doc · Posted: September 10th, 2010, 9:24 am

In this thread flashing-check-flow-t10282-20.html#p222003 which contains a lot of similar information and troubleshooting I posted this:

Turbine Doc wrote:

Howdy all, I'm new to the site great info,

I just downloaded the "pin-out" document, & went through the continuity & resistance checks of the tri-sensor and the harness.

No problems found there, I don't think lack of flow is a real issue as the pool vacuum (Kreepy Krawley) is still able to crawl the bottom, and up the sides; when I have had true flow problems in the past that does not happen.

Just to be sure I did tear down my pump, I saw some scoring in the case ring & impeller wear that wasn't bad but since I had a spare of each I changed those, slight improvement (negligible) to what I was seeing before I swapped case & impeller.

Backwash flow seems good in the waste/flush mode from the sand filter, there is some cavitation in the pump when in vacuum mode with bottom drain closed and skimmer suction only; the pump filter basket almost runs dry and the pump pulls very hard through that, there is also a lot of aeration in the pump's filter cover, I have found a few fitting leaks which I will be correcting tomorrow in daylight hours on suction fittings to the pump, possibly flow is being compromised by that to some degree primarily the valve stem packing gland for the bottom suction valve cut out seems to be sucking air a little, I'm hoping that fixes what is going on.

If I correct all the suspect fittings & I still have low flow alarm, what next a circuit board, any known tests to verify for the board ???

When checking the cell the salinity probes are very black, would poor conductivity in those cause low flow light?

Lastly when system is aligned for recirc or normal filter, I can see through the body of the lower crossover, and I can see that the check valve is unseating a little 1/8"-3/16" near as I can best tell, is this normal?

My apologies for being long winded but I wanted to cover all bases of what I have checked so far, oh BTW screen and & the cell itself are clear.

Tim

Rather than water down that thread with my own issues which may be similar but are different; I decided to post here in an independent thread.

This was followed up by a response by Bama Rambler:

Bama Rambler wrote:

The flow proof is a switch. If you put a jumper across the flow switch wires (pins 1 & 2) the low flow light should go out. If it doesn't then the board or cabling from the switch to the board is bad. To eliminate the cabling put a jumper between the middle pins (1 & 2) in the molex connector on the board. If you still get a low flow indication the board is bad.

CAUTION: DO NOT run the unit with the flow switch jumped except a few seconds for testing.

Turbine Doc · Posted: September 10th, 2010, 9:37 am

Additionally in the introduction forum I was asked what my current water chemistry was: "jacked up" would be the operative word, after much rain with SWG down the chlorine was down and we are near the end of a battle with algae bloom, it's settling to the bottom this morning following a floc treatment.

Just prior to that we ran a test at the pool store as I'm suspect of the test strips my wife had been using.

Alk 20
pH 6.4
CYA 0
hardness 100
Chlorine 10.3 (just shocked prior to sample) and 2 floaters with stabilized tabs in them

I added a little more than half 50# bag of sodium bicarb, test results recommended adding 29#, this was re-circed with the flock 4 hrs prior to shutting down. I'll be doing valve and plumbing maintenance going after the leaks that may be contributing to flow issues. Wife & I discussed this a little, possibly there were/are some plumbing joint issues after the tidal wave Katrina brought that are just now acting up on a system installed back in 86.

Bama Rambler · Posted: September 10th, 2010, 9:53 am

Adding 27# of baking soda will raise your TA by 88 for a total of 108. A little high by our standards but no problem.

With a pH of 6.4, (if we can believe that) you need to address that very soon. You need to add 2 boxes of 20 Mule Team Borax immediately.

The next thing you should do is order yourself a good test kit. I suggest the TF-100 (see my sig).

I highly suspect the CYA is NOT zero, especially given that you have two floaters in there now. With some reading here, you'll find that pool store numbers are little better than strips.

Poolsean · Posted: September 10th, 2010, 3:17 pm

Regarding the constant flow error, please check your manifold screen for debris, cell for scale formation, and manifold base check valve for debris that may be keeping it stuck in the opened position.
As per the check valve, turn the pump off and inspect the inlet side of the check valve. There is a red gasket that you should be able to see move opened and closed, when the pump is on and off, respectively. If it does not close, your flow is bypassing the manifold loop and not providing enough flow through the tri-sensor to activate it. Again, the red check valve should be observed to open and close with the pump on and off.

Yes, your water chem is JACKED!

--> EDITED: Sorry Tim, just actually READ your response, re: cell clean, manifold deflected slightly. If you're comfortable with a multimeter, bama has the instructions to test for continuity on the tri-sensor/tri-sensor cord to ensure they are working properly.

Turbine Doc · Posted: September 10th, 2010, 9:46 pm

Did the checks of the tri cell, and harness all are good, no blockages, I will try jumpering tomorrow in the main panel across pins for the flow switch to see if the flow alarm remains,

Pool Pilot DIG-220 check flow in constant alarm condition

Who is online