Ok every one thanks for all the help
My question is before I add the bleach to the pool should I back wash the filter to get some of the baqua out?
Next question I just ordered the tf 100 test kit but it wont be here till Tuesday. so i got a test kit at the pool store the clorine test only goes up to 5 is that parts per mill. If so how do I read 15 to keep the chlorine level at 15 over night ?///

I would be tempted to wait until you got the kit. It is s-o-o much eaqsier to clear or convert your pool when you can do your testing accurately.

That said, if this long weekend is compelling you to get started, you can dilute your test sample with distilled water to get an approximation of your FC. In other words, take a pool water sample and dilute it by 1 part pool water, two parts distilled water, then test for FC. A test result of 5 will, in reality be somewhere around fifteen. It is quite innaccurate but it is adequate to get you started then the FAS/DPD test (in the TF-100) will be great to finish up your process

You can make do with the simple test for the first part of the conversion, but you are going to need the fancy test kit to measure overnight FC loss in the later parts of the conversion.

For now, you want to add enough bleach/liquid chlorine to raise the FC level by 15 ppm, wait an hour (or more) and then use your simple test to see if there is any chlorine left or not. If you have the OTO test, drops added to the sample turn the sample yellow which is then compared to a color chart, you want to note the sample color right after the drops are added. If you wait very long the test will start registering the CC, which will be high, and CC doesn't count. So you are looking for the sample to be either clear or very pale yellow and then start to get darker yellow. If so you can go ahead and add another 15 ppm of chlorine. If the sample turns a solid yellow right away, then wait another hour or longer without adding more chlorine and then test again.

If you have the DPD test kit, drops added to the sample turn the sample various shades of red, which is compared to a color chart, then you can measure FC directly and only need to wait till the FC level is below 5 before raising it up to 15 again.

During the initial phase of the conversion, the FC level will fall very very quickly, and there is no need to measure high FC levels.

Hopefully you can follow that. If you have more questions or want clarification, just post again.

Unless you have another purpose, backwashing to reduce the baqua will have minimal effect. You're gonna' need your water later on, I's leave as much in as possible.