Pool green just a few days after cleaning/shocking

jblizzle · Posted: June 22nd, 2012, 4:59 pm

The refill is needed due to the CYA ... period. What makes you think you have elevated FC and TA?

Without posting a full set of results (even the dreaded pool store) it is hard to guess. It is also help to keep track of readings so you can see trends.

I would order the test kit. Then take a sample to a store and report the results. Then likely start replacing water.

@techguy ... currently only strips are being used for testing

llang31ll · **Joined:** June 21st, 2012, 8:34 pm **Posts:** 22

Just got back from the pool store for them to test my water.
This is what he got:
FAC 5
TAC 5
Ca hardness 250
CYA 100
TA 140
pH 8
Acid Demand 5
TDS 700
Phosphates 300

CYA is normal high so that's NOT the problem as it originally was thought to be from my crappy test strips.

The guy at the store tried to sell me a product that decreases phosphates to decrease the amount available for algae to eat but he was confused as to how the algae survived in the first place with a high FAC.

Any ideas?

jblizzle · Posted: June 22nd, 2012, 8:45 pm

that just shows up the pool stores think they know. Your CYA is still double what it should be so you still should probably do a 50 percent drain.

Posted with Tapatalk ... sorry if I sound short ... hate typing on phone

llang31ll · **Joined:** June 21st, 2012, 8:34 pm **Posts:** 22

jblizzle wrote:

that just shows up the pool stores think they know. Your CYA is still double what it should be so you still should probably do a 50 percent drain.

Posted with Tapatalk ... sorry if I sound short ... hate typing on phone

I am in the process of draining 50% of it. I only did 1 hr tonight but will likely finish tomorrow. After I refill what should I do? I was planning on bringing it to the pool store to get it tested again. I suppose I can post the numbers tomorrow and we can go from there?

jblizzle · Posted: June 22nd, 2012, 11:53 pm

If the best you can do is the results from theed pool store them that is what you have to work with.

You would then start the shock process. Read the process in pool school. You should quickly realize that doing out correctly without a test kit is near impossible as the required FC levels are so high.

Posted with Tapatalk ... sorry if I sound short ... hate typing on phone

techguy · Posted: June 22nd, 2012, 11:58 pm

Thanks for catching that JB.

Its amazing what accurate tests and truthful information will do to resolve the problem.

MattB · Posted: June 23rd, 2012, 2:54 am

llang31ll, while you drain, please post pictures of the areas of your plaster surface that has been breaking off if possible. How big are the pieces? How many? How often? How prevalent is the problem?

llang31ll · **Joined:** June 21st, 2012, 8:34 pm **Posts:** 22

It is about 50% drained. All the algae is still present at the deep end. Should I do anything about that before I refill it with fresh water? My plan was to fill it all the way then turn on the filter and then shock it. What do you guys think?

jblizzle · Posted: June 23rd, 2012, 1:04 pm

Fill it. Check levels. Adjust pH if needed. Start the shock process.

Posted with Tapatalk ... sorry if I sound short ... hate typing on phone

llang31ll · **Joined:** June 21st, 2012, 8:34 pm **Posts:** 22

MattB wrote:

llang31ll, while you drain, please post pictures of the areas of your plaster surface that has been breaking off if possible. How big are the pieces? How many? How often? How prevalent is the problem?

Attached is a picture of the area that the plaster is coming off of. It's primarily on the first step only. It's been slowing chipping away over the past 15 years. Each piece is about 2-3 inches wide.

aerangis · **Joined:** June 13th, 2011, 1:37 pm **Posts:** 6

llang31ll wrote:

Ok so I figured out why my CYA reading is so high- 10 years of using chlorine tablets usually 3-5 at a time. I gather that at this point I should:
1. Scrub algae off walls and floor
2. Drain pool by ~90%
3. Refill
4. Add Cyanuric Acid (Stabilizer) to ~30ppm
5. Switch to a non-stabilized chlorine from now on

How does this sound? Please let me know if I am missing something. Thank you all! :-D

If getting clean water to refill your pool isnt an issue, I'd suggest replacing all the water.

I was in the same situation as you are, shocking, brushing, checking my chemistry. I worked my butt off for two months chasing my tail and the pool would clear up a bit, but two days later the algae would bloom again. So I checked my cya, and sure enough, it was well over 100.

llang31ll · **Joined:** June 21st, 2012, 8:34 pm **Posts:** 22

The pool is done refilling and now I am going to shock it. I have chlorinating liquid of 10% sodium hypochlorite and packets of "shock treatment" that contain 53.5% of trichloro. Which should I use? Is it true trichloro has CYA in it? If so should I avoid it since my CYA Is currently in normal range and I don't want to up it again.
FC is at 1 and I want to bring it to 17 according to the CYA-FC chart

Butterfly · Posted: June 24th, 2012, 7:26 pm

llang31ll wrote:

The pool is done refilling and now I am going to shock it. I have chlorinating liquid of 10% sodium hypochlorite and packets of "shock treatment" that contain 53.5% of trichloro. Which should I use?
We recommend bleach/liquid chlorine.

Is it true trichloro has CYA in it? Yes

If so should I avoid it since my CYA Is currently in normal range and I don't want to up it again.Yes

FC is at 1 and I want to bring it to 17 according to the CYA-FC chart
We need to know the CYA test result to confirm this with you.

llang31ll · **Joined:** June 21st, 2012, 8:34 pm **Posts:** 22

Is there a FAS-DPD titration test by itself that I can buy without the other stuff? I did a quick Google search and it seems as though they only come in kits.

Bama Rambler · Posted: June 25th, 2012, 1:10 pm

You can buy just a FAS-DPD kit or even the individual parts of the kit in case you don't need the vial or scoop. See the link for Tftestkits in my or BF's sig.

jblizzle · Posted: June 25th, 2012, 3:03 pm

Are you able to test the CYA yourself already? Because that seems to be one that the pool stores struggle with ... saying there is CYA in water that 100% does NOT have any in it ... or showing lower levels than reality ... it is just a **** shoot.

If you do not have that capability, you should just get the K-2006 or TF-100 to have all the required tests.

Pool green just a few days after cleaning/shocking

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