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It is currently May 25th, 2012, 7:37 am
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Aquatica
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Post subject: pH and C.S.I. - which is most important?  Posted: November 22nd, 2011, 5:20 pm |
| In The Industry & Platinum |
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Joined: June 26th, 2010, 2:08 pm Posts: 432
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Hi Guys, I have problems getting enough CH in some pools as its not sold anywhere on the island. Most pools are ok as the fill water is usually very high in CH. I have to ship in CH from the U.S. So what I have been doing in the meantime is keeping the pH higher like around 7.8 Is this ok to do. pH is stable and does not move much at all. I'm trying to balance C.S.I. If the C.S.I. is good and balanced does it matter if pH is 7.8 or even 8.0? Here is an example of a pool I do this with: pool size: 8K gals FC: 6 < I'm lowering this. CC: 0 pH: 7.8 TA: 100 CH: 180 CYA: 60 SALT: 2,900 TEMP: 75F SWG: 30% C.S.I.: -0.17Thanks for any help. 
_________________ balance here: http://www.poolcalculator.com/ hayward error info: http://www.manulabo.com/Hayward/indexen.htm
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bobodaclown
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Post subject: Re: pH and C.S.I. - which is most important?  Posted: November 22nd, 2011, 8:48 pm |
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Joined: April 14th, 2011, 2:30 pm Posts: 494 Location: Lakeland, FL
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Numbers all look good. CSI looks to be in range. How's the water look? Even your FC is ok. I think I've read it's not a bad idea to keep your FC at 10% of your CYA. Here's a link for a good chlorine level chart: http://www.poolsolutions.com/gd/best-guess-swimming-pool-chlorine-chart.html
_________________ 17K Kidney Shaped Pool Concrete (Diamond Bright) Pool, 3/4 hp Sta-rite Duraglas PEA5D-180L, 1.5 piping, Pentair CC100 Filter , Heat Siphon 100K BTU Heat Pump Pool Heater , SWCG CPSC48, SmartPool Nitro SmartKleen NC22 robotic pool cleaner, Lakeland Florida
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PoolGuyNJ
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Post subject: Re: pH and C.S.I. - which is most important?  Posted: November 23rd, 2011, 7:34 am |
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Joined: May 20th, 2007, 4:29 pm Posts: 3053 Location: South Central NJ
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What kind of pool? Liner, plaster or f/g shell?
Scott
_________________ Owner of - PoolGuyNJ LLC Expert Pool and Spa Repairs, Renovations, and Augmentation. Helping people decide what is the right gear for meeting their needs. Expectations Set, Expectations Met, No Surprises.
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JasonLion
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Post subject: Re: pH and C.S.I. - which is most important?  Posted: November 23rd, 2011, 8:20 am |
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Joined: May 7th, 2007, 3:03 pm Posts: 23798 Location: Silver Spring, MD
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To compensate for low CH you will need to keep either TA or PH higher than you otherwise would. The main issue with raising TA to compensate, which is essentially where you are now, is that the PH will be less stable than it could be if you had CH up where it should be. If you lower TA, which will help stabilize the PH, you will need to allow the PH to drift up just a little more than where you have it now, say to 8.0, which isn't really a problem as long as CH remains low.
_________________ 19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot TFP Admin. Creator of The Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School
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Aquatica
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Post subject: Re: pH and C.S.I. - which is most important?  Posted: November 23rd, 2011, 9:34 am |
| In The Industry & Platinum |
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Joined: June 26th, 2010, 2:08 pm Posts: 432
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JasonLion wrote: To compensate for low CH you will need to keep either TA or PH higher than you otherwise would. The main issue with raising TA to compensate, which is essentially where you are now, is that the PH will be less stable than it could be if you had CH up where it should be. If you lower TA, which will help stabilize the PH, you will need to allow the PH to drift up just a little more than where you have it now, say to 8.0, which isn't really a problem as long as CH remains low. Great thanks Jason. I wasn't sure if going high on pH was going to stain or something. But if the CSI is good and slightly in the -0. then no possibility of staining? I have to retest the TA. It might be slightly lower now since pH doesn't move that much now. I bought 40 lbs of CH. Need to add 10 lbs to this pool. 
_________________ balance here: http://www.poolcalculator.com/ hayward error info: http://www.manulabo.com/Hayward/indexen.htm
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duraleigh
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Post subject: Re: pH and C.S.I. - which is most important?  Posted: November 23rd, 2011, 2:15 pm |
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Joined: April 1st, 2007, 8:12 am Posts: 11332 Location: Raleigh, NC
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Aquatica,
If you add 10 lbs of CH to the pool, your CH will around 300+ and there is now no reason for your pH to be high.
_________________ Dave S. Site Owner TFTestkits owner TFTestkits , Pool Calculator , Pool School
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JasonLion
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Post subject: Re: pH and C.S.I. - which is most important?  Posted: November 23rd, 2011, 2:33 pm |
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Joined: May 7th, 2007, 3:03 pm Posts: 23798 Location: Silver Spring, MD
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Normally staining is not a problem with a PH of 8.0. Still, the risk of staining does go up as the PH goes up. If you are already using sequestrant to avoid stains you may need to increase the amount of sequestrant you are using to compensate for the slightly higher PH.
I should add that more or less everything discussed so far is micro management, which is hardly every worth the trouble.
_________________ 19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot TFP Admin. Creator of The Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School
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chem geek
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Post subject: Re: pH and C.S.I. - which is most important?  Posted: November 23rd, 2011, 3:58 pm |
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Joined: March 28th, 2007, 2:40 pm Posts: 5410 Location: San Rafael, CA USA
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Aquatica wrote: But if the CSI is good and slightly in the -0. then no possibility of staining? The CSI has nothing to do with metal staining. It only tells you if calcium carbonate is over-saturated so can precipitate or scale or if it is under-saturated so can dissolve from plaster and grout. It also doesn't tell you how fast. With reasonably well-made plaster, a somewhat negative saturation index isn't going to noticeably dissolve the plaster. Likewise, a somewhat positive saturation index isn't going to result in scaling. That's why we allow for a range. In practice, for scaling, we usually don't see it until the CSI is around +0.7 or +1.0 or higher in most pools. In spas, I've seen reports starting at around +0.3 mostly in the heater. Of course, with newer plaster that is curing, the pH near the plaster surface is much higher than the bulk water and in saltwater chlorine generator cells the pH is much higher at the hydrogen gas generation plate so scaling in these areas can occur even though the CSI is zero or a little negative in the bulk pool water. The only risk from the higher pH is that of metal staining -- the higher the pH, the higher the risk. However, the pH at which staining actually occurs will depend on the quantity of metal ions in the pool. If you have zero or very low metal content in the water, then a high pH is no problem.
_________________ 16,000 gallon outdoor in-ground 16'x32' plaster pool; Pentair Intelliflo VF pump; Pentair IntelliTouch i9+3s control system; Jandy CL-340 square foot cartridge filter 12 Fafco solar panels; Purex Triton PowerMax 250 natural gas heater (200,000 BTU/hr output); automatic electric pool safety cover; 4-wheel pressure-side "The Pool Cleaner"
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Aquatica
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Post subject: Re: pH and C.S.I. - which is most important?  Posted: November 23rd, 2011, 4:35 pm |
| In The Industry & Platinum |
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Joined: June 26th, 2010, 2:08 pm Posts: 432
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chem geek wrote: Aquatica wrote: But if the CSI is good and slightly in the -0. then no possibility of staining? The CSI has nothing to do with metal staining. It only tells you if calcium carbonate is over-saturated so can precipitate or scale or if it is under-saturated so can dissolve from plaster and grout. It also doesn't tell you how fast. With reasonably well-made plaster, a somewhat negative saturation index isn't going to noticeably dissolve the plaster. Likewise, a somewhat positive saturation index isn't going to result in scaling. That's why we allow for a range. In practice, for scaling, we usually don't see it until the CSI is around +0.7 or +1.0 or higher in most pools. In spas, I've seen reports starting at around +0.3 mostly in the heater. Of course, with newer plaster that is curing, the pH near the plaster surface is much higher than the bulk water and in saltwater chlorine generator cells the pH is much higher at the hydrogen gas generation plate so scaling in these areas can occur even though the CSI is zero or a little negative in the bulk pool water. The only risk from the higher pH is that of metal staining -- the higher the pH, the higher the risk. However, the pH at which staining actually occurs will depend on the quantity of metal ions in the pool. If you have zero or very low metal content in the water, then a high pH is no problem. Thanks Chem. The swg cells tend to scale easily as you say. I try to keep csi like around -0.2 to -0.1 this seems to keep the cells clean. The pools stays in balance once the pH is locked in the csi doesn't move much. I will definitely be keeping some CH on hand from now on. and I really need to order some test kits to test for metals. 
_________________ balance here: http://www.poolcalculator.com/ hayward error info: http://www.manulabo.com/Hayward/indexen.htm
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