Just thought I would add to the collective experience we have here.

The salt sensor failed on a 5 month old unit. Warranty repair took 3 weeks.

It has now failed again, 2 days after repair.

So far, Pentair has been responsive if not quick. We will see how the latest problem gets handled.

At this point, with the experience here coupled with my own, I would not buy another Pentair SWG again.

I will let you know the outcome.

That is very unusual.
How did you determine it was the sensor? Like most cells, it uses conductivity to determine salinity.
Where was the dealer?

Scott

Agreed; sounds like something else is going on.

There may be another problem, although he said he replaced the salt sensor. The tech said he would come by this week.

The symptoms were/are salt low, red light, cell off with 4000 ppm salt.

Over the summer the low salt light would come on, never flashing, always red solid, showing the cell off. True enough, it would not produce chlorine until I raised the salt level.

After the third time this condition repeated, I bought some salt test strips and checked the level before I added salt. Showed 4000 ppm in 3 different tests.

The rest of my numbers are right on TFP standards.



Sent from my A500 using Tapatalk

Well, please keep us updated.

>> After the third time this condition repeated, I bought some salt test strips and checked the level before I added salt. Showed 4000 ppm in 3 different tests.

ask the tech to analyze the cell using a pentair intelliwand, it will also measure salt level but more importantly, show all the powerlevels and runtimes historically, ie. analyze the lifespan of the cell in hh:mm:ss

As another reference, I've got a Pentair IC-40. The only problem I had with the original was that one of the LED lights didn't work. It took them about 2 weeks to come out and replace the unit, although I wasn't in a hurry since it was working well. I got a new one and it has run all season without issue.

I have a similar situation where the ic-40 shows "low salt" right now (2500ppm), it is still generating chlorine though untill approx 2300 ppm according to pentair. The taylor test has consistently shown approx 700 to 1000 ppm higher than the ic-40. I think the sensors in these arnt that accurate, or at least the one I got. one day this summer it was reading low salt (2700 ppm), the next day it was good (3300 ppm), the next day low salt again. (2600ppm). Kind of lame if you ask me.

HMMM, I know this post is kinda old and I like to explain things.

1) When using SWG, Keep you eye on your other chemicals, PH, TA, CH, Temp, Etc.
2) Keep note on your SI Index.

Based on the water passing in the cell will determined the voltage that is pulled off those blades.
The cell use that voltage based on the water temp to find out the salt readings. (This is why they tell you to clean the cell too)
If the voltage pull is wrong then the readings will also be wrong.

Its not that the cell is showing readings jumping around. Its your water chem thats jumping around due to the water temp changing or something else.

Always look at the SI!! If your pool store tells you that they dont know what it is then find another pool store lol

After they replaced mine a week ago the salt reading from the ic-40 has been steady at 3450ppm, my test 3600ppm, the warranty guy 3400ppm. Seems like its working right now, the old unit was reading approx 2400ppm when it was replaced.

I've had good success in matching tested & Cell reported via IntelliWand salt readings on two family pools and my own, sticking to a very precise testing schedule and keeping all values tightly in range. I've also cleaned filters once a month (all cartridges so quick and easy) even when not required. It helps to have the acid injection occur into the line before the IC40 cell, apparently keeping the blades clean with small measured bursts of MA.