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It is currently May 25th, 2012, 6:24 am
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Sprocket
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Post subject: OCLT Question  Posted: September 15th, 2011, 3:10 pm |
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Joined: August 29th, 2011, 7:23 pm Posts: 57 Location: Central Florida
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I'm continuing to post updates on my other thread but I have a quick question.
We are getting close to finishing the shock process. When I get home from work, I plan to test FC and add any needed chlorine. How long do I need to wait before re-testing FC for purposes of the OCLT test? Pool School says at least 30 minutes. Is anything longer than that and dark out OK?
Once we pass the test, do we then allow FC to dissapate until it nears our target of 7 for CYA of 60 before running a new full set of tests?
_________________ 21,000 gallon Diamond Brite Blue, Hayward Star Clear Plus 1200 Cartridge filter, Polaris 280 (I think), TF-100 Test Kit.
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linen
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Post subject: Re: OCLT Question  Posted: September 15th, 2011, 3:25 pm |
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Joined: July 30th, 2010, 8:56 am Posts: 1784 Location: Minnesota
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I usually wait an hour, it depends how much circulation you have. Having it be dark when you are testing is optimal since there is no UV on the water to reduce FC. Also, make sure you test in the morning before the sun hits the pool.
Make sure you pass all three "done shocking" criteria (see my sig), but then allow FC to drop to 5-9 level (used poolcalculator, do not let it drop below 5 if you can help it). Then you should start regular daily and weekly testing...not sure of what you meant by "running a new full set of tests".
Good luck on the OCLT!
_________________ Going to Pool School and learning the BBB method of pool care with a TF100 test kit that helps me use the Pool Calculator to properly maintain the water in my: Round AGP 11K gal (free on CL) with a deep end, Meteor 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 4 2ftX20ft Sungrabber panels, Intex SWCG (copper bars removed), and Borates. Also a Rubadub hot tub and a UDS (Ugly Drum Smoker) poolside. If your water has you worried, do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test (OCLT), and if you fail, then follow the Shocking Process until: 1. CC is less than 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less and, 3. The water is crystal clear.
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Sprocket
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Post subject: Re: OCLT Question  Posted: September 15th, 2011, 3:51 pm |
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Joined: August 29th, 2011, 7:23 pm Posts: 57 Location: Central Florida
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linen wrote: I usually wait an hour, it depends how much circulation you have. Having it be dark when you are testing is optimal since there is no UV on the water to reduce FC. Also, make sure you test in the morning before the sun hits the pool.
Make sure you pass all three "done shocking" criteria (see my sig), but then allow FC to drop to 5-9 level (used poolcalculator, do not let it drop below 5 if you can help it). Then you should start regular daily and weekly testing...not sure of what you meant by "running a new full set of tests".
Good luck on the OCLT! Thanks. I'm running a fairly high FC rate due to the CYA of 70. By new full set of tests I guess I meant pH, TA, etc. We've only been checking FC since starting the shocking. We went with limited pump use for about a week and in FL that's not good. When we received our test kit, pH was pretty high and we used the pool calculator to add MA. We never checked pH after that to confirm because we immediately started the shocking process.
_________________ 21,000 gallon Diamond Brite Blue, Hayward Star Clear Plus 1200 Cartridge filter, Polaris 280 (I think), TF-100 Test Kit.
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linen
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Post subject: Re: OCLT Question  Posted: September 15th, 2011, 3:54 pm |
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Joined: July 30th, 2010, 8:56 am Posts: 1784 Location: Minnesota
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ph should be the only test affected by high FC. Above 10 ppm FC, pH testing typically reads higher than it would be once FC is below 10 ppm. However, there is no harm in waiting to test the rest until the FC has dropped.
_________________ Going to Pool School and learning the BBB method of pool care with a TF100 test kit that helps me use the Pool Calculator to properly maintain the water in my: Round AGP 11K gal (free on CL) with a deep end, Meteor 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 4 2ftX20ft Sungrabber panels, Intex SWCG (copper bars removed), and Borates. Also a Rubadub hot tub and a UDS (Ugly Drum Smoker) poolside. If your water has you worried, do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test (OCLT), and if you fail, then follow the Shocking Process until: 1. CC is less than 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less and, 3. The water is crystal clear.
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