Hello all, (First Post WOOT! WOOT!)

I am in Canada and i just had a new Riviera 34 by Leisure Pools (fiberglass) with a salt water system installed this summer.



It is now time to close the pool and the local company wanted $275 to do this which I thought was crazy so I have a few questions, ok alot of questions after browsing this site and tackling this task myself.

1. I understand that I need to bring the pool up to shock level but I don't have a proper testing kit yet to test this, but there is a super chlorination setting on my Pentair Intellichlor. Do I run this? or is that something totally different?

Here is my pump setup:



2. Do I disconnect all my the connections I have marked above?
3. Should I buy Duck Plugs or just regular rubber plugs?
4. I understand I pull the plugs (have to find them first) out of the Filter and Heater but after it is done draining do I need to do anything else to make sure all the water is completely out?

This is my pool:



5. Living in Canada I think it is best that I drain the water below the returns, to do this I need to drain the water 2ft. below the top of the deck. Should I be carefull not to drain to far with a fiberglass pool?
6. Do I blow the water out of the lines back to the pump? or should I blow both ways?
7. For the returns (they are spa jets) do I need any special tool to take them apart so I can blow them out and insert the plugs?
8. At my waterfall my line splits into 3 underneath the top rock (see image below of waterfall) do I plug these holes as well?
9. The distance from my pool to the pad is about 80ft to 100ft. I have a large shop vac, do you think this will be strong enough to blow the lines out?
10. From my understanding I need 1 gallon of Anti-freeze for every ten feet. I have a skimmer (it has two holes which I assume branches into 1 line), returns, and waterfall - so I need 30 gal. of anti-freeze. Does that sound correct?
11. After I add the anti-freeze should I blow the lines till I see some anti-freeze come out the other end to make sure it is all the way through the lines?
12. I have two lights in my pool and the installer didn't leave me with enough line to let them sit at the bottom of the pool (gave him **** for that) is it ok to have the lights sit on top of the deck?

Now the tricky part, here is a look at my waterfall:



When I had my landscaper design the waterfall I never took into consideration how I would put the winter cover on. My pool guy gave me a winter cover but I don't think it is large enough to go right over the waterfall.

13. Any ideas on how I install my winter cover with the waterfall right on the edge? or should I go and get another cover that is large enough to go right over the top of the waterfall so I can put the bags on the back side to hold it down?

14. Should I use an air pillow under my cover? what are the cons if I don't?

15. Until it gets cold enough should I be pumping off the rain water that collects on the winter cover?

Thanks to any of you who can clear these questions up for me!

Thought of another question,

Do I remove the flap (not sure what it is called) that is just inside the opening of the skimmer? or leave it in?

I like the idea of the pool noodle in the skimmers instead of the gizmo, how do I keep them from floating? would I put some cut up pieces into a mesh back and weigh it down? or do I just fill the whole skimmer up with peices of pool noodle?

Newbie closing IG pool for first time!!! & (First Post WOOT! WOOT!)
makes me a idy tity bit worried

If i were you id call your local or not so local pool company... You are new to pools and the The pool is brand new to you so having a ton of questions is COMPLETELY NORMAL but since you and Mr. pool are new friends Id rather see you spend the $275 and not be responsible if something is broken from incorrect winter prep...Which could be something that causes you to be writing a check in the spring for thousands if its your fault.. then that $275 wouldnt be sounding so bad i only say this because i see it every year... and i get it 275 is a nice chunk, why dont you have the installer close the pool? I did not read your entire post so if that was a question already answered/or a stupid question i apologize...usually if the builder closes it, Mr pool keeps plumbing warranty and any other warranty the builder/installer included ...you close it, no more warrany for Mr pool or atleast on plumbing...not sure how long you and Mr pools friendship would last after that
sorry im a little kooky tonight

good luck! be smart not thrifty

I dont recommend your noodles in the skimmers, eh?
Gizzmo, with blowout is best

Hmmm......Not really the response I was expecting from this forum.

If the questions are answered above where do you think I would possibly go wrong causing major damage?

1. Without a proper test kit you won’t be able to tell when you get to shock level. You can dilute the sample with chlorine free water if you have an OTO test kit.
2. If it were me, I’d disconnect all the places you have marked even if it’s not completely required.
3. Either type plugs will work.
4. After pulling the plugs and draining I’d blow a little air through them just to make sure they’re drained.
5. Since I don’t live where it freezes, I don’t know how far is safe but I would be careful with a fiberglass pool.
6. I always blow from the pump toward the pool. I doubt it matters either way as long as you get 99% of the water out.
7. I’ll have to let someone else handle the spa questions.
8. If they’re above the waterline I’d just blow them out and leave them open.
9. No. I highly doubt a shop vac will be strong enough to blow the lines out. Try it but don’t be surprised if it doesn’t work.
10. If you blow the lines out well and plug them you don’t need any antifreeze.
11. See # 10.
12. On top of the deck is where they’re supposed to sit. Not on the bottom of the pool.
13. I’d go for the larger cover.
14. There are people that use one (myself included) and people that don’t. I don’t think it’s a problem either way.
15. Yes. Keep as much water off the cover as you can. I’d use an automatic pump.

We've had our pool for 8 years and I still won't close it myself, even though we do all other maintenance ourselves. I think the $275 is money well spent, especially if you're new to pools. Just my opinion.

I think your best bet is to hire the pool guy to close the pool and then ask to video tape the procedure. You can record how the pool guy does it and then see if you are up to the challenge. When it comes to winterizing a pool your goal is to evacuate all the water you can out of the plumbing and systems etc. Most pool guys use specialized blowers called cyclone vacs. Every pool is unique and I hate to say try it yourself and then forget one step and end up with a hefty bill in the spring.

which was my whole point.

I'm a big DIY advocate. But with a new pool in 2004, I had the PB's service company winterize it the first year and open it the next spring. This is despite over 50 years of family experience closing the pool that was replaced. I simply could not accept the risk that there was a design or installation flaw that would result in a leak the first winter. I was absolutely certain the PB would blame me for any eventual problem if I closed myself--don't get me started on lousy warranty service by Anthony-Sylvan.

I took advantage and observed closely the way they closed and opened the pool that first year. They have not been back since Spring 2005, but it was worth spending the money the first year. Truth is, I do a much better job that they did.

Almost forgot, I know I offer it as a service so you might want to call around and see if anyone in your area does. Basically you can save some cash if you have them winterize the plumbing & equipment. What I mean is some companies offer different levels of service. For example in my case I charge like 1/3 the price If I come there and winterize the returns, skimmers, etc. and the equipment. Customer takes care of lowering the water level, vacuuming, removing ladders and dive, and attaching cover.