Bought a new cell for my aqua rite system after jb weld stopped working for crack leaks, new cell says its 1300, pool supply store tested it to 4100!!!! Help!!!! Don't know which setting display is instant salt lvl as my control panel only has the switch and push button beside display after 5 to 6 pushes its back to salt

Got home and tried above steps to reset the clorinator the instant salt lvl stays at 1300 and this is clearly wrong the water is so salty I can taste it, any suggestions? is my new cell bad?

If you haven't already, give it 24 hours before looking at the salt reading. The unit averages the salt level over 24 hours, so the reading is normally wrong when you first hook up a new cell.

After talking to a few local installers it seems the prior to 08 aqua rite systems have trouble adapting to newer t cells and the problem is basicly incurable with out upgrading the control board

Did you unplug the cell, power up, then scroll through the diagnostics button to see if you can select your cell?

Have you recalibrated? Diagnostic Button-> Instant Salinity -> Switch to Super Chlorinate position -> and switch back to Auto. This should recalibrate. (I think thats the right combo)

Says he did that. (first post)

I just went through the exact same problem with my pro logic system with a T-Cell 15. I had 4300ppm salt reading from the store and my chlorinating system read 1300ppm. The problem is the salt level is so high that the T-Cell will not activate. To fix the problem drain the pool about a foot, and add fresh water to reduce the salt ppm down to 3200. Once you get the salt level below 3600 ppm (if it’s like my pool system) the turbo cell will activate and you will then get the proper reading on your chlorinating system.

Chuck

I operate three pools using Aqua Rite systems. Although the system is supposed to shut down over 3700ppm, I had one pool that was mistakenly raised to 4200ppm. The cell did NOT shut down, but rather continued as per normal, although I had to drop the dial to minimum (5%) to keep the FC down under 5. So interestingly, sometimes they do not shut down!

When you first recieve your Aqua Rite, there is an orange sticker that may have been removed by now, which directs you to do two things:
1) Set your cell time! Push the Diagnostic button until you see "T-##" and change it to match your cell type (T-15?).
2) Let the Aqua Rite run for 24 hours in the Off position to let the salt reading calibrate. THEN turn the system on.

If you haven't followed these steps, you may want to try. If you lower your salt level severely by dilution, you may want to turn the system off for 24hrs to let it recalibrate as well.

Also, since it is not documented, the settings shown when you press the Diagnostic button are:
- Salt ppm (default display, will return here if left alone for several seconds)
- Temperature (in F by default, there is a setting to change to C if you desire)
- Instant Salinity (shows 0 if cell is not active)
- Dial Setting - the only true way to see what you are set at - the label can be off by up to 15% on some units. (Shows like "25P" for 25%)
- Current Voltage
- Current Amperage
- Cell Type
- Something else I can't recall now

Knowing this helped me out some in my maintenance - especially the 4th item!
I THINK I have those in the right order (I am unsure about #3, it may be something else and Instant Salinity in another position)... I have it written down somewhere. Maybe someone else can confirm.