So I have a 3 way diverter valve going to my pump and a second on the return side. The Gaskets are worn out and I can not find a replacement for them. I have a waterco valve and a caretaker valve. The valves are the older style that the handle is riveted on so you can not just remove the internals and replace them like the newer jandy style ones. Debating if I should cut them out and re-do the plumbing but I am not sure if I would be in over my head since as you can see in the pics I would have to dig a little and put a coupler in since there is not more pipe room. Also the return side has what appears to be a 2" to 1.5" reducer on there. Do they make a valve with a 1.5" on the right side or should I just do the same and put a reducer? Also 2 screws on each valve appear to have stripped the plastic grooves due to being overtightened The Salt cell in there would be removed as well since the control unit and cell were shot when we moved in been treating it with tablets.

So I have decided to dig up the pipes and replumb my equipment. I had ordered the Jandy Valves several months ago and finally getting around to doing it. Have a couple questions if you don't mind. Any particular type of pvc cement recommended? I bought christy's red hot and some primer. Also picked up 20 feet of 2" pipe from Lowes (charlotte brand I think). I am going to be moving the valves about a foot further away from the equipment. Would you recommend putting a union between the inlet valve and the pump and another between the filter and outlet pump? Someone at a local pool store was highly against it because its just another part that can go bad he said. Also there is a hose spigot between the pump and filter to drain to waste and it came in handy when we had some heavy rain so thinking of putting that in again.

Any other thoughts or suggestions are highly encouraged and welcomed

The handles are held on by a roll pin which can be punched out but the fact that you can't find parts makes that moot.

Jandy, etc. makes a valve that will accept 1½" and 2" piping so that alleviates the need for the reducer.

Working with PVC isn't very hard just be sure to measure precisely before you cut and especially before you glue.

thanks for the info Bama. I forgot to mention the 1.5" pipe is on the right side of the jandy valve but the other 2 pipes on the valve (inlet and second outlet) valve are both 2". Do they make such a valve where one outlet is 1.5" and the others 2"? The first valve going to the pump has all 2" piping . I was doing some more work today and droped the salt cell and now there is a leak where one of the connection probes would hook into the cell.
This project just became a priority so need to start ordering some valves. Can you recommend a place to order from? My local pool store wants $75 for each valve and other place is $100 per valve.
Also if this was your pad can you recommend anything I might as well do/add/remove? Was thinking of putting in a union between the filter and return valve. I have not removed that big nut from the filter is that just like a compression. Besides pipe, pvp glue, teflon tape and hacksaw or sawzaw any other things I will need?

The way they work is that all of the ports will accept either 1-1/2" or 2" pipe so it'll work great for your installation.
I would use unions everywhere I could. That big nut is like a union half.

If you become a supporter of the forum, you can get a discount at poolandspasupplystore.com ... valves end up being around $40-50 each depending on the valve.

You should be able to find them online for under $50 each.

Now just waiting on the valves to arrive and looks like will need to also get the valve kit/bulkhead adapter for my filter looks like a rubber seal with pvc on one end to be glued to the plumbing and other end gets screwed onto the filter like a union. Thinking of digging back the lines a bith to the edge of the curbing that you see in the pic to allow for a union before the filter and to possibly move the equipment couple inches away from the wall. Question I have is when I cut the pip am I going to start taking on water coming back from the pool?

Your pool should be below the equip so no water will come out.

Usually the equipment is above the pool water level, but mine has the pool water level about in the middle of the pump basket, so if I cut anything below that ... I get water from the pool heading my way. I am getting ready for a pad re-do and am going to have to plug the skimmer suction hole and an old capped suction line that I am going to start using again ... so that I can work with the piping underground.

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