I ran into some problems with the pool installer, but my pool is finally filled with water!!! After it was not installed correctly, the pool was leaking. I had to go to the pool store to tell him that they had to either give me my money back or tear down the pool and install it the right way. So the pool is now rebuilt and filled with water again.

I have an 18' X 33' AGP (14800 gal.). Well the TF-100 says...

FC - 0
pH - 7.2
TA - 30
CYA - 0

If I understand the pool calculator (using 14800 gal. of pool water),
I need to add 123 oz. of bleach,
25 oz (by weight) of borax to raise the pH to 7.6,
174 oz. (by wt.) of baking soda to increase TA to 80,
and 79 oz. (by wt.) of stabilizer to increase CYA to 40.

Does all of that sound correct?

Now, I have a 3 lbs. bottle of stabilizer, made by aqua chem, that is 100% CYA in a pebble like form. I've read on here that you should put it into a sock in the skimmer and not just to pour it in when you have a vinyl liner. I need 5 lbs. of CYA, according to the pool calculator. That would be one big sock! The bottle states that I can pour it straight into the skimmer, but again, 5 lbs is a lot of CYA. I guess my question is...should I just put it into a sock and stick it in my skimmer? Does it make a difference that it is pellets instead of a tablet?

Here is the link to the pic of my pool
http://www.troublefreepool.com/jb2u-here-new-pool-owner-t36383.html

Those calculations look ok. I would leave your pH alone. It should rise on it's own.

For the CYA, the sock way is the best way. What you can do is periodically squeeze the sock to help the CYA disperse. CYA takes a few days to dissolve anyway and it is something that can go slowly. You will need to probably do it in stages since you won't be able to get all of the CYA dose into the sock all at once.

Thank you so much for your response. I'll get started on the CYA in a sock then. I already poured the bleach in.

The sock method usually places the sock in front of a return, not in the skimmer.

If you don't have a convenient way to hang the sock full of CYA in front of a return, someone recently suggested hanging it off a pool noodle and let it drift around that way.

Thank you. I guess I could use two socks since it does not go in the skimmer.

I have another problem. While filling up the pool, I noticed a greenish tint (I have a blue liner),
but I thought maybe it was just an optical illusion. Anyway, The pool is full and it is
greener now. I added the bleach yesterday. I then added some "shock" today. Could I just use
a bunch of bottles of clorox? And if so, how do I know how many to put in?

Sorry for all the questions!!

Following the shocking process: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/shocking_your_pool. Hopefully the "shock" you put in was liquid chlorine? Shocking a pool is a process and not a product.

Read link above and then get comfortable with the [url]poolcalculator.com[/url]

Well I was at work, and in a panic, told my wife just to go buy the "shock". I know I read on here that "shock" is a process and not a product, but I was at work and unable to go to TFP. I regret that now, but I was concerned about the pool already being green, and wanted to fix it as soon as possible.

So, if I understand the "shocking your pool" link correctly, I need to look at my CYA, which right now is 0, because I have not put my sock in the water yet. From my understanding, I will not get an accurate reading on my CYA for about a week, correct? So, what do I use as my CYA number (the lowest CYA number on the chart is 20) to get how much bleach to shock with? Going by this lowest number of 20...I would use a target number for my FC of 10. Right? Which means I should pour in 307 ozs of bleach, if my FC is 0. I would do this, retest in an hour and then repeat this process based on each test result, as many times as I can, but no more than once an hour, at least two times a day..and until CC is 0.5 or lower, an overnight FC loss test shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less, and the water is clear. Is that all correct?

If you have no CYA in the pool yet, we would recommend getting 20 ppm in there right away. Then shock your pool with the assumption of a CYA level of 20 ppm, even if it has not totally gone to solution yet or shown up in test. An target of 10 ppm is correct as a minimum, you want to be always above that level until the shocking process is finished.

To be most effective, you need to be able to accurately test. I like the TF100 test kit, see: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/pool_test_kit_comparison. I would get one on order ASAP. It will save you time and money in the long run.

I think you got it right! Now get on with it

Thank you linen. I already have the TF-100 (wonderful!!). I also put my sock of CYA in the pool with enough to bring my CYA to 40. Thank you for all of your help. It is greatly appreciated.

You bet! Use 40 ppm for your CYA when calculating you minimum shock level.

Using 40 ppm as my CYA, my goal is 16. Using my trusty TF100, my FC is up to 18 with 0 CC.

Yep, sounds like you got it!

Test hourly at first and re-dose to shock level. If it's loosing 2ppm an hour still when you hit the sheets, dose it up a few ppm above shock level (use your hourly history to judge how much) and then check it first thing in the am. It will start to loose less and less chlorine and you won't need to test as often, you'll get a feel for it.

Squish that sock of CYA frequently. If it's HTH brand, 40ppm should disperse in about 4 or 5 hours if you squish it regularly. Assume it's in there if you put it in. I was able to test CYA at 24 hours post addition this year with the HTH but the standard is to wait a week for it to register. It doesn't matter much, if you put 40ppm into the pool... it's in there.

OK..I worked all day; so, I told my wife to add a 182 oz. jug of bleach every two hours. The FC was 18 the night before. I came home and tested the FC was 25, CC 0.5 (maybe?). I added another 182 oz. jug of bleach and tested two hours later. My FC is 30, CC 0.5. (I'm still not sure about the CC being 0.5 I'd say that it does turn a very slight pink after I add the 5 drops of R0003 and then back to clear after adding 1 drop of R0871).

I do not seem to be losing any CL and I don't really have any CC.

Wouldn't the CC be rising if there was bleach eating the algae? Or am I keeping that "at bay" due to the fact that I keep adding bleach?

My pool has a green tint, but the walls and bottom of the pool are not slimy at all. The green tint was there as we were filling up the pool. Isn't that odd?

The first time we filled up the pool, before they had to tear it down and rebuild it, the pool water was clear. Any chance that this green tint is not algae at all??

FC 30
CC 0.5?
CYA 40
pH 7.2

Is the green CLEAR green, or CLOUDY green? Are you filling from a well by chance? Also, exactly what chemicals have you added. It is possible for your water to be clear green, which would most likely not be algae.

I'd say it is pretty clear when you look straight down into the pool you can see the bottom easily. I do not have a well. The thing that gets me is that the first time we filled up the pool it was beautiful. Then, it was not installed properly and the liner was leaking, so the PB had to rebuild it and put in a new liner (same make and color blue as the last one). However, from the start of filling it up the second time, it looked a little green. I just don't know what it could be, if not algae. I know it can take up to a week to clear up, but I'd hate to keep buying bleach, if that is not my problem.

I've put in, I think, 9 182oz bottles of bleach, 79 oz (by wt.) of CYA, and 1 1/2 (1 lb.)packs of "Shock Xtra Blue."

I know, I know...I regret putting in the stupid Shock Xtra Blue. I had my wife put that in the first day because I was at work and was trying to get a handle on the problem as quick as possible. I have been at this for 2 days and the pump has been running 24/7. I know it can take a week. I don't mind continuing what I am doing as long as it really is an algae problem.

Also, when I put the water in a clear plastic cup it is clear water, no green. So wouldn't that suggest the the algae is coming from the walls and bottom? But like I said, they are not slick at all.

If you didn't last night I would do a OCLT tonight. Here is the link if you need it: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/overnight_fc_test

Can you post a picture of your water?

I'll do the OCLT tonight and take a pic tomorrow.

I did the OCLT, but I have discovered that you need the exact amount of R0870 powder for the night before and the next day test. I have been testing and retesting, and the less R0870 that I scoop the less drops it takes to turn clear. I'm not sure how much a "heaping" scoop would be. Would it be ok to just get a level scoop just for the OCLT test? That way I would have the exact amount each time.

Anyway...Last night's FC was 26
This morning the FC is 25-27 (depending on how much powder is on the scoop..I tested 3 times this morning.)

The other thing is the pool is more green when you look at it from an angle outside the pool than when you look straight down. When the sun is up overhead the pool looks clear. Does all of this point to a metal problem? I'm thinking since it was this way from the beginning and the FC really didn't change overnight that I may have a metal/mineral problem instead. The PB did not install my pressure gauge on my filter, so I was scared about building up pressure. Since some people on TFP have said that you shouldn't let your pressure rise more than about 6 from clean pressure reading, I decided to backwash the filter. The water came out a brown to rusty color. Does that mean anything? I was expecting more of a greenish color to come out.

Thank you in advance for your help!! I'm sorry for all the questions. After finding this site, I told my wife that I could handle this and I want to do what I say!!

Here are the pics...


water2 by j_b_photos, on Flickr


water1 by j_b_photos, on Flickr