To adjust CH the Calculator suggests to replace 19% of the pool water. I know this is the solution. However, where I am Ben Lomond California we have a drought and water is restricted. Is there another way to solve the problem?
The water looks clean and clear.
I have read things from the Pool School. And for the last 9 months I have been testing for:
FC and PH daily.
TA, CH, and CY once a week.
I will reread and study the articles you have suggested.
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Yes, I am starting out. I joined the TFP site...
CSI did show to be-0.6 as you predicted. I will keep PH in the range 7.5 to 7.8 as you suggest.
What do I do about the CH?
And what range should CH be in?
Hello,
Here are my pool water readings:
FC = 8
Ph = 7.2
TA = 40
CH = 480
CY = 50
From the attachment you'll see that TA keeps going down and CH keeps increasing. What should I do?
Thanks,
Swami
Hi,
For the last two days the pool has passed the OCLT, it is zero.
Here are the all the test results:
FC=9 (goes down by 2 every day. Since CY is 50 shall I keep it between 4 and 6)
CC=0
pH=7.6 (no one has used the pool to swim in the last 25 years)
TA=140 (pH & TA relationship is confusing...
Do I need to SLAM. The pool is not green. The water is clear, except there is a lot of white powdery stuff on the bottom. I am vacuuming and backwashing daily.
Hello,
The pool is refilled with 60% fresh water, here are the test results:
FC = 16
CC = 0
pH = 7.3
TA = 150
CH = 320
CYA = 50
What is the first adjustment to do when the pool was refilled?
What would be the second adjustment?
Thanks,
Swami
Greetings,
I have figured out most of the acronyms used here, but what do these mean:
1. FAS-DPD
2. In the TF-100 kit, what does TF stand for?
3. OTO chlorine test.
Thanks,
Swami