Recent content by pinguy

This makes more sense. Calcium precipate looks more flakey while these look like CYA granules.

I would clean it the best you can before setting up. Not so much out of fear of the water chemistry, you’ll be able to balance that properly either way. It’s just way easier to deal with stains and cleaning while the thing is laying flat like that and not filled with water.

My guess would be calcium. Does it dissolve with a few drops of muriatic acid?

This year after 8 seasons, my Aquacal Autopilot SWG cell finally gave out. I had it replaced by the original installer, and they also said a board in the controller needed replaced, which I was originally a bit skeptical of but the entire job was still less than 7 years of chlorine. It worked...

Your pH is on the lower side of the recommended range, so you can add the amount of baking soda that pool math says for a target pH of 7.6.

Your FC level is probably low, because with 0 CYA the sun just burns most FC up. I'd add the CYA and then see if your pump run time or Aquapure needs adjustment,

I would think it would be ok. Are you monitoring your CYA level closely while using tri-chlor? Tri-Chlor (tablets) and Di-Chlor (powder) with both raise your CYA. They can be used, but you need monitor CYA and replace water as necessary, which is why they aren't really recommended. While...

Don't add any more shock powder. They either add CYA or Calcium to your pool, and you don't want either of those to get much higher. Only use liquid bleach/chlorine. See recommended chemicals. Use pool math to calculate how much liquid chlorine you need to get to around 5-7 ppm (chlorine/CYA...

Hey there, A general rule of thumb is to adjust 1 thing at a time, waiting at least 15 minutes for things to circulate before retesting or adding more chemicals. Don't add any calcium. First adjust the pH to around 7.6. Add the calculated amount of Muriatic acid, and wait about 20-30 minutes...

Here is the recommended start up procedure from the National Plaster Council - https://www.nptpool.com/pdf/npc_swimmingpoolstart-upprocedures.pdf Essentially the proccess as far as chemicals go is- Day 1 - Adjust pH to 7.2-7.6 and Alkalinity (TA) to 80 Day 2 - Test and adjust pH /TA. Test...

That is a nice looking pool! Assuming a plaster finish, you will not want to add salt for the first month or so while the plaster is still curing. Until then, you will have to feed your pool liquid chlorine. The first tool you will need is a good testkit. The TF-100 from tftestkits.net or...

The K2006 will have everything you need and is fine if you prefer amazon. The only thing is that it only includes enough reagent for a few CYA tests, but you can also get refills on Amazon. I will say the speedstir is worth every penny if you want to bump your order up to the free shipping range.

Like IceShadow said, I would SLAM again. Cloudiness like you are describing is almost always algea.

If you can find a local pool store that sells chlorine in 5 gallon containers, that is usually the best option. It is usually fresh and a higher concentration than bleach/chlorine from Walmart or similar. The downside is that the 5gal containers are hard to handle.

Hi all, long time since I have posted but I hope everyone is doing well. Hopefully I can spend some more time on the forum helping folks out this season. The new forum design looks great. The air relief assembly on my Pentair (STA-RITE) DE Filter cracked over the winter. Partially my fault for...