Recent content by Nitro

I don't know why your dealer told you to bypass you water softener. IMO, you should fill your tub from the water softener. The only thing is, it will also remove calcium, therefore requiring you to add some.

If you have hot tub party's, and find your FC dropping too fast, it just means you need to use more Chlorine (WHATEVER that amount is). Don't be afraid to use larger amounts of Bleach (1, 2 or 3 cups) if needed. And, don't be afraid to shock (15-20 ppm) your tub until your Chlorine Demand (CD)...

Chlorine Demand is the single most important measurement you can make, to determine the health of your tub water. Any organic "stuff" (dead or alive) in your tub, Chlorine will kill and oxidize. The more "stuff" in your tub, the more Chlorine is needed. The question becomes, is there a...

Anyone know what a Gram of Chlorine is in terms of FC ppm in a 350 gal tub?

If you think about it, if you tell someone to add enough acid to lower pH to 6.8-7.0, considering aeration, that might turn out to be more than this method. The only reason I'm purposing this method, is so you know exactly how much acid to add each time. I see a lot of users try to lower pH, but...

Richard, Aeration must have an extreme effect on raising pH when it's <= 7.0 and TA is high. Every time I've used this method the pH never dropped below 7.0. I measured pH immediately after adding acid, and every 10 mins, to be sure. As a matter of fact, when TA is above 300, I couldn't get a...

Hi All, I'm doing research on SWCG's for spas. I've been looking at three portable ones, Spa Pilot, ColorChlor and Nexa Spa. The first two have an output rating of ~15 grams chlorine per day. The last one has a rating of ~100 grams per day. All at 3000 ppm salinity. The last one claims it can...

Peter, The main (and important) thing to remember about water balance is, adjust your TA in order to keep your pH in line. If you're going to be using the Dichlor/Bleach (BBB) method, adjust your TA initially to around 60 ppm using the Acid/Aeration method. Check out the link further down...

That will work fine if the jets/air aren't running. However, I found it takes more acid than the acid demand test says to get pH down to 7.0, because of the constant aeration. Yes, that's what I said above. "The first thing to remember is, the amount that TA decreases is directly proportional...

The problem with lowering Total Alkalinity (TA) in general is that when you add acid to lower TA, pH also decreases. This limits the amount you can lower TA without pH becoming too low. However, there is something you can do to raise pH that leaves TA alone, Aeration. Aeration is the process of...

Correct! That's about 4.5 oz Dichlor in 570 Gallons. You can shock to 12 ppm FC. In 570 Gallons that's 1.5 oz or 3 TBS Dichlor to make it easy. Maintain FC around 3-6 ppm, with a min of 1 ppm That will raise your Chlorine Demand (CD) to around 50% from 25%. That means your tub will drop FC in...

No big deal. I just thought if it were easy to get a sample, it will make the process go faster for you. It shoudn't take long anyway. I balanced a friend's tub with well water (TA=430ppm) in just a few hours. Also, you can test it when it's cold, it won't matter. Keep us updated.

If you have H*ll (I mean Well) water, it's good you have the option of hauling water in. If you have a water softener, you can use the water coming from that to top off the tub. Keep in mind it will filter out Iron and Calcium. Like I said in #1, check the pH, TA and CH in that city water asap...

MDM, I have a few suggestions, that might help make your adventure easier. 1. Test the TA, pH and CH of your tap water. Then you'll know ahead of time what you'll need to do to balance your water. If your TA is high (>100 ppm) then you're going to need to get that down first. I recommend...

Re: New Spa on the way. Sounds like a chem nightmare. I posted in the wrong thread. :oops: