Recent content by jvanheijzen

Ok, that's what I was suspecting. I cleaned the cell last weekend. My cousin got a T-15 + board for around $625. Does that sound about right? Where would you get one from? More out of curiosity than anything else, how do you know that the board has been replaced and is ok? Thanks for your...

Hi James. Thanks for the help so far. Sorry about the delay. Based on this manual, I believe that the information below is correct: Box Serial Number: *5A0501-1013277* Cell Serial Number: A-15-0402-15GXY-46 (note, the cell is a SimpleCell, not Aquarite, I'm not sure if that matters) Pool...

We moved in to the house 3 years ago, it was here when I got here. That's all I know about the age. How do I pull diagnostic readings off of it?

I have an Aquarite T3 SWG. It is reading 2000 salt level and saying that it is low salt and therefore not generating chlorine. I bought some new test strips and brought my water to the pool place. Both agree that my salt is actually on the high side. I followed the procedure at...

I just purchased an Intermatic 104 timer and went to go install it. From the wiring diagram, it appears that I'm supposed to put one wire to lead #1 and one to #3. The problem is, that I've got two wires coming in to the box. One is 110, and one is 220. It seems like I need two 110 wires...

I found this. https://www.hayward-pool.com/pdf/manuals/AquaRite&AquaRiteXL.pdf I'm confused in page 11 where it talks about standalone vs. using a Goldline control. Which configuration should U set it up for?

I just purchased a T104 timer that I'd like to have my pump run on. When I put my meter across the terminals, I see that the pump is 220 and the SWG is 110. Do I need to buy two separate timers?

The previous owners of my home plugged the SWG and pump directly into my breaker box. To turn it on you actually have to flip a breaker. Now I would like to add a timer to the mix so that I can have it run for only certain hours of the day. Is it ok to simply put a timer box in there and add...

I had no idea there would be that much evaporation this time of year. I see that you are in DFW area. I'm in Midlothian. Are you getting that much evaporation?

We had a freeze last month where I live. I had kept the pool equipment running to minimize the amount of standing water that I had and hopefully minimize any damage that might occur. Since then, my pool has started leaking at the rate of about 1/4" of water per day. It leaks by about the same...

That's exactly my concern. Shouldn't FC stay up for a couple of days with a SWG running 24/7 AND chlorine tabs? I pass a SLAM by the criteria set out on TFP. Everything is good for a few days. Then the next thing I know my FC drops to 0, my water is cloudy and I'm doing another SLAM. By now...

Well, for starters I've done one slam on my pool after another for about 2 months. Something is obviously not working right on my system. My swg is old, could be that. However I mentioned my woes to someone at work who also owns a pool. He told me that fiberglass can actually deteriorate at some...

Ok, so I just passed the TFP SLAM procedure and test this Tuesday (as in, two days ago). Now I get home from work today and my FC is 0 and my pool is milky. So far I've done a backwash and dumped some bleach in there. Having done that an hour ago, here are my current readings: CL = 5 ppm CA...

I have a TF-100 on order, should be here by Monday. Currently using off-the-shelf test strips and Leslie's Pool test results. I'll post full test results a little later. I tend to believe Leslie's more than my own at the moment. Test strips showed that CYA was 50 one day, then jumped to 90...