Thanks to everyone on this site as well as many others who have posted great ideas and techniques on building Ques. I have several sketches that go back four years now of my soon to be BBQ.

Last year I purchased a 5 burner Jenn Air built-in at Lowes for $400 on clearance. It's been collecting dust in my garage for far too long. I also bought a FireMagic Power burner for crab & oyster boils.

I got started labor day weekend have been making great progress. Here are some pics ...

Does anyone know if I can build a manifold from my LP tank so that it supplies the BBQ & the power burner from one tank? Would I lose any burner power if I do? I also want to install a sink. Do I need to install a vent on the drain for it to work properly? Any advice here would be appreciated.

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your coming right along.. i have to ask where do you get the stainless steel framing? and is it all bolt together system... or are you welding it... i am looking at building on myself. cant wait to see your finished Bar B Q Island...good luck

The framing is galvanized, available in any home improvement place. It replaces wood studs... Makes construction go a LOT faster (and cleaner!) if'n ya have the right tools. Screws together with sheet metal screws.


Yes, you can get a manifold, actually a regulator, to run both of those units, and I do not believe any power would be loss. There's a lot of pressure in those cans. I have a 3 burner grill with a side burner. While not quite as big as yours, there's no loss of 'power'.

You'll want something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Lp-Gas-Regulator- ... B0002YT17M

I just noticed you asked if you could 'build' one. You probably could.... But I wouldn't do it in a million years! Bad MaGumbo can happen if things aren't right. Stick with the dual output regulator.

On the sink side, are you attaching the drain to an existing drain? If so, you wouldn't need a vent, just don't forget your s-trap or things will get stinky! If you're draining to a tank of some sorts, you will need a vent on the tank to displace the air.

Caveat Emptor: Check your local codes!

Looks good so far.

Do you have a drain line ran to the island already?

Some people who don't have a handy drain line just drain into a rock filled hole. The hole only needs to be a couple feet deep and then filled with drain rock (~3/4"). The drain rock can be covered with mesh and then soil to make it look like the surrounding area. This type of drain requires that one only puts water down the drain and no food waste.

NO MUGUMBO!!

Thanks for the advice - I will look into the regulator with two outputs.

For the plumbing, I tapped into the clean out sewer pipe around the outside of the house. It's 4" ABS that will be used as the drain directly to the sewer. Will the house vents be enough to allow the sink to drain properly or do I need to add a vent?

I will post updated pics tomorrow ... look forward to hearing from you on the drain issue.

You shouldn't need any vents, but I hope you're leaving a way to get into your cleanout.

I added a studor valve to my drain line just to be safe, seemed like cheap insurance at the time, and has worked flawlessly..

Design looks great, and your build process is coming along nicely, keep up the good work!

Looks good so far. Keep the photos coming.

Thanks Kias & Cobra for the advice ... I found a combo kit at Lowes for $20 that includes a vent.

Here's the latest - finally done with framing ... hopefully! I'm sure I'll find more to add as I add hardibacker. I installed L brackets in each stud where the bar hangs over for added support.

Words of advice - think about the pre-punched holes in studs before you cut. I did not consider this when I was framing and none of the holes line up. Leaning towards flex pipe on my plumbing because of it.

and a few more ...

nice, looking great,,, but very nice dog!!! we have a boxer to.. ours looks about like yours... ours is 2 years of age.. they are great dogs....

Make sure you provide upper and lower vents in each compartment and that you tank is not in one that has a burner. Each vent should be 20 sq in.

Yes, Boxers are great - a bit high strung, but fantastic dogs overall. His name is Hobie - aka my HOBITCH.

Dr Dave - thanks for the feedback ... I do have several vents I plan to install at top and bottoms of every side. The island construction book for the BBQ has directions to install the tank below the actual built in island cabinet of the BBQ. They specifically say to mount it just under the right side to plumb the regulator lines. This is contrary to your advice across many of the forums.

My thoughts are ... it's isolated from the BBQ itself through the hardibacker and I will overkill that compartment with vents for air flow. The only alternative would be to put the tank in the bar side and run extra long lines to each burner. I guess both have their PROS and CONS.

What are your thoughts?

I just spent 20 minutes on a response only to mess up and lose it. My bad...

Please go to my web site and look at the ventillation page.

I also have a PPT presentation of a guy who spent a month in a burn ward because of a propane gas explosion in his Island. He sent it to me because he knows my passion for saftey. It is VERY GRAPHIC and revealing. I can send it to you if you wish.

I beg you to consider the compartments need to be individual with no tanks in any that have burners. Every compartment must have an upper and lower vent of 20 sq in.

Any supplier that tells you it is ok to house a bottle in the same compartment (on an Island) is asking for a multimillion dollar law suit. Portable BBQ units get away with it because they are open architecture with lots of cross ventillation and no place for the gas to get trapped.

This man is very lucky that his wife and 2 children are not in beds next to him.

He found me on the now defunct BBQG Forum where I advised for 9 years.

bwhite what an great looking kitchen this will be! I'm really looking forward to follow it.

Dr.Dave Thanks alot for the warning on how to place the gas tank properly. I was planning to place mine under the burner but will change that right away and also provide for extra ventilation in that department

//Mats

Almost three months has past since I began working on my outdoor kitchen. All hardibacker, plumbing and electrical is installed and ready to go. Planning to take the rest of Thanksgiving week off to make the final touches.

I need some advice for stone and stucco application ... there are varying opinions on the web and interested in seeing what experts here would recommend. Can you please take a few minutes and provide best techiniques and methods for the below?

1. Applying Stucco finish over hardibacker

2. Installing Coronado Stone Veneer

Interested in getting your input to understand more about what type of surface preparation should be done before applying stucco and installing coronado stone veneer. Also, what are the best materials to use for each job? It would be great if you can provide specific products or brands that you have had success with.

Thanks for the help ... I will post some updated pics soon.

I don't have specific brand names, concrete glue and stucco are mostly the same. I applied a thick single coat of concrete glue on the Hardie Backer and applied the stucco when it became tacky. I used a single coat of tinted stucco and that's it.
Very simple and easy to do. My island is now 11 years old and still looks great.

My web site has some information on it in the FAQ section.

Thanks Dr Dave for the advice on stucco. Picked up cement adhesive and sack of stucco today. Looking forward to getting suggestions also on applying veneer stone. Any help would be appreciated.

Here are a few of latest pics ...