I started my conversion from Baqujunk on August 12, before finding this website. My pool store recommended the Zeneca method. I have a 12000 gallon oval AG Hayward 1.5, sand filter.

They had me adjust the ph to 6.8 to 7 then shock with Sun-brite non chlorine shock 42% potassium peroxymonosulfate....wow tho colors were wild. then run the filter for 48 hours and then I had to adjust the ph to 7.2 - 7.8 which it was already.

Changed out my sand.

Shock again with Cal-hyp, 1 lb for every 8000 gallons and run the pump, the shock foam a lot then settled down quickly. I don't have the test kit yet but is on order.....

This morning the pool water looks like watered down coffee.

Using the test strips my FC is Zero but I believe thats from the chlorine bleaching it out
and my shirt has the white spots to prove it.

Alk - 130
Cya - 0
PH -8
Th - 350
all from the test strips i have.

Any Suggestions

Welcome to TFP.

Dilute your pool water sample with distilled water and use the test strips on the sample. If you add one tablespoon of pool water to 3 tablespoons of distilled water and test the result, the strip will read 1/4 of the actual chlorine. Dilute to whatever level it takes to get a reading. It's not as accurate as directly testing the water, but it's good enough for this. That way you can stay on top of it until your kit arrives.

Thanks for the quick response. Do you think I'm on the right track????

I would suggest you switch to bleach for the rest of your process. (assuming your test strips are accurately reflecting the TH) You may well be adding more calcium to the pool than you want (about 400ppm max) and bleach is just as cheap and adds nothing to your pool you don't want.

You are off to a good start, but there is still more to go. The potassium peroxymonosulfate will have dealt with much of the baquacil, but there will still be a little left. The best thing to do at this point is to continue along with the Baquacil Conversion instructions as if you were just starting. Because of the potassium peroxymonosulfate you are already a good part of the way there, but you need to finish it off with chlorine.

The final stages of a baquacil conversion are much much simpler if you have a FAS-DPD chlorine test. The FAS-DPD test can measure FC and CC levels by 0.5 up to levels over 50. I recommend getting a kit from TF Test Kits, see the link in my signature. The Taylor K-2006 is also good.

Definitely have the test kit coming.

I have 4 gallons of 10% sodium hypo here, i will us that up and then go to Bleach, way cheaper.

Hate to say it, but you changed your sand too soon...

You will need to change it again when you are done with the conversion.

Not a big deal to change the sand out, just added expense, thanks for the insight.....

I diluted my sample and it still read at zero, is it possible there just isn't any FC because of the conversion

Yes, it is completely possible that all of the chlorine is gone already. During a baquacil conversion the FC level tends to fall very quickly, especially during the day (since sunlight consumes chlorine). The best measure of how much progress you are making is to do an overnight FC loss test, though that requires a FAS-DPD chlorine test.

I added almost 300oz of 10% bleach as according to the pool calculator but I'm still getting a zero rating, should I add more until I get a reading.

What test kit are you using to measure the FC level? And how long after you add the chlorine are you measuring? A DPD chlorine test, drops turn the sample pink which is then compared to a color chart, can bleach out and read zero when the FC level is very high. Also, all of the chlorine will go away after several hours in the sun, even if there is nothing for it to oxidize.

I'm waiting for my test kit to come in. I am using the 6 way strips. I can put the strip directly in the bleach and I get a
FC reading, when i put them in the pool I get a zero reading......? Can't wait for my kit to get here.

Then keep adding bleach, as often as once an hour, aiming for a FC level of 15.

going very well!!!!!

the pool is blue and the kids are begging to go in. ph is a little high as well as the alk, should I try and bring them down or keep doing what I'm doing

Fc = 5
Tc = 10
ALK = 240
CYA = 0
PH = 8
TH = 250

No swimming till 24 hours after you add CYA, which isn't for a little while yet. Your CC level is still very high, and FC is extremely high (given that CYA is zero), so swimming isn't a good idea.

Your TA is high, which is probably what is pushing up the PH. For now you should bring the PH down to 7.2 any time the he PH is above 7.5 and the FC level is 5 or lower. You will get false high PH readings when FC is higher than 5 (during the conversion). Once the conversion is complete you can think about adjusting everything more carefully.

Fc = 10
Tc = 10
ALK = 200
CYA = 0
PH = 7.8
TH = 250

The pool looks awesome !!!!

Merged to maintain history. Butterfly

Good morning all, I just want to say thank you for all your advice and being so supportive.
This morning when I checked my levels they were as follows:
Fc = 7
Tc = 9
ALK = 180
CYA = 0
PH = 7.8
TH = 300

Didn't really lose a lot overnight, but I have some concerns for today.

Noticing some reddish/copper colored residue on the skimmer and basket and clear plastic dome on my pump??

We are being forcasted for rain for the next couple days should I take any extra precautions???

Again I really appreciate all your efforts!!

Good morning. Sounds like things are going well. I would disregard the stains for now. Brush them when you can but continued use of chlorine will clear them up.

Mods,
Can we move this thread over to the other one(s) he started?

Thank you for the quick reply, sorry about starting the new thread. Happy fingers.

Should I be concerned about the storms coming in or just stay diligent with the chlorine.

Thanks again!!