Intellichlor IC40. flashing both green and red light
Is this normal?
both green and red light flashing.
Pwr Cell lights are on solid green.
Sanitizer output on 60%.

14000gal IG pool - Added 1 bag of salt it is still flashing.

Test shows
I am getting really low Chlor level.
I also getting high PH. need to add m Acid. just ran out.

I believe you need to clean your cell.

Ok, need more datail. Which light is flashing red, which is flashing green? If the power light is green, thats good.
So, which light is flashing red and green?

Water temp too plz. Current salt level is what? Chems....

The red and green lights flash for approx. 4 to 8 min after the unit gets power (pump starts). Let it run for ten min. and see if it stops.

after 4 min or so the red (low salt) light stay solid. \
Power light - on
Cell light - off
flow light - on
Sanitizer output - 60%

Easy Touch diagnostics reads 2350ppm (Very low Salt)
Temp is 54 degrees

I added 2 bag of salt this week. The rain must have really screwed up the salt level.

Your salt levels are too low. The flashing red means check salt, when it goes to solid red it means low salt and the IC-40 willl not generate chlorine. I assume you have the newer version that doesnt have the yellow light for check salt.
Also, 54 degrees is on the edge of a water temperature where the IC-40 will not make chlorine even if the salt level was correct. At that temp, the salinity meter can be off as well. The water really needs to be up to around 60 degrees for it to operate consistently.

You should always have the water tested for salt other than trust what your systems report says, when it shows low salt.
IC ver. 2 now makes the sensor replacable.
Verify salt level, and have the sensor replaced, if needed.

Edit: My Pentair rep may have given me the wrong info regarding the ability to change the sensor on the ver. 2.0 cells. I'm still waiting to hear an answer from him one way or the other.

I can agree with you to a point here. However, what the system says the salt level is, thats how the generator will respond. Doesnt matter if the salt level is good by strip or meter, if the Pentair says its low, it wont make chlorine. But, at least a strip or meter test would tell you whether or not the sensor is bad and needs to be replaced. If I remember correct, the Pentair SWCG sensors are +/- 500 ppm.

Right. Were trying to find out if the sensor needs to be replaced, yes?

What i'm getting at here is, If your pool starts out with enough salt, then suddenly your ic40 says that you are not only low, but very low on salt, obviously something is up and you should have it tested independent of your system Before you put any salt in, because more than likely you don't need salt.

Now in fkongs case, he mentioned that it rained. So we need to know if the sensor is bad, or he got a lot of rain, or maybe a little of both. And thats what bringing a sample for test will tell us. Salt readings agree, add salt (one bag at a time between checks) and start again. Readings are different, he needs a sensor.

Yea, we're on the same page

got water tested
FAC 0
ph 8.0
TA 110
CYA 40
Salt 4700

So the intellichlor totally misread the salt level at 54 degrees

I added about 30 oz of MA to get the PH down
The intellichlor " cell " light still didnt light up.

Got the Cell light on after I started heating up the water with my spa setting
So now at 90 degree spa water it blinks green light for - too much salt.
Run the pump at 54 degree water it will eventually read low salt again.

Basically I have to just start the IC40 with heated water.
I guess the problem will go away after there is enough temperature for the Intellichlor to work correctly.

I have it set to super chlorination for now. so I can get some chlorine back into the pool.

Yep, the water is still too cold. The intellichlor doesnt really work consistently until the water temp hits ~ 60 degrees.

Now that you have too much salt in the pool, it may shut off again. Drain and dilute, soon as you get a chance. I would also check the salt level (again) between your unit and the pool store once the water warms up. You may still need a replacement sensor.

Is that unit one that can operate at higher salt levels?
If you do plan to dilute, do so first, but then the best way to rapidly rise the FC level is thru the manual addition of bleach or liquid chlorine. We don't advise you to use the "super chlorinate" feature.

Ok. I can use an extra inch of water. I will add some today.

At these temps (54 degrees) theres no rush to get the chlorine in the pool. So running at 100% for about two days "to get some Cl in the pool" won't hurt the cell.

But the cell won't run in your (cold) water right now so it's a mute point. Put a gal of bleach in...




Putting water in the pool won't help. You must take water out, then fill back up to dilute. Even if you drained an inch, then filled it back up, it probably wouldn't be enough. You will need to drain more than that.

According to the Pool Calculator you need to drain 26% (3650 Gallons) of your pool water to lower you salt to around 3500. You're also going to lower your other chems at the same time so be aware of that.

I would drain a little more than what it says.
It will be cheaper and easier to buy some salt and add if you fill back up, and find you are low.
But if you don't get enough water (salt) out, you will have to drain some more.