Just found this forum a few days ago and can't seem to get any work done any more!

I have a 30K in-ground plaster pool. I live in Austin, Texas where we have seen 104+ for the last 5 days straight. I am not able to keep enough chlorine in the pool. It's a constant battle. I am looking for an automated system.

Here are my specs:

30,000 gallon
Titan 48 sq ft DE filter
Hayward 1.5 HP single speed pump
Direct sun on over 70% of the pool all day
current water temp is 89
PH 7.4
I have a Pentair in-line tablet chlorinator, the valve is open to max setting of 5 and the feed tube is "top-feed". It uses about 4-5 tablets per week. I have also been putting 1-2 3" tablets in both skimmers.
In spite of that, Chlorine is .7 unless I am constantly shocking or adding liquid 6% clorox.

The local pool store tells me that the heat is just winning the battle.

I have considered the Liquidator but am starting to think that what I really want is a SWG.

There are a lot to choose from. What brand is preferred these days?

I will definitely be inclined to go overkill and get the highest capacity since I can't seem to keep up with my pool.

All input is greatly appreciated and please let me know if you need more details about my situation.

-Respectfully,
Steve
Austin, TX

An swg is a good choice. Another option would be an injection system. I don't recommend Liquidators for pools above 25,000 gallons.

Since you asked about an swcg, any of the major mgf's units would be fine. Go about 1½ times the size of your pool when sizing one.

The Intellichlor is highly thought of, and a new comer is Compupool. We don't have a lot of history with those units but all the reviews so far have been good.

And while you didn't ask. Your problem with keeping FC in the pool is most likely NOT from the heat. It's most likely from something growing in here and you're adding just enough chlorine to keep it at bay but not enough to kill it completely. Most likely due to your CYA being high from overuse of tablets.

Welcome Steve

Any chance you can post a full set of test results? Although a SWG may make life easier, I'm thinking you want to rule out organics or other chemistry issues as a possible cause.

I would rate getting a good test kit ( pool-school/pool_test_kit_comparison ) as more important than worrying about chlorine automation. Once you confirm the chemistry is in check and you can pass the overnight FC loss test, then you can focus on automating chlorine delivery

Here is the info that you can confirm with a good test kit and visual inspection:

What does your water look like? Cloudy? Green? Crystal? Murky?
FC = x
CC = x
pH = x
TA = x
CH= x
CYA = x

Water is clear. I have to brush some small patches of algae on a daily basis. I just shocked my pool to 10 ppm with clorox about 10 days ago.

I just drained 2/3rds of my pool about 2 months ago to lower the CYA.

Here is the most recent test done by Warehouse Pool back on 7/9/2011: ( I will take sample in today for a new one )

FC = 1.0
CC = 1.0
pH = 7.4
TA = 75
CH= 175
CYA = 60

Here are my test results this morning: (I added one bottle "182oz" of 6% clorox about 2 hours ago

FC = 2.0
CC = 2.0
PH = 7.3
TA = 80

Temp: 89 degrees

If you're having to brush off algae every day then there's where your chlorine is going.

You really need to get yourself a good test kit so you can manage your pool correctly. Link in sig.

First thing you need to do is shock your pool correctly. Shocking is a process that you have to maintain until you've killed everything in the pool. It's not a product you toss in the pool a time or two.

With a CYA of 60 your FC should never be allowed to go below 5. Use more bleach to get it there.

Okay. I just donated to become a TFP Lifetime supporter. I will order the TF100 kit as soon as I receive a link to the discount. I will start shocking the **** out of the pool until the organics submit! I understand that shocking is 10 ppm, correct?

For a CYA of 60 ppm your shock level will be 24 ppm. You need to test and add to bring it back there every hour in the begining. You should also read the Pool School article on "How to shock your pool".

Yeah, I just read that article. 24 ppm? Yikes, that requires 11 gallons of Bleach! How much do you think I will have to add to keep it at that level for the required amount of time? I will have to take the truck to Costco to restock before I even start

Would I be cheaper or better to get the higher concentration stuff from a pool supply? Or where do you recommend I get the good stuff?

Some places sell 10% bleach 2.5 gal for about $4 bucks. (Leslies, Pinch a Penny and Ace hardware) in my area. That might be cheaper depends on what you get your bleach for.

Steve follow the good advice on this forum and you will soon have a trouble free pool.

I am also a Steve with a 30,000 gallon pool in Texas. We installed a SWG last summer and have kissed our cloudy water and water balance problems goodbye. If you read the pool school, learn the BBB method, learn to conduct the overnight chlorine test, use the pool calculator, and learn to test with the TF-100 test kit you will have the pool you always wanted.

With a CYA level of 60 your shock level is 24. See: pool-school/chlorine_cya_chart_shock That means dumping in sufficient bleach to raise AND keep the FC at 24 until you pass the overnight Cl test. Read: pool-school/shocking_your_pool If a pool store told you that your CYA is 60 then the proper value is probably anything but 60. You need to conduct your own CYA test.

Many pool owners do no raise their FC level high enough and allow algae to continue to grow in their pool After you have killed the algae you DO NOT have to shock the pool on a routine basis. The standard instruction given by pool stores is dead wrong.

“The local pool store tells me that the heat is just winning the battle.” Hopefully this is the last time you listen to their wrong advice. My pool is in full sun most of the day and you know it has been 98+ everyday for weeks. We just return from vacation to a crystal clear pool that had proper water chemistry. Once you learn how to properly test your water and maintain the water in balance you can go on vacation and not return to a pool with algae.

“current water temp is 89” My SWG says our water temperature is 90.

“Would I be cheaper or better to get the higher concentration stuff from a pool supply?” Pool stores in my area do not carry liquid Cl. Lowe's carries 12% liquid Cl. I find bleach to be cheaper.

“Or where do you recommend I get the good stuff?” We purchase our bleach at Walmart or SAMS Club. Sometimes HEB or other grocery stores sell bleach at a discount. Make sure that the bleach is 6%.

First get your water in balance and kill the algae. Then we can discuss a SWG.

It's hard to say how much chlorine you're going to need but if they don't look at you funny when you check out, you didn't get enough! Seriously, it takes a lot when you have to shock. Sometimes the Pool Store stuff is cheaper and it's definitely less to tote.

Now that you're a contributor, PM Jason for a discount code for the TF-100 test kit.

Jason, sent me the discount info and I just placed my order for test kit. I also got the super cool magnetic stirrer! Yeah, I'm excited about that.

I will get a test done at Warehouse Pool and go off of those test to get started unless you think I should wait the week it will take to get the test kit...

When you have algae the rule is to hit it hard with bleach ASAP.

Do not wait a week. Algae will continue to multiple. The sooner you kill the algae the less total bleach you have to use.

Watch how the pool store tests for CYA. If they over estimate the CYA your shock process will work but maintaining a FC level will be more difficult. If the pool store underestimates the CYA level then 24 ppm of FC may not be high enough to kill the algae.

Here is my latest test from Warehouse Pool:

FC: 6.0
CC: 0.0
PH: 7.4
CH: 180
TA: 70
CYA: 80 (I asked him about this and he said because my chlorine level was so high, he might call it a 70 instead)

Phosphate level: 500 !! argh

I asked him about the 6.0 ppm chlorine when I only got 2.00 this morning about 2 hours after I added 182 oz of 6% bleach. His answer was that the pool may have not turned over earlier and that's why it is higher now. I just came home and tested again at the house and I get the same as this morning. I hope I can trust their CYA test.

Don't worry about phosphate levels. Phosphate is tested so that they can sell you phosphate reducer. If you eliminate all phosphate you can still have algae. I do not know why a FC level of 6 would affect the CYA test.

I began the shock process and it's tough with a crappy test kit that is only designed to test to 5ppm FC! I did order TF100 on Thursday but I have no idea when it will arrive.

I *think* my FC is around 25 and shows no sign of falling for two days now. I sure wish I could swim

Should I work to lower my CYA now that I've subscribed to BBB?

I'd wait till you get the TF-100 and see what the CYA is according to it before I adjusted it. You may find that it's either higher or lower than you think.

If my CYA is 70 or 80 then what is my FC threshold for "unsafe to swim"?

At 70 CYA normal CL levels are 4-8ppm. Most say it is OK to swim at shock levels which would be 16ppm for a 70 cya level. I personally would not go in over 12ppm but that is just me.

Go to poolcalculater.com and plug in your pool numbers, this is a great tool.

JCJR, thanks but I read the CYA chart differently and I thought it states that shock levels for 70-80 CYA is 28-31. Am I misreading this at pool-school/chlorine_cya_chart_shock?