Hi. I'm new on this forum and seems like I finally find the right place to ask questions about my salt generator system. I have the Pool Pilot Digtal 220, which bought from a neighbor that was moving out of the country with around 1 1/2 years of use. The unit came with the SC36 cell and my original installation was using that cell. My pool is around 18k of water (3 to 6 feet deep) and was chlorine based until I completely emptied it, cleaned it and converted it into a salt based system. After a couple of weeks of operation started to see some algae growth, upon which was told the chlorine level was very low (water analysis). I increased the number of hours in the pump operation from 4 to 6 hours and decided to order a new/bigger cell (SC48), which ordered from Inyo pools. Even before I installed the new cell I started to see a warning in the panel reading "check / clean cell", time at which I pull the cell assembly out for inspection, cleaned it and re-installed it without any change in the alarm. Once I received the new cell (SC48) I installed it, but I still have the "check/clean cell" alarm, so obviously something is wrong. The readings of the system test sequence are as follows:

Pool Pilot Digital V4.2
2,900 ppm
Cell 20V 3.5 Amp (Power level set at 3)

I did reset the cell to zero when replaced the cell from SC36 to SC48 and even increased the pool size on the system from 18k to 23k to see if this would help. Testings of chlorine level are on the low side, the salt level seems to be ok. I still see some green algae growth in the corners, so something is bad here. Have someone experienced a similar issue? Your help will be appreciated.

fskywalker,

What voltage do you have the unit installed at? Sounds like it's internally wired for 220 volts, but you're providing 110 volts to it. Can you check and verify?

The unit is receiving 120 volts ac, 60 hz. I will re-check with the manual but am almost certain that it is wired correctly. What does makes you feel there is a problem in wiring voltage, the cell voltage output?

Regards,

Francisco

Your amps and volts.

Normal operating voltage should be around 24 - 28 volts at either 5.0, 6.5, or 8.0 amps, depending on the Cell Power setting, 1, 2, 3 respectively.
At 2900ppm salt, I would expect to see 26 - 28 volts, but amps should be around 8.0 (cell power 3).
At 20 volts and 3.5, they are about half of what it should be...which is usually 110 volts supply voltage to a unit wired internally for 220 volts.

Sean: Thanks for the heads-up, will check that tonight and reply to you, if that is the problem the correction would be pretty easy since the power panel is right next to the equipment. Under this scenario (wired incorrectly for 110 volts) the system would still produce chlorine?

Thanks,

Francisco

Yes, it is still producing some chlorine. However, make sure the wiring on the circuit board IS configured for 220 volts before you put 220 volts to it!

Hi again Sean, you were right, it was wired for 220 volts, but connected to a 110v source. I fixed it and now the alarm went away, the voltage of the cell now reads 29.2 volts. I setup a superboost for 72 hours for the pool, so expect that the algae problem gets solved!! Since my pool is around 18k gallons and I have now an oversized cell (SC48) capable of handling upt to a 42k pool, do you recommend lowering the cell power setting from 3 to 2 or 1?

Thanks,:-D
Francisco

I turn the SWCG off and clean up algae with bleach. When the chlorine level holds over night I turn the Autopilot on and slowly adjust it to maintain to correct CL level. I run mine on power level 2, different water balances, sun, bather load will determine the settings.

I agree with Dave.
You can run it on Cell Power 2. I would verify your salt level, as the normal operating voltage should be around 24 - 27 volts.
It'll run around 28 - 29 volts if the water temp is colder than 65, and/or salt level falls below 2500 ppm, and/or the cell is scaled.

Helpful hint, increase your salt level to around 3500 - 4000 ppm as the water temp gets colder. This should prevent nuisance Check System lights.

Hi to all again. I am again having problems with my DIG-220 chlorinator. I had the SC-48 cell installed, level 3 power, and then voltage and amps reading on the test sequence reads 27V and 3.7 amps. The unit had started to give me a warning saying that should check or clean the cell, which I did, but still get the same alarm. The unit had stopped producing chlorine (checked with some drops of chlorine detector on the water pump outlet in the pool).

I remove the SC-48 and re-installed the old SC-36 (which I replaced thinking the cell was bad around 2 years ago, turned out had the unit wired at 110v rather than 220v) and the alarm went away (29 volts, 5.9 amps in level 3; 28 volts and 6.4 amps in level 2), but still don't have chlorine being detected in the water outlet. I read some units get a defective power supply after a while, could that be the problem, and if so how can I trouble shot that? The unit is like 4 years old by now (bought it used 2 years ago, had it for around 2 years)

How expensive is that repair?

Thanks,

Francisco