The house I recently purchased came with an old self-contained spa outside. I've spent the past hour looking the various names and numbers I can find on the unit trying to identify it, get the manual, and someone locally who can service it. Haven't had any luck.

Closest I get are various sites with Ramco / CRL replacement controls. Basically trying to get an idea on its age and specs.

Filled up the tub above the filter (whole tub really needs to get cleaned though). Flipped the breaker on. The EP2 power light doesn't turn on. Pressed the GFCI reset and a click comes from the EP2 unit. Every ~10 seconds, the spa pump makes a noise like its trying to turn on or something and then off again. None of the controls on the top do anything except make a click (which I assume is some internal relay) in the EP2.

Ideas?

Bump

Does the motor turn or hum?

It makes a hum/click noise ever ~10 seconds then off again. Sounding to me like its frozen or something. Although, I could've sworn that when I purchased the house in the fall, when I flipped on the spa breaker the motor worked.

Try to turn the shaft. You can get to it between the motor and wet end. A thin pair of pliers may give you a better grip.

Scott

I was thinking about taking the whole spa motor assembly out and playing with it... trying to make it spin, take it apart, etc. Will have to try this all tonight in the PM when home from work.

Basically close the slotted values before/after the motor, unscrew the couplings, and that's it right? For the reinstall, after the couplings are tight (hand or wrench?), open the valves and then loosen the couplings again some to get the air out will water comes?

Had time today to remove the pump. It's frozen . Can't move the impeller blade by hand or the motor coils with a screwdriver.

Looks like a new pump is going to set me back ~$200-250 'eh. Any reason why I shouldn't upgrade from a 1.5 HP to 2 or 2.5 HP pump now?

Plumbing size, voltage, and load on the spa pack are three reasons that would be a bad idea.

Scott

If you have any reasonable mechanical ability, you could just try to replace the bearings. I don't know what they would cost up in WA, but it may keep you a from buying a new pump for a while. Besides, it's not like it's working ok now, can't get any worse. Just a thought.

I like to think I do . Have done engine swaps and build my own computers...

Guess since the motor is already seized, no harm trying to take it apart and see what I find. Whats the name of stores that one typically gets bearings from?

Most auto parts carry them. Your best price is going to be a local industrial bearing supply house like Motion Industries, etc. Next would probably an electric motor shop.

I buy bearings all the time and Motion is an excellent source.

You may also try www.mcmaster.com. While their prices are not the best, they have an awesome website and deliver the next day. Their selection is not as good as Motion.

Online stores will most likely have better prices and selection, but (for me) there is a local motor/electrical shop that has great customer service, so whenever possible, I go to them. They have no problems giving advice, testing components, or recommending someone else that might stock something I need. There aren't a lot of places like that around anymore.

Ok, back on track. Yeah, give it a shot. Good luck!

EDIT: I've also been looking for info regarding the tub. No dice...sorry. Don't feel bad, I have no idea who made mine either, don't think I'll ever know.

Finally, I got the replacement Aquaflow pump installed this weekend. Even had the local spa dealer pricematch an online retailer and saved myself $230. Now when I flip on the breaker, the jets turn on. yay.

Although, now when I turn the heat dial on, there is a really loud buzzing coming from the EP2 module. No, it's not the pump. When I turn the heat knob to the off position, the heater light turns off along with the buzzing. Also notice that the top-side buttons for the jets and light don't do anything either -- yes the cable is plugged into the EP2 unit.

1) I assume this means the heater element is dead/dying?
2) As the whole internals of the system is old, should I just get a new digital control system now? Something like this really practical?

The buzz is likely to be the relay that sends power to the heater element.
Spa packs aren't cheap but given that the board sounds like it's toast, it's a darned if you do/don't situation.

If the spa has no leaks, you'll wind up with a very reliable spa. Changing a spa pack is not always an easy task as some plumbing changes are inevitable and in the close confines, may be difficult.

We'll be here for you though!

Scott

Is the buzzing coming from the spa pack itself?

If so, the buzzing is almost definitely the contactor for the heater. If the heater is working, one of two things will happen. One, it will fail and the heater will no longer work. Could be tomorrow, could be two years from now. Two, as you use it, the buzzing will get quieter over time. When I first hooked mine up, all 4 of the contactors buzzed like crazy. Heater, pump #1 low and high, and pump #2. Within a couple of days, all except pump #2 stopped. One has since failed, but the other that continues buzzing is getting slightly quieter all the time. The buzzing occurs because the contactor is sticking slightly, usually from the spa pack not being used for a while.

If the spa pack contains a circuit board which has all the components placed on it, most likely when something in it fails you're better off replacing the whole pack. If it's like mine, there is no board, everything is controlled via the various switches, relays, and contactors. You just have to decide whether you want to replace components or the whole pack. If I wanted to replace my spa pack with a brand new one of the same model, it would be ~$450. I can replace every single component in mine for around $250. Of course, mine is an older model and I'm pretty sure most spa packs aren't made like this anymore.

Sorry for writing a whole essay on the subject of spa packs, just wanted to give as much info as possible. Whatever you end up doing, I really hope you get to enjoy that tub soon!

Feel free to post anymore questions you have, we'll all try to help in any way we can!

Yes, the buzzing is coming from the spa pack (aka EP2 unit from the pictures above). No idea if the heater is working as I haven't left the spa running for long enough. Besides leaving the spa running for 24/7, any way to quickly know if the heater element(s) are properly working? I don't own an amprobe. The buzzing sound doesn't seem normal from all the spas I've been in, so I turned the breaker off to the spa. It really will get better over time 'eh?

I haven't cracked open the spa pack to look at the internals yet. But being that the topside controls don't do anything... wondering if the internals are somewhat dead.

No guarantees. Mine did, but maybe I just got lucky. Based on how you were describing it, sounds like the heater is working. When I first started using mine, the buzzing was so loud you couldn't talk over it if you were standing next to the tub. Now, you can't even hear it over the sound of the water.

I'd open up the pack and see how it's made. If everything is placed on a board, I'd just replace the pack. If not, and you feel like fooling around with it and can get parts, just replace the contactor that's buzzing. It will be the one with the wires going to the heater element, touch it with your finger or the plastic handle of a screwdriver (please use the handle in case it slips, don't want you to get hurt!) and you'll feel it. If you don't want to fool around with replacing components, just replace the pack.

Even after saying all that, since you're probably wanting to replace the topside control, you'll probably have to get a matching pack and topside. Since you have no way of knowing now if the topside is bad or if it's the pack, it may be best just to replace both and get it over with.

Appears the heater works, at least somewhat. That buzzing sure is annoying though. I turned the spa on this evening and dropped in a temp probe into the water. It warmed it up from 46F to 54F in ~1hr. Then next time I came out to check on it, the whole system was off. Eventually I realized it was due to the timer, which looks like this:



After setting the correct time (I spin the inner white dial so the arrow in the top right corner points to the correct time, right?) on the timer and playing around with the little switches, the heater turned on again. Also since it was dark outside, I did notice that each of the top-side switches does have a light that turns on/off with the switch. Maybe the whole thing isn't dead after all.

What's the recommended settings for the timer, besides being on non-peak service times?

Sorry, I would've replied sooner, but internet here was down ALL DAY yesterday! Good to hear that at least some of your stuff works.

As far as the timer, if you plan on using the tub often, probably the best way to do it is this:

Get the tub to the temperature you prefer running the pump and heater continuously. Once you get to the temp. you like, leave the temperature control alone. Set the timer to run for 2 hours a day, twice daily about 12 hours apart (ex. from noon to 2 pm, and from midnight to 2 am). Check after a couple of cycles to see if it's getting hot enough. If so, leave it alone. If not, set the timer to 2.5 hours for each cycle. Then, when you're ready to use the tub, just switch to 'no timer' and the topside buttons should control it however you want.

Instead of doing 2 2 hour cycles, you can split it to 4 1 hour cycles, or maybe even 8 30 minute cycles. Just be sure to circulate and filter the water plenty. You can tinker with the run times, and you'll find a cycle that works for you.

Hopefully I didn't make that sound too confusing, if so let me know and I'll try to reword it.

Take care,
John