Today was the first visit to a new client whose pool is a few months old. Upon testing water chemistry, the pool had -0- chlorine even though their Pro Logic/Turbo Cell installation was set at 60% output and the filter pump is programmed to run 8 hours per day. The diagnostic menu on the control says the flow is okay and salt is at 3100 ppm. Water temp at 59º. When looking at the SWG, the installation doesn't look right to me. A pic is attached.

All of the installed Turbo Cell's I've encountered have had the water go through the flow sensor, then through the tapered end of the Turbo Cell, and out the "blunt" end. In this case, it is the opposite. Water flows through the blunt end of the Turbo Cell, out the tapered end, then through the flow sensor, and then out the return lines. Does it matter which end the water flows through the cell as long as the flow switch is happy?

I really need the input of someone who has experience with these so that I can advise the client. Thanks for all your help!

The Hayward manual shows it installed both ways (page #13, diagram #1 & #3).

It is very easy for improper water chemistry to produce the results you describe. Both low CYA levels and algae can cause FC to read at zero most of the time, even when the cell is working perfectly. Algae can do this even when the water appears clear and algae free.

Yes, I had noticed diagram 3 when reviewing the manual earlier. I did not test for CYA while I was there (low on solution) but I would guess it was zero. All of the SWG pools I maintain had zero when I began servicing them (but not anymore!). I've just never seen a case where all the chlorine being generated was being lost because of low CYA, especially at such low water temps and the number of cloudy days we have had. Chlorinator output is currently at 60%. The water does have a slight cloudiness to it. I will recommend to the pool owner that we get the CYA up to reasonable levels and go from there.

Something else I will do the next time I visit is to force a new cycle of chlorine generation at the controller and capture the water exiting the wall return using a water bottle to check output chlorine levels.

Much appreciate the input!

I thought that chlorine production tapered off significantly in cold water.

Since this customer is new to you I'd recommend pulling the thing off line and cleaning the cell, or at least visually inspecting it if you haven't already. The service light on the Goldline is pretty good about letting you know when something needs to be done, but I always pull a new customer's cell just for good measure, along with checking their impeller for debris, condition of filter media, etc.

If the water is slightly cloudly, then it is almost certain that you have an infestation.

Possible causes of little or no free chlorine residual
- Aqua Rite® switch in OFF position.
- Desired Output % adjustment setting is too low.
- Low stabilizer (Cyanuric Acid).
- Filter pump time too short (8 hours for average size pools, more for large pools)
- Salt level too low (below 2400 ppm, Check Salt LED on).
- Salt level too high (High Salt LED on).
- Very warm pools increase chlorine demand--increase Output %, or filter run time.
- Cold water (below 50ºF) causes Aqua Rite to stop generating (Generating LED flashing).
- Excessive scaling on cell.
- High level of Nitrogen in pool water.
- "Yellow Out" or similar treatment recently used. Some yellow algae treatments will
use chlorine at a very high rate and deplete the residual free chlorine. Manually shock
the pool if indicated in the directions on the algae treatment. It still may be a matter of
days before the pool returns to "normal" and chlorine tests will show the desired 1-
3ppm free chlorine reading.

This from Goldline's Manual. Just to be PC!