Chlorine demand---in Kentucky---5 times in 4.5 years

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Not at all that is to be expected with little to no CYA in there to hold it That's why you need to go ahead and raise your CYA Now to prevent those drops.

That level is much better though and much safer for swimming. You can also check a pH Now if you'd like too because the FC is now below 10ppm so the pH reading should again be accurate.

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Once the CYA is adjust appropriately it won't do that as bad so just watch it closely and adjust the chlorine when needed to maintain no lower than 3 but no higher than 10ppm. Also What is the CL that you are abbreviating? Because I see FC which should be Chlorine so I'm not sure what the CL is?
 
I just went and bought some CYA myself and here is what the one I got looks like. There are a lot of different brands but as long as it says 100% Cyanuric Acid it will be fine.

Also like I mentioned earlier although more expensive the Liquid CYA will have an immediate effect on raising your CYA where as the powder could take up to a week to register the higher levels. I actually added some powder form earlier today myself, and it is actually already registering in there, so it just depends, but please know that it Can take up to a week to register and if so your chlorine will continue to drop quickly during that time too.
 

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Pool is looking great. The tf-100 test kit is great. I am registering some cya now. I added 2 lbs. its at About 20, waiting for a few days to see if I will get any higher readings before I add. CH level steady at 3-5 ppm
CC level at .5. All other numbers looking good as of now. We swam over the weekend and I added some salt pellets about an hour before, Water never felt better. I am gonna check all levels first thing in the morning and will post my readings.
Finding this site has been such a blessing.
Thank you
 
Hello,

That sounds awesome Jim. You'll have it clean before you know it. I suspect all the stabilizer that you added the other day is probably all registering by now.

If you are seeing 20ppm CYA. If you bought the 4 lb container of powder cyanuric acid the other day as suggested, you can go ahead and add the other 2 pounds left in that 4 pound container that you bought Now. Adding those 2 pounds should put you at about 35ppm, so you'll need to check your CYA level once registered, and probably need to buy another container because you're going to need a little out of a 2nd container to get you where you need to be so your chlorine will hold better in there. Anyway, once you get the other 2 pounds in, and take a reading, holler back as us, and we can assist you further on how much of the new container you'll need to add still in order to bring you up to 40ppm CYA. You'll want to get your CYA at 40-50ppm No higher. That's the Goal we are working towards.

But we also as I said before don't want to overshoot your CYA level because once it's in the only way to get it out is to drain the water :( so lol we don't want you to have to do that at all, so we will keep slowly climbing the ladder, adding a little at a time, until we're sure what it's going to do to your levels, and we'll do it that way until we get it where it needs to be, without going over. Your chlorine levels will should start holding much better for you because of the CYA protection you're adding. Have a wonderful day and keep up the great job.
 
BTW, I meant to reply earlier about your auto-cover.
I keep my auto-cover closed much of the time; it keeps heat in, reduces FC loss, and keeps flying dirt and bird droppings out of the pool. Based on a recommendation from Chem Geek, I open it for about 2 hours sometime during the day to let it breathe and let the UV rays get to the water. I also open it for rain unless it is really windy. Sometimes I even open it so we can go swimming!
 
Good stuff guys, thanks!
cya still registering at around 20. Adding two lbs today. I will check back with readings in 4 days or so. Water looks crystal clear. Chlorine level staying between 5-7ppm. I want to see that drop a bit before I post readings. And watch the stabilizer work. Thanks for all your help.
 
Hello Jim,

That's why we're here we love to teach our method, watch the progress, plus hear/see the success stories.

As I mentioned the other day, To get you from 20ppm to at least 40ppm. It will actually require around 2 and 1/2 pounds of stabilizer, but since you have 2 pounds left in the container from the last add, just add it, and then you'll need to buy one more container, so we can get your CYA up to 40-50ppm, (no higher). This will give you a lot better holding ability on your chlorine levels, so you're not having to add as often.

Your FC numbers look great now don't lower them any. Because when your CYA level hits 40ppm your chlorine target will be MIN 3ppm, Target 5ppm. Plus it is usually recommended maintaining it at (during the hot Summer especially), at 1 or 2 ppm more than Target, so you'll have a cushion to keep from dropping below the min.

I'm in KY too and running a 40ppm, with a FC of 6-7ppm has worked well for me this Summer. At least the higher 40ppm CYA will prevent you from having to add as often to maintain it there.

We shall soon succeed because you are doing an awesome job. GO YOU!!!! You're doing great!! :goodjob: Have a wonderful day. :)
 
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Ok guys, I've been testing everyday just to get acclimated to the tf-100 test kit. I think I'm getting the hang of it.
readings today are as follows

CL-7-10ppm (holding much better since raised CYA level)
PH-7.2 (but understanding that's probably not correct because chlorine level is so high)
FC-17ppm
CC-0-0.5ppm
TA-80-90
Cya-40ppm (used 5lbs to get it there)
(I'm understanding that test much better now)
CH-500ppm

I put chlorine tabs in two skimmers twice a week.
Haven't shocked since last Sunday.
Pool walls look clean, been brushing them down every few days
Water is clear
Been putting salt pellets in water everyday that we plan on swimming
 
Its good that your pH is where it is since your calcium is so high. Keeping the pH on the low normal side (7.2) is fine and helps prevent scaling from the high calcium.
Why are you adding salt pellets? I'm unclear as to if you have a SWG or are just using it for softening the water up a bit?

Caution against putting pucks in the skimmer- if you're not running it 24/7 the pucks acidify the standing water in the skimmer and then when the pump turns on it sends a very low pH to the pump and there is evidence that this is hard on the gaskets and equipment. IF you're going to use pucks (and we don't encourage it on a normal day to day basis) please get a floater.

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I am Just for softening the water up a bit. Makes water feel great!

i am running 24/7 with timer and variable speed motor. I will stop using pucks if you guys guide me in that direction. I was always told by the pool company to shock every week and keep pucks in both skimmers. Now that I'm beginning to understand water chemistry, I will change my ways how ever I need to.
Thanks so much for all the help.
 
Hi Jim,
Yeah, that CYA test just takes a little practice to figure it out sometimes. A lot of people have problems at 1st reading it, but it's great to hear that you're understanding it better now. Yes, It's amazing what a little CYA can do for helping the chlorine to hold, isn't it?

Everything sounds good. You have good holding chlorine, .5CC, clear water.

So it sounds like you may be ready to attempt an overnight OCLT test (If you haven't already),to see if you pass so you can start bringing that chlorine down some.

Are you aware of how to do an OCLT? If not Here's what you do. (1st thing is don't add any pellets today at all because I'm not certain but I know if a person has a SWG they have too turn it off to test OCLT and I suspect the salt pellets that you are using could alter the results too?

Anyway, Tonight before going to bed check your FC and CC levels (or at least 30 mins after adding chlorine, but you said you've not needed to add for a few days so I suspect you shouldn't need to add tonight either),and document them.

Then in the AM before the sun begins to hit the pool, Again check your FC and CC levels.

There are 3 criteria you need to met in order to pass OCLT
1) An overnight FC loss of <1.0ppm

2)A CC of 0.5ppm or less

3) A Crystal clear pool-(You're already meeting this one) so 1 down, and 2 to go :).
Here's the TFP directions link if you need it http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/136-perform-the-overnight-fc-chlorine-loss-test-oclt

If you do met all 3 of those criteria YOU PASS OCLT!!!.

Once you pass OCLT that will show that any algae that was present has hopefully all been killed off. Then you can start letting your FC level naturally drop down to 3-5ppm and MAINTAIN at that level never allowing the FC to drop below 3ppm to help prevent another algae bloom. (I generally run mine 1-2ppm above Target just to prevent it from dropping below minimum from the sun's depletion. etc. So instead of running yours say at 3-5ppm, Target it at 6- 7ppm).

The 3-5ppm is your Minimum and Target ranges for your 40ppm CYA per the Chlorine/CYA chart. http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock

I definitely agree with Skippy about not using the pukes routinely (Using them when you go on vacation or something is fine, but routinely at TFP we do not recommended daily use because they add so many unnecessary things to your clear water) The ones you have as long as you seal them in the container good will last a long time.

You are correct, that is possible with your high FC that the pH is possibly not correct, so you really don't need to check pH, or anything other than FC and CC, again until your FC level drops below 10ppm. Just save your reagents for now. Once you pass OCLT and your FC levels drops to below 10ppm then you can retest everything and we will adjust as needed at that time. Good luck on OCLT (I suspect you'll pass with no problem). Have a wonderful night. :).
 
Congrats on passing OCLT Jim.

You could attempt to aerate the pH up, and may end up not having to add any borax at all :). The TA at 80 is fine, and if keep your pH at 7.4-7.8ppm that's usually the idea level for swimmer comfort, as the pH is less acidic at that level. So unless there is some reason you just want to increase the TA higher or add additional borates to your water, I'd recommend just letting the aeration increase the pH only.
Again congrats, and well done Jim. Have a nice day :).
 
I understand that weekly shocking is not necessary. Not using pucks any longer. Just was concerned that PH was too low. I'm understanding how to better care for my pool thanks to you guys. Feeling really good about moving forward. I will open cover to aerate and see if if PH doesn't increase in the next week or so. Thanks for all the help. I will post numbers again in a few days. Jim brink
 
Jim,

Sorry, I actually need to change my suggestion in comment #56, but wanted to do it in a separate post, instead of Editing the other post, as to ensure it didn't get overlooked.

After again reviewing your numbers for today. I suggest you Don't attempt to use aeration or add anything to increase your pH level. (Although it is generally suggested, I actually overlooked that your extremely high CH level has raised by 200ppm more since your last check). The recommended CH range is 250-350, and you are currently at 700ppm which was caused from all the Cal Hypo you added before you got here. I would suggest that for the sake of your pool/equipment that you consider possibly doing a 50% drain and refill to attempt to get that level down to a more appropriate level. This is something that since you'll soon be closing the pool can possibly be done with the Winter draining, as long as you keep the pH level lower until then to keep the scaling potential lower, as well.

****(others with more experience may offer you other advice on this, and if so, certainly take their suggestions over mine, but otherwise, with the continued increase I think it would be in your best interest to get it reduced, as soon as possible, to prevent any damage to your pool or your equipment).

So as far as your pH you'll want to Leave/Keep your pH at the lower end around the 7.2ppm level because you still have that 700 CH level that with a higher pH level can cause you to have a greater risk for scaling. So, just leave the pH on the lower end instead of attempting to increase it to decrease those chances. I hope this helps. Have a nice day :).
 

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