SpectraLight, EcoPump, Zeosand, New plaster, etc...

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Yes, you've wired it for High only. The instructions call for a 4 wire setup.
EcoPump Wiring Instructions:

For the EcoPump EP-6 and the GE 15132-
Turn off all power. Set your dipswitches to 220v settings.
220v- Wire your two hot wires to the two TIMER contacts.
-Wire your two TIMER contacts to COM and COM 2 using the enclosed jumper wires. (See the link for the pictures of 220v.)
-Wire A (low) to NC.
-Wire L1 (High) to NO.
-Wire L2 (Hot) to Com 2.
-Wire Ground to your Ground wire.

That's the short version. I just lost the long version....Will redo when I can.

Tom

Timer PDF http://www.jascoproducts.com/timer/QuickStartGuide.pdf
 

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Notes:
1. Do all wiring to code, with the POWER OFF. Any doubts, CALL AN ELECTRICIAN. DO NOT BYPASS SAFETY.
2. On a 220 V setup, wire both hot wires to the timer contacts. DO NOT BYPASS THE TIMER CONTACTS. (I was told to do that, and fried my 15132.) Run the jumpers from the two timer contacts to COM and COM 2.
3. Set dipswitches to the 220V settings in the instructions.
4. This setup is for always on low, timer on high. (SPDT) My setup is 23 hours low speed, 1 hour high for my Polaris 360, which is rated to run without a booster pump. I recommend it.
5. Your motor is, at the moment, the most efficient two speed on the market. (AO Smith B2983.) Power use on low speed is not a huge concern. Continuous circulation- continuous filtration- better water quality. if you want to not have it on continuously, you will need to change the wiring.
6. Your timer box can act as a bus bar for other 220 V loads- Com and Com 2 are available as continous power. You can also time other loads, as well- your instruction manual has different examples. (Just stay within the load limits of your circuit.)



Tom
 
TGMD - The box is wired 220. I have the same type of timer you have except it has an lcd screen instead of a mechanical. It is all wired up, according to the diagram they sent (not impressed with their instructions), and I have the two leads coming from the breaker going into the timer, some jumpers running to the two different com ports and then the two lead wires and ground going to the pump. The two leads going to L1 and L2. I don't have anything connected to the port labeled "A."

Bama - I have a an ep-6 and this ge timer (http://www.poolexpress.com/ge-pool-pump-timer).
 
Yes, your timer is the 15132- the wiring is identical. Rewire it according to my instructions. Let me know if you have any problems. There are 4 lugs on the pump- you missed one. (A, L1, L2, and Ground. You missed wiring A to NC.)

Tom

P.S. Neither the GE nor the EcoPump instructions are very helpful in terms of wiring them to each other; I even contacted EcoPump, and was told to bypass the 2nd timer contact. I did, set the switches at 220, and proceeded to fry the box. (An experienced (20 + yr) pool equipment installer couldn't interpret the instructions, either.)
 
Thanks for the help. Just finished wiring it and its working! You are right....the ecopump and ge timer instructions were not helpful at all. Is there a way for the timer to turn the entire pump on or off? Do I have to control that with the breaker? What do you do in the winter?
 
You're welcome. I've only had it since June. Since our winters are mild, I was just going to leave it on- it's easier than starting up a dirty pool. As for wiring it for complete shutdown, I'm not sure you can; you might need another on/off switch in the circuit. But yes, you could just use your breaker; that's what I do. Really, though, since it is optimal at 24/7 operation, why not just keep it clean all year? The usage cost is low enough to justify it. ( Maybe some clever electrician will let us know if it's possible to wire your 15132 with an on/off variant.)

Tom
 
I thought of running it year round since it is so inexpensive. I also have a pool heater. Where would I connect the heater when we want to heat the pool? That won't happen often but it would be nice to have the option.

George
 
That's just a single timer so it can't both, start/stop the pump and switch speeds. You'll need a ganged timer to do that. You could buy another timer and gang it with the one you have and do it. Or you could buy a timer designed for that task in one box.
 

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There are literally tens of thousands of pool owners on this forum, The PoolForum and some other websites that have crystal clear outdoor residential pools without the use of UV, ozone, algaecide, mineral ion systems, supplemental oxidation systems, clarifiers, floculants, etc. Bacteria double in population in 15-60 minutes in ideal conditions which is usually far slower than the turnover rate that is typically hours. Furthermore, most bacteria grow on pool surfaces and NEVER get circulated. If not killed quickly by chlorine, they form biofilms and become even more resistant to getting killed. Also, a UV system will not prevent person-to-person transmission of disease in a short-term release incident, though realistically that's more of an issue for commercial/public high bather-load pools.

Also, though UV can reduce chloramines, it can increase trihalomethanes such as chloroform. The UV in sunlight has a different spectrum that may produce less side effects while still producing powerful hydroxyl radicals for superior oxidation from a slow breakdown of chlorine. For residential pools, UV is most useful for indoor pools since the lack of sunlight usually requires some form of supplemental oxidation be it UV, ozone or non-chlorine shock (MPS) to oxidize bather waste that is otherwise slow to get oxidized by chlorine (or that form combined chlorine).

As for zeolite, the claim from manufacturers of reducing chloramines is complete hogwash. Yes, they absorb ammonia, but in a chlorinated pool any ammonia is converted to monochloramine in a minute or two and the resulting monochloramine is NOT absorbed by the zeolite nor is the equilibrium release of ammonia from monochloramine fast enough to make any difference. This was shown in some preliminary experiments for NSF where there was no reduction in monochloramine using zeolite.
 
Richard; you raise valid points; however, UV systems are not meant for primary disinfection; they are meant for supplemental disinfection; as Jason as pointed out, the main body of water still needs disinfecting while NOT being circulated. So the whole primary sanitizer argument is a bit of a straw man. As for the benefits of solar UV, it still doesn't help with algae blooms or CC; if it did, sunny pools wouldn't face those problems, which we know is not the case. And yes, you are absolutely correct- there are literally tens of thousands of pool owners, who, fortunate enough to know about this website, utilize BBB to their great advantage; what you and the others have done here is remarkable. However, there are hundreds of thousands, if not more, who know nothing of this site, (I know-I was one of them) for whom the idea of a supplemental sanitizer like UV is very attractive. I suspect we'll be seeing more of these systems as time passes, their passive nature being highly appealing- i.e., " if I forget to check the pool today I've still got something backing me up so the kids won't jump into a swamp tommorrow." Meanwhile, the studies showing the efficacy of medium weight UV for disinfection are on Google; they will probably convince quite a few people that UV is the way to go. So you are right- properly run, an outdoor pool should not need a UV system-properly run being the key.(Meanwhile, there are videos like this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8zADu7ao0Gw Marketing?- definitely. Effective?-definitely.
As for Zeosand, you're looking at the wrong end of the marketing- who cares about ammonia? The appeal is the particulate size and the first pass filtration rate with the ease of sand! ( The zeobrite xtreme people have a video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fDy4vehRcW8 demonstration that's pretty compelling; - the data would appear to back their claims regarding filtration, if not ammonia sequestration.)

Tom

P.S. As for UV, I suppose a plate count study is in order one of these days...
 
Except for inactivating Crypto, which is highly unlikely to be introduced into a residential pool, the supplemental disinfection from UV (or ozone, for that matter) is unnecessary. As for THMs, the risk is low and I only bring it up because it's a matter of current debate for medium-pressure UV for commercial/public pools.

If you want insurance against algae blooms if the chlorine gets too low for whatever reason, using 50 ppm Borates would be at least as effective, mostly because it is in the bulk pool water.

If someone wants supplemental oxidation for the greatest oxidation and disinfection, then boron-doped electrodes producing hydroxyl radicals as in Oxineo® from Adamant would be the most effective, but such systems are quite expensive and more appropriate for high bather-load pools. It's more common to find UV, ozone, and especially saltwater chlorine generators.

If someone already has a sand filter and wants finer filtration, they can Add DE to a Sand Filter as one alternative. Zeolite is not bad, but if you search for posts from real users you will find that some report the sand getting crushed with the dust getting back into the pool or having other problems such as not clearing pools any better than cartridge filters (and not nearly as good as DE) so the results have been mixed, though that may depend on the specific brand since the quality of zeolite varies depending on where it is obtained (mined).
 
My own experience regarding zeosand; not bad,about the same particulate density as DE under the "pool light spectrometer". I want to try the ZeoBrite next, and see if there's any detectable difference. As far as UV goes, I suspect the world's going in that direction regardless; the "green" movement will come to the pool world as well.
 
tgmb said:
As far as UV goes, I suspect the world's going in that direction regardless; the "green" movement will come to the pool world as well.
Click to expand...
UV does not replace chlorine so I don't see how that's any more "green". Until a fast-acting residual disinfectant in the bulk pool water is found, then chlorine will still be in use. Even German DIN 19643 uses chlorine. For residential pools, there are already numerous halogen-free systems available, but they do not kill pathogens quickly (or in some cases, at all).
 
Green in the sense of the average pool owner. There are about 10 million pools in the U.S.; how many of those pool owners perform regular, comprehensive testing of their pools, and have a thorough understanding of its chemistry and operation? As you said, tens of thousands- i.e., 0.1-.3%, roughly. You have to think in terms of the other 99.9% of the pool owning public. Their pool turns green from time to time, Leslie's is costing them a regular fortune, they are dumping bucketloads of algaecide, shock, chlorine, clarifier, and flocculant into their pools, and then wondering what all that chemical cornucopia is doing to them and their kids.
So by green, I mean the modern desire to get away from things considered "chemical" (the google search "dangers of chlorine" results in over 2 million hits-I'm sure a few pool owners have made that search) and replace them with things considered "natural", i.e, U.V. Especially in light of media reports of chlorine resistant microorganisms- the risk-benefit ratio becomes questionable.
As such, the appeal of a product that offers to reduce "chemical" usage, and kill resistant microorganisms, while continuously sanitizing your pool, becomes obvious. So while I'm not arguing your chemistry- Although I still think an alternative sanitation pathway is a good idea- I am saying that we will be seeing more of these devices as time goes on, especially as more water purification systems and commercial pools incorporate them into their operations. (Palo Alto just incorporated UV into their wastewater treatment facility; New York is doing the same. The trickle-down effect is not to be underestimated.)
 
tgmb said:
Yes, you've wired it for High only. The instructions call for a 4 wire setup.
EcoPump Wiring Instructions:

For the EcoPump EP-6 and the GE 15132-
Turn off all power. Set your dipswitches to 220v settings.
220v- Wire your two hot wires to the two TIMER contacts.
-Wire your two TIMER contacts to COM and COM 2 using the enclosed jumper wires. (See the link for the pictures of 220v.)
-Wire A (low) to NC.
-Wire L1 (High) to NO.
-Wire L2 (Hot) to Com 2.
-Wire Ground to your Ground wire.

That's the short version. I just lost the long version....Will redo when I can.

Tom

Timer PDF http://www.jascoproducts.com/timer/QuickStartGuide.pdf
Click to expand...

I have mine wired this way and it apprears to be working fine... My question is does this wiring KEEP the "low" on or switch "low" off when "high speed" is turned on? I don't have the directions on me but I think I read not to have both low and high running at the same time.

Thank you,
Gerry
 

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