Florida Keys OB pool build. Mud bed.

[Jm13004]

Hello all,
After many months of doing research and reading a ton of threads on this awesome forum, I'm finally starting construction on our new pool. The two driving points for me as an OB were savings and quality control. After reading several other OB threads I figured I would give it a go. The biggest challenge on this project will be the water table we deal with in the Keys.....anything below 3 ft will be affected by the coastal tide levels so it's a real challenge.

Pool will be 10' x 20' rectangle 3.5'-5'. There will be a bench across deep end with 4 "therapy" jets, 3 returns, 1 skimmer, 1 vac line, and 2 microbrite lights. Fiberglass was an option but I would really like to tile the entire pool so I'm doing Shotcrete. My labor is free so why not LOL. Hopefully, I don't make to many mistakes along the way. I've already started project so I'll post a few pics shortly to catch up to my current stage of the build.

 

[JJ_Tex]

Awesome. With the water table situation, I'm assuming you have fully researched hydrostatic valves to keep your pool from popping out of the ground when you do not have water in it.

I'm hoping you give us lots of pictures of your build along the way, and even better if you want to fly several of the experts to the keys for some in-person advice/key lime pie.

 

[Jm13004]

JJ
Key lime pie will be available but it's a work for pie trade off....LOL. Definitely have to install a hydrostatic valve.......more on the hydrostatic water pressure below. The following is my progress from the dig and auger piles. The auger piles are not to support the pool (it's in solid limestone rock), but to hold it from moving/popping out from hydrostatic pressure/storm surge etc. The little pump in the deep end is the key to everything....without it, I have 4 ft of seawater in the hole. Almost didn't build this pool because of the water table.

 

[kimkats]

Lets get this dig started!! What tile are you thinking of using?

 

[setsailsoon]

JM, You're a couple weeks ahead of me and mine is up the coast in Palm City. Good luck and I'll be checking in with your pool along the way!

Chris

 

[Jm13004]

Hello all. A little more progress on the build.
Kimkats , Thanks for the encouragement. Here's a pic of the tile I'll be using. It's a 1"x1" porcelain tile. Sadly, I won't be doing an all tile pool due to water table issues but it should still look nice. Leaning toward River Rok for the pool finish....not final.


Setsail, Good luck with your build......been following your thread.

Here's an update where I'm currently at.....we got the shell formed and shot (shotcrete). Everything went pretty well. The shotcrete guys are artisans..... lots of little tricks they use to shape and form the straight walls. The pool is 3" bigger in each direction but I'm not complaining. Just more swimming area LOL. I used galvanized rebar to try and prevent future corrosion. I tried to "water cure" the shell after the shotcrete was finished by using a cheap timer off Amazon with a rotating sprinkler and set it to run 10 minutes every hour for 4 days straight . This allowed the pool shell to stay constantly damp. It worked pretty well.

Tomorrow, Im going to start backfilling ( it's been 13 days since shotcrete was completed) I'm going to try and compact in 12" lifts. Trying to prevent settlement later on. After that is plumbing. I'm looking forward to seeing the piles of dirt go back in the hole.....the yard is a mess LOL.

 

[ajw22]

Typically plumbing for returns are roughed in before shotcrete.

Where are you putting lights in the pool?

 

[Jm13004]

AJ, Here they typically dig out your return locations during shotcrete . Afterwards, you plumb your jets and pack those holes with hydraulic cement. The return on the step I had to place during shotcrete because of the total concrete thickness.
I have 2 "holes" for my microbrite lights on the wall against the house....you just can't see them in the pic.

 

[setsailsoon]

JM,

Nice update and progress. We're almost doing the pools in parallel! We've taken out 5-16 yd loads and still have dirt everywhere with the pool about half dug!

Chris

 

[kimkats]

LOVE that tile! What color of grout are you going to use? They should have grout sticks for you to play with to see what color you like the best. White will make each tile pop while a light gray will help them blend together more. Both are very pretty!

Here is thread we put together to help pick out plaster colors:

Pool Finish and Color Viewing Room...PICTURES & details only please

This is our attempt at having one place that we can view the finished product of various Plaster/Pebble/Quartz/Vinyl/FG/etc. pool finishes. Simply attach a good pic looking down at the steps and another one looking at the deep end to share how it looks at different depths. Make sure to share the...

www.troublefreepool.com

Here is your set of links. It is a lot of info take your time and go over it a couple/few times:
The first set is all about what to do and ask about to get a great plaster job. The second set is all about how to care for your pool after you get the plaster.

Plaster links:
Ten Guidelines for Quality Pool Plaster Best one of all
All Plaster Finishes Should Last 20 Years
Not All Color Pigments are Good for Pools How to pick a good color for plaster.
A Plastering 'Watch List' | Professional Watershaping | Watershapes
Trouble Free Pool
Trouble Free Pool

Pool care links:
Print these out:
Pool School - Basic Pool Care Schedule
Pool School - Recommended Levels

Bookmark these:
Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals
Trouble Free Pool
Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

Now is also a good time to ask what test kit your PB will be providing so we can fill in any holes.

 

[AQUA~HOLICS]

I used galvanized rebar to try and prevent future corrosion.

Did you consider fiberglass rebar (GFRP) glass-fiber reinforced polymer for its ability not to rust in moist conditions?

 

[ajw22]

Did you consider fiberglass rebar (GFRP) glass-fiber reinforced polymer for its ability not to rust in moist conditions?

What is the cost difference between using standard rebar, galvanized rebar, and GFRP?

 

[AQUA~HOLICS]

GFRD has more cost than standard rebar, but compared to galvanized and coated rebar it’s comparable if not lower in price.
I have not personally seen it used and it does have its drawbacks but is non corrosive and #3 bar is rated as #4 bar in flat work.
Biggest drawback currently is it cannot be bent on site so the product is pre engineered with 90s, it also can be used in conjunction with standard rebar for straight runs.
Just one more way the industry is getting away from metal products in the construction of swimming pools.

 

[wireform]

Are the special rebar ties or are the standard one used. Rusting problems usually present themselves as the wire stick out so to me that's a more important problem to solve if there's a non rusting option.

 

[AQUA~HOLICS]

Plastic cable ties or standard steel tie wire can be used.
Pig tails if not pushed back will be the first thing water will find.

 

[Jm13004]

Kimkats- Thank you for the links! That will be big help.
Aqua-holic- So I used galvanized rebar when I built my house last year. My engineer would not allow fiberglass rebar......I believe it was because of certain testing which was not approved yet in Florida..... I may be wrong.
It's pricey but for the pool I didn't even compare pricing because I knew I was going to use it.
For the house , I used galvanized wire. I didn't do it on the pool because I couldn't source in time. Those ties are pretty much centered on 8" thick walls and 10" thick floor so I'm not overly concerned. Concrete is 5000 psi.
Setsail- Your build is looking great! Waaaay bigger project than I'm doing LOL.

 

[Jm13004]

Small update on the pool. I was able to get the plumbing done. The jet venturi manifold for the bench took an embarrassing amount of time for me to build but I'm pretty happy with the end result. I'm trying to use my jets without a blower. The vertical pipe which is capped off will be a Hartford loop. I'm not quite sure yet where the intake will be yet so it's just a capped riser. The goal is to hide it with landscaping. I'm using the Intelliflo 3 pump w/ relays (011078) so I can have semi automation. My setup is pretty simple....no spa or heater.



I have a question on my plumbing. My MD is 2.5". Should I keep it at 2.5" all the way to the pump inlet. I have to T the other 2 -2" intakes (vac and skimmer) into this branch as well. The other option is to reduce it to 2" at the upright 90 and that way everything is at 2" approaching pump (pic below for that setup). Not sure if that would reduce flow too much. I will be using a 2 way valve for each line. Below is a pic of the second option and my plan on plumbing layout.
Thx

 

[ajw22]

Why are you putting in a rinky dink tiny filter?

 

[Jm13004]

What would you suggest? My pool is 5500 gallons. The Pentair CC200 is rated at 154 GPM. My jets full bore will be around 60 GPM.

 

[ajw22]

I would get the CCP240 or 320.

Flow GPM is not a consideration. Any of them can handle it.

The larger the filter the less you need to clean it. And a large filter will be better at cleaning the pool after a storm hits the Keys.

Clean & Clear® Plus Cartridge Filters

The Clean & Clear Plus filter delivers commercial-grade performance that keeps pools clean and clear, day in and day out. Find out where to buy here.

www.pentair.com