Help! Pool Mystery

3 days is very short for water that’s green. You may not have any chlorine loss depending on how you are testing it. The OTO test or the pool store aren’t accurate enough for that.
I have my own test kit (TL 100) that I have been relying on. Both pool stores have come back with different numbers every time. I don't give them much credit when it comes to testing my water. lol.
I will start back at the beginning with the slam and go from there.
 
PS, DO NOT trust the pool store tests for numbers. Especially CYA. They can be wildly inaccurate. I’ve seen it over and over again. So has just about everyone expert on here.

They are more accurate with FC and pH, but even then that can be off.
 
I have my own test kit (TL 100) that I have been relying on. Both pool stores have come back with different numbers every time. I don't give them much credit when it comes to testing my water. lol.
I will start back at the beginning with the slam and go from there.
Great! Keep us posted! I’m looking forward to reading and seeing the progress!
 
Not necessarily. If your CYA reading is incorrect and on the low side, you very well may not be adding enough FC to actually do anything. Are you 110% sure your CYA is 40?

As a test, you could raise your FC to 24 for a night, after adding, scrub scrub scrub your pool with a brush. Keep the pump running nonstop. Check FC in morning.

Also, if it were something like mustard algae, it can be super resistant to chlorine.
I have a TL 100 test kit and have been doing the CYA test using that kit. So I assume it's pretty accurate. I do worry about raising my chlorine to such high levels. Our pool liner is older ( not sure how many years as we have only lived here for 3 years) and I am a bit worried that the higher levels will be harmful to the liner.

We had mustard algae the first year we were here. It took forever to figure that out. I know what it looks like and what it is. This is something totally different.
 
PS, DO NOT trust the pool store tests for numbers. Especially CYA. They can be wildly inaccurate. I’ve seen it over and over again. So has just about everyone expert on here.

They are more accurate with FC and pH, but even then that can be off.
Yes! I noticed that too since working with 2 different stores and my numbers always come back different. lol
 
I have a TL 100 test kit and have been doing the CYA test using that kit. So I assume it's pretty accurate. I do worry about raising my chlorine to such high levels. Our pool liner is older ( not sure how many years as we have only lived here for 3 years) and I am a bit worried that the higher levels will be harmful to the liner.

We had mustard algae the first year we were here. It took forever to figure that out. I know what it looks like and what it is. This is something totally different.
You shouldn’t have to worry too much as long as you stay at 24 and have CYA in your pool. CYA helps protect the liner and parts.

But you’ve already said you’re going to slam. Good choice!
 
Just a quick update. I put in Floc yesterday right before putting out this thread. (On the recommendation of pool store) When I went out this morning, I could actually see the bottom. It was completely covered in yellow/green. I vacuumed to waste the best I could. It is much clearer but still pretty green since I vacuumed and stirred the water. I brushed and add chlorine to slam.
 

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Just a quick update. I put in Floc yesterday right before putting out this thread. (On the recommendation of pool store) When I went out this morning, I could actually see the bottom. It was completely covered in yellow/green. I vacuumed to waste the best I could. It is much clearer but still pretty green since I vacuumed and stirred the water. I brushed and add chlorine to slam.
Don’t run water through your filter with floc in the water. It’ll ruin it. Vacuum out as much as possible.
 

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I brushed and add chlorine to slam.
Now is the critical time to follow the SLAM Process. Be advised it may take more than one vacuum to waste to get all the floc out. Once you are reedy to let water go back through the filter, use your TF-100 (or Taylor K-2006C) test kit to maintain the proper SLAM FC level as noted on the FC/CYA Levels. Maintain that elevated FC level until you pass all 3 SLAM criteria. If you follow the SLAM Process page carefully it will work.
 
Thanks! I didn't. I followed the directions. :)
So you’re at a tricky point. You have found TFP and are using some of the tried and true TFP methods.
But you’re also visiting the pool store and using chemicals that TFP would absolutely not recommend (floc.)

I’d encourage you to pick one method and source of expertise and stick with it.
It doesn’t have to be the TFP way, but I don’t think you’ll have any success using the pool store methods.
 
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You shouldn’t have to worry too much as long as you stay at 24 and have CYA in your pool. CYA helps protect the liner and parts.
This is not TFP advice. Driving FC above the FC/CYA chart for SLAM risks damaging equipment and makes it unsafe to swim. The only exception is for a mustard algae treatment which raises to a higher level for a specific time interval.

Stick to the FC/CYA chart.
 
This is not TFP advice. Driving FC above the FC/CYA chart for SLAM risks damaging equipment and makes it unsafe to swim. The only exception is for a mustard algae treatment which raises to a higher level for a specific time interval.

Stick to the FC/CYA chart.
If you read the context of what was being said, the OP was talking about high chlorine levels damaging the “older liner”. All I was saying is per the chart, 24 is is the level for mustard algae at their CYA level of 40. This would only be for 24 hours after the successful completion of a SLAM and only for mustard algae, which is exceptionally rare. And with the CYA in the water, it does help protect the liner (from bleaching) as noted by the testing done by the admins and experts, notably Richard (chem geek) on this site. I was not insinuating to raise FC to 24. I apologize I didn’t spell all that out in a single post, I assume that information was inferred by following the post chain.
 
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We had mustard algae the first year we were here. It took forever to figure that out. I know what it looks like and what it is. This is something totally different.
I apologize I didn’t spell all that out in a single post, I assume that information was inferred by following the post chain.
Fair enough, but there was no indication of mustard algae. So the advice to raise above the SLAM chart doesn't make sense. And even if it did, you point out yourself it should only be done at the end of the SLAM process, which is not where we are.
 
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So you’re at a tricky point. You have found TFP and are using some of the tried and true TFP methods.
But you’re also visiting the pool store and using chemicals that TFP would absolutely not recommend (floc.)

I’d encourage you to pick one method and source of expertise and stick with it.
It doesn’t have to be the TFP way, but I don’t think you’ll have any success using the pool store methods.
You are right! I am finding that everyone has an opinion and a way and they are ALL different. So much information is contradicting and confusing. So yes. I am trying to figure out who the real experts are and which ways really work.
 
Okay..so update. My pool is more blue but cloudy. I am keeping it at slam level according to TFP pool math app. I am now thinking I might have mustard algae. Is it possible to have both green algae and mustard? Could it be that upon opening, we had a lot of algae, pouring in chlorine to slam which reacted to copper and therefore turned the pool a different green? Got rid of the copper, and now got rid of most of the green algae and now we have mustard algae left? There are patches on the bottom of the pool that resemble sand. This is what I remember happening when we had mustard algae the first year. We also used Algecide 60 to get rid of it. If we do end up being mustard algae, I am guessing that is probably not the TFP way.
 
You're massively overthinking a bog standard green algae bloom. You got bad advice and chased imaginary copper and then you dumped in floc (and conveniently forgot to tell us) which made the water more milky, and dumped in cheap algaecide which made it foamy. Nothing that's happened indicates copper, or mustard algae, or anything other than regular old green algae.

If you follow the SLAM Process to the letter and until it is fully and completely finished then your water will be just fine.
 

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